Fluorescent lighting ?

cuekev said:

I was hoping for some help. I currently have 2 T12 70" 55w Cool White fluorescent tubes above my table. The light isn't bad but I would like to improve it. I don?t want to change fixtures only tubes. Any suggestions?

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Home Depot, Lowes, Google.

Have seen recommendations that full spectrum bulbs are better than the cheaper versions.

Please do not consider this to be MY informed suggestion

You can buy high output fluorescent tubes... 75W - 110W T12

It's all about color rendering. Fluorescent bulbs are rated in temperature (Kelvin). Do a search to determine the best temp. for color rendering. I have such in my Diamond lamp but it is stored away and I cannot access the bulbs readily or I'd check.

You can go to higher wattage bulbs. Normally around 85 watts. Also, you could put a parabolic mirror diffusion panel underneath your lights (inexpensive at Home Depot, also available through commercial lighting stores.) That will scatter the light and reduce shadows on the table drastically. Also, you might consider installing a second fixture and have a total of 4 bulbs.

I have 8 four foot t-8's in my brunswick GCIV light. Cool white 4100k.

Full spectrum lighting is recommended by Brunswick and others. See their web site and read the light specifications. You may need a more powerful ballest with your current lights. After reading Brunswick specs I built my own using two sets of four foot light holders with four bulbs in each set. All the necessaries were available at Home Depot for about $100.00. Trim would be extra.

I don't know what kind of light you have but I think it would be better to replace light with a new T8 tube or T5 tube style fixture.
These will also cut down on heat and energy usage without losing lumen's.
E mail lighting specialist companies for their recommendations.
Joe W. is spot on.
I am a retired master Electrician and work PT at Home Depot.
all ballast's are for listed tubes only this info is printed clearly on ballast!
High Output ballasts /HO tubes are not interchanged with other ballasts!

9 on the snap said:

I have 8 four foot t-8's in my brunswick GCIV light. Cool white 4100k.

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Now, that's a lot of light!

9 on the snap said:

I have 8 four foot t-8's in my brunswick GCIV light. Cool white 4100k.

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Since I have very poor vision I will enjoy those.Only time I ever felt that I was able to see the ball very well was when I played in Cooney`s pool room in logansport,IN in 1994-95.He had florescent tube lights.

Here you go, not pretty but it works. Jay suggested lowering to about 36" inches off the table and then using duct tape on the sides to give it that old time pool room look - dark around the table when the blinds are closed.. This is an old photo but it shows a good view of the structure.



Two 2 X 4s are used as the support for the light. Trim can be added in any of several ways.

Joe, after seeing your photo, I'm curious if (even after drawing the blinds) all the outside light doesn't become problematic at times.

In my unfinished basement where I have my table, I'm faced with an opposite situation I have to address myself. I have two double bulb 4' fluorescents over my table, and it is the only light in the room, which is approximately 18x30.

I'm finding the lighted area over the table vs the relatively dark areas out of the playing zone may be affecting the pupils in my eyes and may be causing them to constantly dilate and contract some as I look away from the table and back again, and I sure don't need any more help missing a shot.

I mention this wondering if this is another common problem to guard against.

3 and stop, I have wooden blinds on the windows and doors so they block most of the light. It is not black but it is relatively dark. I solved the pupil problem by having hanging lights and a reostat for the ceiling fixtures away from the table. There are small lights (on resostats) next to the couch and a hanging light over the bar. These provide enough light for the eyes to adjust (and make a drink) but leave the rest of the room reasonably dark. When I made the room I wanted it relatively dark around the outside of the room but not pitch black. The double french doors that lead to the kitchen cast a kind of glow during the day and this helps too. I wanted (and got) the pool room effect without being in a dungeon. It just takes some time and thought. I think I have more of a night club effect with enough lights in specific place to have the room appear to be darker than it is.

Don't know what to say about the shorter light except that you could probably get a four footer and a two footer to place inside. If you are on an 8 foot table that might work. I find that an 8 foot light is necessary for even lighting on a nine foot light.

The color corrected lights are the best way to go. If you read about them you will learn that they are easier on the eyes. I am 65 this year and often play for 5 - 6 hours. I doubt that I could do that with weaker or un-corrected lights. When I play in the league on seven foot tables I find that after an hour or so my eyes are tired and that I have a more difficult time seeing the balls in many of the taverns where we play. Good lighting is important to me.

In my thinking the lighting is more important than what they look like. I have spent a considerable amount of time building and using my room. I have a particular style that I want and the lights have to be right and meet this style.

OH, BTW one of the things I really like is the use of duct tape to hide the sides of the light. There is less glare to the sides of the table but what could make it more of a man's room than duct tape on the lights! Of course I used classey looking black tape.