Sneaky Shaft too white
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deadbeat
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Sneaky Shaft too white - 08-19-2019, 06:10 PM

Guys help me out, I have a shaft nearly finished on an old conversion sneaky, one I took the finish off of and am ready to apply finish to the shaft and the butt. The problem I am seeing is the shaft is way too white for it to look good to me. Is there a way to yellow the maple shaft some, maybe atleast where it meets the butt? Putting a ring on to break it up is not an option, guy had the stick for years and wants it back as close as I can get it to when he got it in the 70's. I am not looking for true perfection here, but is there any way to "age" the shaft to make it look older, or should I have used an old house to make the shaft out of instead of hanging wood that has never seen the light of day? Or, just thought, how can I get the maple to lighten on the butt?

Last edited by deadbeat; 08-19-2019 at 06:13 PM.
  
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JoeyInCali
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08-19-2019, 11:46 PM

Boiled linseed oil .


  
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08-20-2019, 05:27 AM

Thank you, just so I don't mess this up, should I just use that on the shaft, then epoxy finish the butt and bottom of the shaft after like I normally would?
  
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08-20-2019, 06:30 AM

Solvent based polyurethane will also impart a slight amber colour.


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08-20-2019, 11:17 AM

Bulls Eye Amber cut with DA gives maple a really nice yellowed/aged look. Plus you can use it for your sanding/shaft sealer. You can do the whole shaft and then epoxy over it on the butt. Might want to cut it pretty thin to start with, or try on a scrap piece first.
  
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08-21-2019, 01:55 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbeat View Post
Thank you, just so I don't mess this up, should I just use that on the shaft, then epoxy finish the butt and bottom of the shaft after like I normally would?
The BLO would have to be put on the butt to color match. BLO is a penetrating oil finish that will darken slightly and enrich the maple color. It cures to provide some moisture protection but not much. Pure Tung oil cures fully, but it can really take weeks for that to happen. Not sure about putting epoxy on top of the BLO. Would certainly need to be fully cured. Dewaxed shellac could be used to bridge the finishes if not compatible. I've never tried to do anything like that, cue or otherwise, so test it out if you want to try or maybe Joey can say more since he suggested the BLO.

Otherwise, would not a simple light stain work?
  
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08-26-2019, 06:36 AM

I suppose a stain could work, and as far as drying times go, I am in no hurry. I'll post some pics when I actually get time to get back in my shop to show what path I took and how it turned out.
  
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