are these cushions dead?

Hits 'em Hard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
what causes concern was the thud sound.
and noticing how much speed drops off after one or two rails. a three rail shot requires pretty hard hit.

I had thought the sound was from the smaller rails.. when I started getting frustrated with the lose of speed off the cushion I researched and found you tube videos describing that sound as one of the tell tail signs of dead rails.
I think angles re correct though.
yes , I can run a 9 ball rack..

but I ant figure out how a new table came with bad rails.if that is whats happening

Since you seem to be ignoring people, I’ll say it again too. Put the cue ball on the head string, shoot as hard as you can down table towards the foot string. And I mean as hard as you can while not applying any spin or bouncing the cue ball. Respond with your result.
 

icemanfred

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hits em hard
I didnt forget I had posted last post then went on to the table.
I got 3.5-3.75 lenghts

I did get one 4 lengths. I will try again in a while. may not have been as hard as I can. its seems hard to apply that much force knowing its only going into cushion.. I may be subconsciously holding back
 

Hits 'em Hard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hits em hard
I didnt forget I had posted last post then went on to the table.
I got 3.5-3.75 lenghts

I did get one 4 lengths. I will try again in a while. may not have been as hard as I can. its seems hard to apply that much force knowing its only going into cushion.. I may be subconsciously holding back

Got the break speed app? What’s your average break speed? You may think your table is slow because your stroke sucks. I don’t know, I’m just throwing ideas around now. Your first video shows nothing of value. You pretty much threw the ball at lag speed which will give the results you got.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
The WPA spec is 63½% of the ball diameter plus or minus 1% of the ball diameter.

That translates to 1.42875" ± .0225".

[So 1 3/8" (1.375") is too low, but 1 7/16" (1.4375") is within the range.]

Edit -- The CSI (BCAPL and USAPL) spec is 1 29/64" + 1/64" or - 1/32"

And you can throw them specs out the window when rails like Olhausens are made 1 1/2" thick....LOL those specs are for rails made 1 3/4" thick...LOL
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
this table is only 3 months old.
its a connelly san carlos
I have e mailed this video to connelly also.

seems I have to hit pretty firm to get a three rail shot.
I had assumed the noise was from this table having pretty narrow rails. But I am beginning to learn otherwise.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=df7wW7wMaaI&feature=youtu.be

The bounce of the cushions are fine, the sound effects are coming from the rails bolted to the slate, but the slate don't sound dampened to me, which comes as a result of the slate not being fully in contact with the frame of the table to deaden the vibrations of the balls bouncing off the cushions. Because that design of table is built cheap, the table frame panels are more than likely made from MDF, and has blocks mounted to that for the slate screws used to mount the slate, you have very little frame contact as it is. Then, because there's no level adjusters mounted in the bottom of the legs, therefore they just sit flat on the floor....a lot of installers, instead of pre leveling the frame of the table with shims under the feet, they choose to level the slates using shims to get it somewhat level on the unlevel frame which reaults in the slate being suspended above the frame of the table and the slates only contact with the frame is the shims the slates are sitting on....which creates the sound effect you're hearing, which in effect is the slate vibration because there's no damping effect help coming from the frame. Look under the frame of the table to see if youncan see a gap between the bottom side of the slate and the frame in all 4 corners first, then under the side pockets. The reason i mention the side pockets last is because the slate may be contacting both ends of the frame but no where else. I've set some of these tables up, along with some cheaper Olhausens that have had 3/4" frame sag in the middle ofnthe table meaning the slate was flat, but it was 3/4" above the frame sitting on shims....and had the same sound effects.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
The WPA spec is 63½% of the ball diameter plus or minus 1% of the ball diameter.

That translates to 1.42875" ± .0225".

[So 1 3/8" (1.375") is too low, but 1 7/16" (1.4375") is within the range.]

Edit -- The CSI (BCAPL and USAPL) spec is 1 29/64" + 1/64" or - 1/32"
When pool table manufactures build rails 1 1/2" thick, 1 3/8" nose height plays dog slow, 1 5/16" is the perfect nose height for those rails, but that also depends on if there is a cloth relief dado on the bottom of the rails for stapling the cloth to. If there's no cloth relief and the rail is going to bolt right down tight on the cloth, then the desired nose height is 1 1/4" and the cloth thickness will raise it up to where it needs to be to play right.


And just so everyone knows, and before anyone adds their lack of knowledge, thin rails and soft Accufast style cushions change the whole concept of the BCA rail specs, in which at the time they were published, rails were built to 1 3/4" thick with a formica cap, 1 11/16" if they were natural wood finished.
 
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realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I shouldn't have even given you people this much information because of my being banned the last time....for being argumentative because i KNOW what I'm talking about, and a bunch of you just feel inspired to argue with me like YOU know better, just because you THINK you do!!! Hell, i might get banned again right now...who knows!!!!!!
 

maha

from way back when
Silver Member
i hope not glen. just dont get into personal attacks with anyone just ignore them.
 
Tulips is what they are. Bunch of cry babies. You can’t get away from them these days. You can’t tell them anything or their precious little feelings get hurt and then they report you

Tulips


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realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Oh wait, I know this one.

I shouldn't have gotten banned last time, didn't call anyone names, curse anyone out, nothing....but i got called names, and i got cursed out by members here on AZB....but i got banned and not ONE of them did....end of story! Do you KNOW that one!!
 

greyghost

Coast to Coast
Silver Member
Looks like it’s playing cupped....ball speeds up coming off right rail...but slows before hitting it.

Couldn’t center sag do something like that?




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icemanfred

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Okay thanks for the info.
I will look into that app... that sounds interesting.
I was able to get 4x length but at break speed causing a jump off the rail.

the table has shims under the legs. the slate has screw in the middle to the frame.
I will look for any gaps.
solid wood frame with those blocks for the slate screws.
 
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buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
When pool table manufactures build rails 1 1/2" thick, 1 3/8" nose height plays dog slow, 1 5/16" is the perfect nose height for those rails, but that also depends on if there is a cloth relief dado on the bottom of the rails for stapling the cloth to. If there's no cloth relief and the rail is going to bolt right down tight on the cloth, then the desired nose height is 1 1/4" and the cloth thickness will raise it up to where it needs to be to play right.


And just so everyone knows, and before anyone adds their lack of knowledge, thin rails and soft Accufast style cushions change the whole concept of the BCA rail specs, in which at the time they were published, rails were built to 1 3/4" thick with a formica cap, 1 11/16" if they were natural wood finished.


I think this is the answer.. you said your cushion nose was 1 1/2 inches. That's too tall.
 
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