Not too large a problem.
My Sterling Wave 4x8 case ($150 @ Billiards Warehouse right now) has a 32" tub, plus an extra inch available under the cover.
Easily accommodates my 60" Allers.
pete
60" (or longer) Cues ?
- Thread starter nancewayne
- Start date
Not too large a problem.
My Sterling Wave 4x8 case ($150 @ Billiards Warehouse right now) has a 32" tub, plus an extra inch available under the cover.
Easily accommodates my 60" Allers.
pete
That and Porper makes a 35" 2X4 case for $100. I just bought one for when my 34" butt is done.
I also bought one of the Porper 34" as a temp case to hold my 60" cues while Mr. Barton builds me a custom one... One of my cues will not fit at all, butt down OR joint down. Seems the tubes are for more narrow butted cues... I was very disappointed. That was the whole point of buying it.
Also, I just had a Prewitt refinished from Ed and it did fit....but after pulling the Prewitt back out, a scratch appeared on the forearm. I got a flashlight and looked down in the tube and found a chunk of dried glue about 8" down from the top on the side. The only way the Prewitt fit was with the joint down(which I don't care for anyway), and this piece of dried glue put about a 4" scratch down the forearm.
You have no idea how pissed I am about this :angry:... A $300 refinish only to scratch a perfect ebony forearm... This is just a head's up for you. Not trying to bust your bubble. They are cheaply made, and some cues will not even fit in them.
Hope your experience is better than mine...
Clint
Back to the topic...
Having shot with 58" cues most of my life, being tall and somewhat lanky...the switch to 60" cues was very easy and natural, and I won't ever look back at "shooting" with shorter cues.
Highly recommended for the taller gents
Clint
Having shot with 58" cues most of my life, being tall and somewhat lanky...the switch to 60" cues was very easy and natural, and I won't ever look back at "shooting" with shorter cues.
Highly recommended for the taller gents
Clint
Back to the topic...
Having shot with 58" cues most of my life, being tall and somewhat lanky...the switch to 60" cues was very easy and natural, and I won't ever look back at "shooting" with shorter cues.
Highly recommended for the taller gents
Clint
Do you have a 60 inch Lambros? would love to see pic.
I have a 60" cue,an it fits just fine in both my cases,neither are custom.
I still think you have a good point tho.
No I don't, but I sure would like one!!! :grin-square:
the one below is a 58"...
Clint
Mike will make them, and his shop is in full swing right now. My brother just got one and it hits real good.
Interesting discussion. Personally, I am thinking of moving to 57 from 58....shorter. I guess I'm stuck in old school. :thumbup:
If anybody is looking to try a 60 inch I have one for sale.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=255402
If anybody is looking to try a 60 inch I have one for sale.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=255402
was it a pyramid cue ??
59 inch cue
59 inch cue
20. 1 oz 4.0 oz shafts mike
59 inch cue
20. 1 oz 4.0 oz shafts mike
If its balanced correctly then the weight makes no change in the stroke..I play with a 12.9 14" straight taper sunken wood shaft..
all about balance
i think longer cues are great, i'm 5'6" and i did experiment with a 61" cue for a little while. i found that i played much better having my hand position closer to the balance point on the cue. this worked extremely well for regular shots, but i had a real hard time getting any consistency making tougher shots being jacked up, or when i was trying to play a power draw with the cueball close to the rail. having a shorter bridge from these positions made the cue feel too butt heavy, and the shaft too light feeling. i think a long cue balanced more evenly would perhaps work better.
i think longer cues are great, i'm 5'6" and i did experiment with a 61" cue for a little while. i found that i played much better having my hand position closer to the balance point on the cue. this worked extremely well for regular shots, but i had a real hard time getting any consistency making tougher shots being jacked up, or when i was trying to play a power draw with the cueball close to the rail. having a shorter bridge from these positions made the cue feel too butt heavy, and the shaft too light feeling. i think a long cue balanced more evenly would perhaps work better.
swami4u
Banned
So many people with the hand way back on the butt of the cue lmao, these same people spend hours searching for a cue with a 19" balance point, give or take, like it matters. While your at it, you can throw weight out the window too if your hand is on the butt cap side of the cue. Some of the best players in the world played with SW cues yrs ago, and the norm was close too 20oz, if you hold the cue on the designed spot for a proper balance, a 20oz cue will feel light. That was the whole idea of a 'custom' cue! Has nothing to do with the inlays, and flash, but it showed a cue that was measured/balanced for you. A custom job.....
You should measure your grip hand position from the bottom of the cue, then figure out what length cue you need, and were to balance that cue.
So if your wing span is short you use a 57" if your tall with a wide wing span, you make a 59-61+++ cue and tell the cue maker you want it to balance at this point, and close behind that, is were you train your grip hand to fall 'most' of the time (it will be behind the true balance point in most cases these days. You need to figure out how much with the cue maker.)
So if you want a cue with a little forward balance......
Find your grip hand position measure this from the butt
The cue maker then needs to have a good idea what length the cue needs to be with the wood used, to nail the balance point so you grip it on the right spot. If you tell the cue maker you want a little forward balance on the cue, the cue has to be adjusted in length too allow your grip hand to fall on the adjusted spot too assure a forward balance.
Same with a neural balance or butt heavy balance. If you grip a neutral cue, the the weight should be equal front to back, so if the cue rests on your pointer finger it balances. If you want a little forward balance the cue should fall slow forward when balanced on the pointer finger. Sorry, but if your 'custom cue' doesn't balance right were you grip the cue on most shots, then its not a custom. Hate to say.......If you grip on some dumb spot like the butt cap, and tell people its a forward balance, LMAO well no kidding! Grab it were its supposed to be gripped and find out then......after that, sell it and have one measured/balanced to you...... then the length and weight mean something.
