An instructor took a look at my cue tip the other day and said it looked like it needed to be replaced. I've had the same tip / cue for over 5 years, but haven't played regularly until I got a table a year ago. I plan on wearing the tip out more regularly, so I'm wondering if replacing the tip is something I should do myself. The tip replacement stuff at Dick's Sporting Goods looks easy to deal with, but I'm anticipating people on AZ to tell me not to go there. The better tips look like they need shaping that a newbie might mess up. Thoughts? I'm not too afraid to mess up and learn as I go, but I think it will payoff in the long run to do it myself versus bringing it to a pro.
Tip Replacement - DIY or Professional?
- Thread starter HomerJay20
- Start date
I've always done mine myself.
Just be careful not the damage the edges of the ferrule when removing the old tip & be careful not to ding the shaft with the clamp. Put a piece of cloth or napkin between the shaft and the clamp. And get the tip as near to as perfect a fit before cluing it so it does not need much cutting or sanding once installed.
I just realized that I'm talking the old way. Now I would just super clue it on but make sure it is positioned 'perfectly'.
Or let a pro do it if one is close.
Good Luck,
Rick
Just be careful not the damage the edges of the ferrule when removing the old tip & be careful not to ding the shaft with the clamp. Put a piece of cloth or napkin between the shaft and the clamp. And get the tip as near to as perfect a fit before cluing it so it does not need much cutting or sanding once installed.
I just realized that I'm talking the old way. Now I would just super clue it on but make sure it is positioned 'perfectly'.
Or let a pro do it if one is close.
Good Luck,
Rick
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Easy to replace. But I have a lathe. No lathe=not so easy!
No lathe:frown: In fact, I don't have any tools. I would have to invest if it's worth it.
Jerry Forsyth
Well-known member
I have replaced all of my own tips since 1964. I use a cheap 'Y'-shaped rubber-band clamp and Tweeten Tip Cement and I leave it clamped for 24 hours. I use a tip that is 1 mm larger than my ferrule. After I remove the clamp I put a layer of scotch tape around the end of the ferrule and sand the tip down to size and shape with a standard tip file.
I have never scratched a ferrule and I have never had a tip pop off on me at all. The cement is very long-lasting and effective. The tip on my playing cue has been on for over 20 years. I do not sand my tips, I use a tapper and just rough them up a bit when required.
I have never scratched a ferrule and I have never had a tip pop off on me at all. The cement is very long-lasting and effective. The tip on my playing cue has been on for over 20 years. I do not sand my tips, I use a tapper and just rough them up a bit when required.
Without proper tools (lathe) it is harder.
If you want to replace it yourself, try practicing on some old cues that are not that important to you. The more practice the better.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX2pKoHe9Y0&feature=player_embedded
If you want to replace it yourself, try practicing on some old cues that are not that important to you. The more practice the better.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX2pKoHe9Y0&feature=player_embedded
You can take a pairs of pliers & grip the tip above the ferrules & turn 90* to the stick & the tip should either pop off or tare off.
Get a small knife with a curved blade like those on a swiss army knife & scrape any remaining tip from the ferrule while being very careful to not 'round' the edges of the ferrule.
Sand the tip until it's perimeter matches that of the ferrule & rough up the bottom that will contact the ferrule.
When you have it nearly perfect, carefully clue it on with super clue so that the perimeters match. You will not like it if it is off in any direction. For this reason it is best to have the tip very slightly larger than the ferrule.
Once it is clued on you can carefully file, emery board, or sand it down while being careful not to sand the ferrule.
Then take a leather belt & wrap it around the outer edge of the tip & turn it. This will burnish the perimeter of the tip smooth.
Rarely but sometimes the tip may come off during play if there was not a good adhesion seal.
If at 1st. you don't succeed, prepare the top of the ferrule & bottom of the tip & re clue & hope for good adhesion.
Shape & roughen the top of the tip as you like it
Once it's on it's on.
If you have an expensive cue take it to a pro.
Good Luck & Best Wishes,
Rick
Get a small knife with a curved blade like those on a swiss army knife & scrape any remaining tip from the ferrule while being very careful to not 'round' the edges of the ferrule.
Sand the tip until it's perimeter matches that of the ferrule & rough up the bottom that will contact the ferrule.
