Struggles with english

Island Drive

Otto/Dads College Roommate/Cleveland Browns
Silver Member
I've spent about 6 hours with Scott Lee on fundamentals (and some other stroke doctors like Alex Lely). I also use the QMD3 Stroke Trainer (which I invented, initially for myself) a lot to check up on my stroke so I'm pretty confident it's straight and I'm hitting the ball where I intend. I can roll in those center ball hits, but put on some spin and they don't go in.

I'd pm him then, he understands your game better than us posters. The new cloth tho, compared to 10 years ago may be in play.

I stopped playing allot for 20 years (kids/divorce). The cloth is waaaaaay different than the early Simonis, and it's pretty much like billiard cloth when worn a little. Because of that, I will have to change equipment to play ''up to speed'' if that's possible again at my age.

NOTHING COMES QUICK IN THIS GAME....takes 2-3 months to ingrain new habits, then your able to move on to the next plateau.

Bowling is allot easier :p
 

hang-the-9

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I struggle a lot making the ball when using english. I'm somewhat familiar deflection (squirt) and throw but it's difficult to adjust my aim to account for both. Variables like speed, bridge length, distance, etc. all seem to come into play causing me to miss or to avoid using english when I should. Other than hitting a million balls, are there any tips to using english that can help? I generally use 'parallel' english as it seems most natural to me and use a solid maple shaft.

You pretty much described why some of us still don't play at the pro level, we just can't make every ball, especially with spin. If you can't compensate with the shaft you have, try another shaft. Aside from that, there is no magic to make a spin shot since every shot will be different in some way, including how you personally aim and shoot (mechanics basically).

There are also some subtle things with spin shots, they are not just harder to make, but the spin that gets put on the object ball also can reject it out of the pocket depending on how hard you hit it and where. My son still likes to shoot shots hard down the rail with draw and spin, then wonders why they bobble out a lot. For 6 years I have been telling him that tables don't like that sort of shot hit hard, for 6 years he has ignored me and keeps missing.
 
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jburkm002

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What is the view on SAWS? Seems like a magical way to apply side spin while still aiming directly at the contact point. Also while making all shafts equal in the process.
 

Cornerman

Cue Author...Sometimes
Gold Member
Silver Member
I've spent about 6 hours with Scott Lee on fundamentals (and some other stroke doctors like Alex Lely). I also use the QMD3 Stroke Trainer (which I invented, initially for myself) a lot to check up on my stroke so I'm pretty confident it's straight and I'm hitting the ball where I intend. I can roll in those center ball hits, but put on some spin and they don't go in.

Sounds like you need a basic english lesson.

With a normal maple shaft , squirt dominates, so if you’re trying to compensate for throw, you’ll always be compensating the opposite direction (the wrong direction). I suggest to forget about throw and only compensate for squirt at this stage in order to understand how to pocket balls. Also in general, parallel english with a normal shaft only works if you blend butt elevation and speed of stroke.

Where do you live? If Dr Dave’s material doesn’t set you straight, maybe a fine poster from AZ can meet up with you.


Freddie <~~~ and yes, the effective pivot point changes
 

dr_dave

Instructional Author
Gold Member
Silver Member
What is the view on SAWS? Seems like a magical way to apply side spin while still aiming directly at the contact point. Also while making all shafts equal in the process.
The System for Aiming With Sidespin (SAWS) is not magical at all. It is based on a simple calibration procedure that teaches you the right combinations of BHE and FHE to use for shots of different distance and speed. And it works for any bridge length and any cue. There are still advantages to using an LD shaft because with less aim adjustment, there is less chance for making errors.

Video demonstrations and much more info is available here:

aim compensation when using sidespin

Enjoy,
Dave
 

Pidge

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Visualise the speed and tip placement you want to hit the cue ball. Then visualise the path you need the cue ball to take. Shoot the shot. Don't deviate away from the initial visualisation of speed and tip placement. Most people struggle with English using this method purely by changing the speed they hit the shot or adjusting tip placement whilst down. The ball is potted or missed whilst stood, not whilst down.
 

dr_dave

Instructional Author
Gold Member
Silver Member
The System for Aiming With Sidespin (SAWS) is not magical at all. It is based on a simple calibration procedure that teaches you the right combinations of BHE and FHE to use for shots of different distance and speed. And it works for any bridge length and any cue. There are still advantages to using an LD shaft because with less aim adjustment, there is less chance for making errors.

Video demonstrations and much more info is available here:

aim compensation when using sidespin
Any sufficiently advanced aiming system is indistinguishable from magic.
But what distinguishes SAWS from other "sidespin aiming systems" is that if you carefully follow all of the well-defined steps, it actually works (assuming your center-ball alignment is good) ... and no "intuition" or "experience" is required.

Regards,
Dave
 
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