I was a LD guy for a long time and only recently started using standard maple again. Proper taper, ferrule, and tip diameter go a long way towards lowering deflection; however i've found it much easier to "bend" the cue ball on slightly obstructed shots using a shaft with slightly more deflection, resulting in more pots actually. I don't typically use much side english on longer shots if i can avoid it, so the pros of LD didn't outweigh the pros of actually having deflection for me personally.
Once you start planning more and more shots ahead and learning the natural cue ball paths off the object ball, you can adjust draw or follow "as opposed to left or right english" to put you in a good position for the next shot most of the time "excluding clusters, rail huggers, etc..."