When you have it nearly perfect, carefully clue it on with super clue so that the perimeters match. You will not like it if it is off in any direction. For this reason it is best to have the tip very slightly larger than the ferrule.
Once it is clued on you can carefully file, emery board, or sand it down while being careful not to sand the ferrule.
Then take a leather belt & wrap it around the outer edge of the tip & turn it. This will burnish the perimeter of the tip smooth.
Rarely but sometimes the tip may come off during play if there was not a good adhesion seal.
If at 1st. you don't succeed, prepare the top of the ferrule & bottom of the tip & re clue & hope for good adhesion.
Shape & roughen the top of the tip as you like it
Once it's on it's on.
If you have an expensive cue take it to a pro.
Good Luck & Best Wishes,
Rick
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If only....
Found this looking for a video on tip replacement. If only this thread was about ceiling fan replacement. :thumbup:
What I cannot figure out is why there are no electricians that look like this where I live.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=tPBiqyQnB4M
Found this looking for a video on tip replacement. If only this thread was about ceiling fan replacement. :thumbup:
What I cannot figure out is why there are no electricians that look like this where I live.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=tPBiqyQnB4M
I agree with that.
great guide
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018&page=1&pp=15
I purchased the tools in this guide, and have been changing tips for a few years. The only issue I have is that the Shaver is designed for 13mm tips, so smaller tips can come out a little cone shaped due to the angle of the smaller ferrule into the trimming "chamber." I've learned to leave them a little larger than the ferrule, and to be patient with the sandpaper to finish the trimming.
And yes, practice makes perfect. I purchased some Triangle tips (inexpensive but good) to practice with on an old shaft while learning. After a few successful tries and built-up confidence, I moved on to my main playing shaft with a Kamui Black medium tip, and got it right the first time. Good luck to you!
- Andrew
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018&page=1&pp=15
I purchased the tools in this guide, and have been changing tips for a few years. The only issue I have is that the Shaver is designed for 13mm tips, so smaller tips can come out a little cone shaped due to the angle of the smaller ferrule into the trimming "chamber." I've learned to leave them a little larger than the ferrule, and to be patient with the sandpaper to finish the trimming.
And yes, practice makes perfect. I purchased some Triangle tips (inexpensive but good) to practice with on an old shaft while learning. After a few successful tries and built-up confidence, I moved on to my main playing shaft with a Kamui Black medium tip, and got it right the first time. Good luck to you!
- Andrew
Posts taken from this thread by Chuck Fields:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018
Josh
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018
Here is a step by step set of instructions on how to retip your own cues. It requires a minimal investment in tools, that pays for itself in the first 10-12 tips you replace. This took years to learn and perfect. I tried lots of different glues, clamps, gizmos etc etc etc..... But it all comes down to what Im about to show you. Its the easiest, most cost effective way I know how to retip cues. Here is a retipping job I just did on a Judd sneaky pete.
First things first...... the tools
A Porper Big Shaver (you can use a mushroom grazer.... but these work so much better), a rapid cue top sander (for getting the top of the ferrule flat), superglue gel (I prefer Locktite brand), metal trimmer for roughing the top of the tip only, a couple of post it notes for protecting your cue shaft from the rapid cuetop sanders clamp, the new tip, a razor knife, and assorted autobody sandpapers (600 grit to 2000)
This was a cue I just bought, the tip it came with was loose and not looking all that great. So take the razor knife and cut it off. Leave between 1/32" and 1/16" of the old tip for safety reasons.
Next, trim and scrap some more of the old tip off until you can see some of the ferrule.
Use the post-it notes to wrap the shaft as shown. Use a couple or 3. It protects from the sanders clamp.
Clamped.
Use the top sander as per intructions..... I like to use the outer hole first, then the inner for a "cleanup pass". Be careful here, the sander works quickly, stop afer all the old tip and glue are gone. No need to go deeper.
Sometimes with softer ferrule materials, you will have "hairs" of plastic hanging off the edge. Very lightly knock them off with 600 grit and almost no pressure.
Next its time to prep the tip, I use the sander for this also. Its metal plate with the sandpaper makes for a nice flat surface to sand the back of the tip. Like the ferrule....... no need to go crazy here. I stop right after all the "sealer" is gone. You are making sure the tip is flat and ready for glue only. Also before I forget about it, do not touch the newly prepped tip or ferrule.
