Break cue stuff, again.

Black-Balled

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
To be honest, you shouldn't worry about a new cue.

I'm not perfect either but, it sounds like you need to work on your stance, grip and bridge hand etc...etc.....everything that leads to a straight stroke.

After you get ^^^^^^^^^ in check as best you can, evaluate your break again. You may find you don't need a new break cue.

Jeff
:withstupid:

Perhaps AK would be better served breaking wit playing cue, given his break speed and the increased control on offer?
 

KCRack'em

I'm not argumentative!!!!
Silver Member
I love my dymondwood jump/break by Alex Brick. It breaks and jumps fabulously. However, I am going to try carbon fiber. Gotta scratch that itch!
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
I don't find purpleheart shafts as better for breaking.

I think a 13.5mm stiff maple makes for great breaking shafts.
Don't go with a break jump.
Just get a dedicated breaker. Heavy up front and light handle.
Makes snapping a little easier.
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
What is the best wood for a break cue shaft, maple, purple heart, etc.?

How about the joint? Is the Uni Loc a good choice or another all metal joint?

Seems like every one has their preference's on weight and tip diameter.

Hard tip, light weight, and stroke speed. Put these things together with any wood type and you have a good jump cue. I once made a video using a 3/8" poplar dowel rod from Lowe's with no tip to jump balls from half inch to 5 or 6 inches away.

For short quick hops, when the obstructing ball is anywhere from about half an inch to 7 or 8 inches from the cb, and the ball or target you are jumping to hit is less than 2 feet away, then a very light jump cue works best, anywhere between about 3 to 6 oz. The cb hops up at a steep angle to clear the obstruction but has little forward momentum when it lands, so if the target is more than about 2 feet out the cb might not have enough speed to send the ob to a rail after contact.

If the obstructing ball is a more than 7 or 8 inches away from the cb, then a standard jump cue weighing around 8 to 9 oz can be used easily. This is the weight range of most jump cues. The jump portion of most jump-break cues tends to be too heavy (9oz or more) for a good short range jump cue. They work great as long as the cb isn't too close to the obstructing ball. When the cb is very close to the obstruction, a dedicated light jump cue works much better.

None of this means that one wood grain might or might not be a fraction better for jumping due to better energy transfer, but I think it's such a fine line that weight and speed trumps any wood type.
 
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KRJ

Support UKRAINE
Silver Member
I love my dymondwood jump/break by Alex Brick. It breaks and jumps fabulously. However, I am going to try carbon fiber. Gotta scratch that itch!

Yeah, you should sell that Brick cue to help finance the new cue. I mean, I'll take it off your hands only because it's just about worthless now and I want to help ;) lol
 

AkGuy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Breaking

I have the Predator Break App on my phone, it shows I rarely hit 20 mph. Usually in the 18 mph range.
 

jrctherake

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just don't get caught up in the hype of thinking you must have a $700 BK Rush to have a good break. Something like a purple heart or diamond wood shaft combined with a white diamond tip will perform as good as most people need

Nobody needs any certain type wood, to break well.

All they need is a stroke that is:

Accurate

&

fast


The CF stuff adds a little energy but, like you said, "it's not needed"....not in the least.

Jeff
 

jrctherake

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have the Predator Break App on my phone, it shows I rarely hit 20 mph. Usually in the 18 mph range.

Doesn't matter how fast your cb is moving if your not hitting head ball pretty square..your not gonna do well.

Back off the speed speed a tad. Learn to hit cb and head ball first.

Jeff
 

ceebee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a Dymonwood shaft that has a Uni Loc joint, I could get a 30" butt with a Uni Loc and try it.

I can rack tight. I have a very good wooden rack, a Delta rack, Magic rack and Accu rack.

It is probably my control, the faster I hit, the worse I hit where I am aiming. Crap.
Maybe you should video yourself Breaking FAST, to see what's happening in your delivery. If you see that your rotating too much & hitting the left side more, maybe you should practice in a different stance, to bring your stoke down the Shot Line & not cross it.

Videos can help you learn quicker...
 

jrctherake

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Maybe you should video yourself Breaking FAST, to see what's happening in your delivery. If you see that your rotating too much & hitting the left side more, maybe you should practice in a different stance, to bring your stoke down the Shot Line & not cross it.

Videos can help you learn quicker...

Videos of yourself can tell a lot "if":

The camera is at the right angle (sometimes we need multiple angles).

And you actually know "what" to look for and "how" to fix it after finding it.

The longer this thread gets, the more I realize people need lessons.

Jeff
 

mdavis228

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I hope the best for you. One of the simple things that can get overlooked is this...
If you pay attention to what the cue ball does at & immediately after impact with the rack - the cue ball won't lie.
If you're not hitting the rack square - you're not ready to hit it harder.
I remember Grady telling me, with respect to a range of things... "the cue ball won't lie".
 

jrctherake

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
All this talk about:

Timing
Bringing extra body movements into play

Etc...etc..... is a recipe for disaster for some.

I'm starting to think the OP would be well served to get at least one lesson from an instructor that knows how to fix a stroke.

Until he can stroke straight, all the timing and twisting and jumping ain't gonna do anything but frustrate the OP.

Jeff


OP: Not trying to be mean or anything but, I think you should get that lesson.

BTW, I'm not to good to take my own advice. I'm in line to get my stroke looked at by Scott Lee..... if he ever gets here..

Jeff
 

ceebee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
We gave Video Analysis lessons at the big Tournaments we went to. We used up to 4 camera's at once, plus lasers to tell us what was happening in the stroke. We had lasers in the butt of the cue & maybe one on the shaft. By using 3 cameras, front, back & side, we could see where the Cue was at anytime in the delivery, The front laser showed us where the cue was pointing & rear laser showed the cue's directional travel during the stroke.

When we played the video back, in slow motion, lots of good information was gleaned from the video. We could stop, start, slow down, go ahead & visit with the student, while all this was going on, so the student could see where his accurate delivery was going astray. We would actually give the person a video they could go home & watch.

If a picture is worth a 1000 words, a video must be worth a billion words.
 
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