Also, the thickness of the handle in the grip area......for your hand and grip style.... comes into play on a 'true' custom cue.
When all this works, a little heaver cue feels light, and you can get rid of all the cue deadening core, and play with solid wood, which gives a much better hit, around 19.5-20oz IMHO. Sw cues play real good, no core.......Core is a short cut that cuts out the sound of a cue, and makes it sound dead (most of the time). IMHO
So really, there is no magic pill' if you want a soild cue, you need soild wood, so that jacks the weight up some to around 19.5 (no core). If you have a true custom made, it will be balanced to you only.......The added or reduced length is just to find the proper balance point for you. At this time, if you nail it all right, and keep your grip hand on the right spot, the 19.5 cue will feel light.
There is exceptions of course. But the rule of thumb was two fingers forward of wrap for balance point. Really, how much stroke do you need playing on all this new cloth? If you need to throw off a balance point and make a cue feel more heavy for 4" of extra stroke, you prob. should be looking to fix your cue-ball contact points. Keep the cue balanced right, with a proper length for you, and work on not needing to use a extra 4" to move a cue-ball around on these super fast cloths. I wont get into the fact i'm a firm believer that long strokes are for show, and people that needed to make money to eat, 24/7, knew that a short compact stroke, staying middle cue ball much as possible, equaled food,and people that needed to show a powerful long stroke unless they were named 'hook' were probley making the game harder then it needed to be........
You should measure your grip hand position from the bottom of the cue, then figure out what length cue you need, and were to balance that cue.
So if your wing span is short you use a 57" if your tall with a wide wing span, you make a 59-61+++ cue and tell the cue maker you want it to balance at this point, and close behind that, is were you train your grip hand to fall 'most' of the time (it will be behind the true balance point in most cases these days. You need to figure out how much with the cue maker.)
So if you want a cue with a little forward balance......
Find your grip hand position measure this from the butt
The cue maker then needs to have a good idea what length the cue needs to be with the wood used, to nail the balance point so you grip it on the right spot. If you tell the cue maker you want a little forward balance on the cue, the cue has to be adjusted in length too allow your grip hand to fall on the adjusted spot too assure a forward balance.
Same with a neural balance or butt heavy balance. If you grip a neutral cue, the the weight should be equal front to back, so if the cue rests on your pointer finger it balances. If you want a little forward balance the cue should fall slow forward when balanced on the pointer finger. Sorry, but if your 'custom cue' doesn't balance right were you grip the cue on most shots, then its not a custom. Hate to say.......If you grip on some dumb spot like the butt cap, and tell people its a forward balance, LMAO well no kidding! Grab it were its supposed to be gripped and find out then......after that, sell it and have one measured/balanced to you...... then the length and weight mean something.
Also, the thickness of the handle in the grip area......for your hand and grip style.... comes into play on a 'true' custom cue.
When all this works, a little heaver cue feels light, and you can get rid of all the cue deadening core, and play with solid wood, which gives a much better hit, around 19.5-20oz IMHO. Sw cues play real good, no core.......Core is a short cut that cuts out the sound of a cue, and makes it sound dead (most of the time). IMHO
So really, there is no magic pill' if you want a soild cue, you need soild wood, so that jacks the weight up some to around 19.5 (no core). If you have a true custom made, it will be balanced to you only.......The added or reduced length is just to find the proper balance point for you. At this time, if you nail it all right, and keep your grip hand on the right spot, the 19.5 cue will feel light.
There is exceptions of course. But the rule of thumb was two fingers forward of wrap for balance point. Really, how much stroke do you need playing on all this new cloth? If you need to throw off a balance point and make a cue feel more heavy for 4" of extra stroke, you prob. should be looking to fix your cue-ball contact points. Keep the cue balanced right, with a proper length for you, and work on not needing to use a extra 4" to move a cue-ball around on these super fast cloths. I wont get into the fact i'm a firm believer that long strokes are for show, and people that needed to make money to eat, 24/7, knew that a short compact stroke, staying middle cue ball much as possible, equaled food,and people that needed to show a powerful long stroke unless they were named 'hook' were probley making the game harder then it needed to be........
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What are our heights?
I never really paid attention to the length of my cue, but I was watching Jimmy Reid's "No Time for Negative" and he explains the ideal weight and length of a cue for a person. Here's the actual snapshot from the video:
I don't know how tall Earl is but I'm sure he exceeds Jimmy Reid's chart, haha. I've also seen a snooker cue video where the instructor suggests that your cue comes to your shoulder when you stand it up next to you.
I never really paid attention to the length of my cue, but I was watching Jimmy Reid's "No Time for Negative" and he explains the ideal weight and length of a cue for a person. Here's the actual snapshot from the video:
I don't know how tall Earl is but I'm sure he exceeds Jimmy Reid's chart, haha. I've also seen a snooker cue video where the instructor suggests that your cue comes to your shoulder when you stand it up next to you.
60" (or longer?) Cues ?
Having further explored this issue, I've found more than one custom cue maker that can extend the butt easily using a longer butt cap. The problem is the matching length of the shaft (for balance?). Most Makers can't or won't make a 30" or longer shaft. The partial shafts of Predator or OB can be made to around 30" to 30 1/2" but I don't know of any other shaft maker that can go beyond that shaft length. F.Y.I.
Having further explored this issue, I've found more than one custom cue maker that can extend the butt easily using a longer butt cap. The problem is the matching length of the shaft (for balance?). Most Makers can't or won't make a 30" or longer shaft. The partial shafts of Predator or OB can be made to around 30" to 30 1/2" but I don't know of any other shaft maker that can go beyond that shaft length. F.Y.I.