Now its time to glue. I start lightly on the tip. Let the glue soak in, rub it around with the applicator on the gluebottle. Then put a little bit more on. its like laying tile, you dont want or need complete coverage. Use the bottles applicator like a notched trowel and spread and "notch" the glue. Same thing on the ferrule. If you dont use enough the tip will not adhere. If you use too much, it will ooze out and make a mess. If you use just the right amount..... it will barely form a bead between the tip and ferrule when you put the tip on and seat it.
Center the clamp by eye (always use a tip bigger than the diameter of your ferrule) And lightly apply pressure with your finger tip for one to two minutes.
to be continued......
Josh
Cont:
Josh
Prop the cue against something, so the shaft is vertical, and nothing is touching the tip. Wait 15 -20 minutes (you can wait less time, or more time...... but I like the 15 minute rule. Its usually more than needed, and Im in no big hurry) Afterwards, you have a tip on the shaft ready for trimming.
The Big Shaver comes with directions, I will add this. Go slow, dont try to trim the tip in one pass. Make several cuts, doing just a little bit at a time.
Remember to leave a littel excess material for the next step. If you dont, the finished tip wont look as good.
The next step is sanding the tip and blending it into the ferrule. If you did not leave enough, you will have to sand too much and you risk damaging the ferrule. If you left too much, it will just take you longer. With some experience, you will figure out how much you need to leave to get the tip sanded well, without having to sand the ferrule singificantly. I start with 600-800 grit and roll the tip between paper that im holding like I am burnishing the tip. Go slow, dont build up excess heat in this step. Layered tips delaminate, and single layer tips can cook.
Work your way up to 1500 or so grit.
Then you are ready to burnish. I personally use a scrap of leather that I just realized I did not photo.......
After burnishing, you are ready to start roughing the tip to shape with the metal/sandpaper trimmer.(the top only with this tool, never use it on the side of a tip)
Then you can finsh shaping it with your prefered tool. I like a dime shaped willard.
After that, you are done and ready to chalk up and play!
I hope this helps those who needed a leg up on retipping your own cues. If you want to practice, buy some cheap tips and go to a pub and offer to retip their cues for avery small cost, or even free.
Its not difficult, just take your time, and have some patience. The results are worth it!
Chuck
Josh
Once I saw the results of my local pro .... I decided never to try to do it myself again. A lathe makes quick and perfect work of it, and how often are you really gonna need to doit anyway .
I say go to a pro, and don't bother with the learning curve.
The instructions are excellent though.
REV
I say go to a pro, and don't bother with the learning curve.
The instructions are excellent though.
REV
Take it to a pro, imo, unless you like to try every tip on the market, or are the DIY type and want to do it for learning/fun reasons.
If you play 8 hours a day you'll probably get 6 months of life out of your tip. My last tip lasted me 4 years of weekly play.
Cost will be around 10-20 for a standard tip installed, and 25 to 40 installed for a premium layered tip. Go to your local billiard room that has lots of full size tables (not a bar with 1 or 2 tables), and ask the guys sitting at the counter who does the best tip work in the area.
If you play 8 hours a day you'll probably get 6 months of life out of your tip. My last tip lasted me 4 years of weekly play.
Cost will be around 10-20 for a standard tip installed, and 25 to 40 installed for a premium layered tip. Go to your local billiard room that has lots of full size tables (not a bar with 1 or 2 tables), and ask the guys sitting at the counter who does the best tip work in the area.
I'm leaning toward the pro route, although I may try it myself on some of my crappy cues just for the learning.
cluelesscuer
New member
Have you considered owning two of the same shaft so the downtime won't be an issue?
I've been re-tipping cues by hand for over 30 years. The pics posted showing the Porper Big Shaver, Rapid Top cue sander, tip file(sandpaper insert) and glue ( I use Loctite Gel) are all good I use a rubberband to hold the tip in place while it's drying.
You don't need a lathe and it's not that hard to learn how to do by hand. Just start on an old house cue or cheap cue a few times till you get the hang of it.
Of course you can choose the modern route like many people do with cars and pay someone to change their oil, spark plugs, brakes as well. It's your cue and your money.
When I was coming up, taking care of your equipment including proper tip maintenance was part of playing pool.
Best of luck to you in whatever you decide.