Pocket facing help. Table rejecting balls and sounds dead

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Sean Hallett

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've been noticing alot of shots bouncing out of the pockets on my pool table when they 1000% should of went it. I noticed a big thud and wooden sound when this seemed to happen so i got the cue ball and tapped against the pocket and was alarmed and what I heard. The first part of the opening sounded okay but as i went slightly deeper into the pocket it was like it was going straight into solid wood!

The table is a Gold Crown 4 and it has new Brunswick superspeed rubbers on. However, the pocket facings are not the original because I couldn't find anything I could buy from the UK other then these:
http://www.pro9.co.uk/html/theproshop/main.php?P=product&pid=CLOX0007

Is it the pocket facings that are really that bad?
I know the best thing is neoprene pocket facings but I just can't find anywhere online that will ship to the UK :( Does anyone know a site that sells them and would ship to the UK?
There are different types of hardness grades and thicknesses so i'm not sure what type I should get? I want my table to be as forgiving as possible and not to rattle as much.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Sean Hallett

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
trentfromtoledo said:
You will have to check with them on the international shipping

https://www.zoro.com/e-james-rubber-neoprene-316thick-12x12-60a-6060-316a/i/G0730746/
Click to expand...

Thanks! I've managed to find a neoprene sheet on amazon but it's 70 Durometer hardness and not 60. Will that make it less bouncy and rattle less? Or is 70 just no good?
I've found a rubber sheet a 65 Durometer but it's not Neoprene. Does that make any difference?

Also, the sheet is 200mm x 200mm. Do you know if that is enough to to replace all the facings or will I need 2 sheets?
 
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driven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have the same problem as Sean. Although I don't get a thud or wooden sound.

When I put the table together I used thicker facings on the corner pockets, which I read would minimize the balls being rejected. That didn't work out very well.

The pockets are only about an eighth inch smaller than stock, but they play like they are about four and a quarter inch. Any shot that grazes the rail first is unlikely to drop. By comparison I have seen balls hit near the first diamond go in on videos.

my gc1 is a pita to take apart, but at some point I am going to have to replace the facings.


. pocket facings.jpg

pocket opening.jpg
 
bradsh98

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
driven said:
I have the same problem as Sean. Although I don't get a thud or wooden sound.

When I put the table together I used thicker facings on the corner pockets, which I read would minimize the balls being rejected. That didn't work out very well.

The pockets are only about an eighth inch smaller than stock, but they play like they are about four and a quarter inch. Any shot that grazes the rail first is unlikely to drop. By comparison I have seen balls hit near the first diamond go in on videos.

my gc1 is a pita to take apart, but at some point I am going to have to replace the facings.


.View attachment 523350

View attachment 523351
Click to expand...



The facings aren't your problem. It's the angles of the cut on your rails.
 
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driven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
bradsh98 said:
The facings aren't your problem. It's the angles of the cut on your rails.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll check that out. Not that I would do anything about it though.
I don't think the first owner would have done anything to change the angles and have to assume they are straight from the factory.
steven

It would have sucked to redo the facings only to not solve the problem
thanks again
 
bradsh98

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
driven said:
Thanks, I'll check that out. Not that I would do anything about it though.
I don't think the first owner would have done anything to change the angles and have to assume they are straight from the factory.
steven

It would have sucked to redo the facings only to not solve the problem
thanks again
Click to expand...

There is always the chance that the cushion rubber was cut at an improper angle, even from the factory. There is also the possibility that the wood behind the facings is beat up. This happens from years of ball impacts, on the 1/8" factory facings. In my opinion, 1/8" facings are just too thin. They aren't thick enough to prevent this type of damage.

Use a protractor to measure the angle of the rail, from the nose of the cushion, into the pocket. Your table is likely 142° or more. Don't be surprised if each rail is different. There is also a downward cut angle. Most early Gold Crowns measure about 11-12°. I generally cut all of my Gold Crown rails to 141° x 12°. This will make a fair playing pocket. Bad shots will be rejected, but any reasonable shot will drop.
 
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driven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
bradsh98 said:
There is always the chance that the cushion rubber was cut at an improper angle, even from the factory. There is also the possibility that the wood behind the facings is beat up. This happens from years of ball impacts, on the 1/8" factory facings. In my opinion, 1/8" facings are just too thin. They aren't thick enough to prevent this type of damage.

Use a protractor to measure the angle of the rail, from the nose of the cushion, into the pocket. Your table is likely 142° or more. Don't be surprised if each rail is different. There is also a downward cut angle. Most early Gold Crowns measure about 11-12°. I generally cut all of my Gold Crown rails to 141° x 12°. This will make a fair playing pocket. Bad shots will be rejected, but any reasonable shot will drop.
Click to expand...

Wow, you weren't kidding, the angles range from 142.6 all the way up to this:

pocket angle.jpg

I can see now how this angle would repel balls away from the pocket.
btw the picture with the angle finder is the same one as in the picture the 12 ball is on.
 
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