Coos Cues
Coos Cues
If you're a three ball runner like me and playing another three ball runner the break becomes substantially less important.
It's only the most important shot of the game for high 600 and up fargo players.
How many of you Break with your main playing Cue or use a break cue / house cue
- Thread starter PoolFan101
- Start date
If you're a three ball runner like me and playing another three ball runner the break becomes substantially less important.
It's only the most important shot of the game for high 600 and up fargo players.
I have, and do, break with every cue I have ever owned: production, custom, wood, carbon fiber, cheap, expensive, new, old, thin, thick, soft tip, and any other combination.
Some of my cues are 50 years old and I have never had any problems.
FWIW, most all my cues have soft tips on them and they are not all flattened out.
Some of my cues are 50 years old and I have never had any problems.
FWIW, most all my cues have soft tips on them and they are not all flattened out.
Never my main cue. Why would I want to flatten a tip I work so hard to achieve a desired shape by
pounding the cue ball harder than I play anytime during the game? The break shot is ruinous to tips.
After X number of breaks, whatever shape you had on your tip is different & so you reshape it back
but in doing so, you also shorten the tip’s life expectancy by taking off leather. So no, I protect my tips.
pounding the cue ball harder than I play anytime during the game? The break shot is ruinous to tips.
After X number of breaks, whatever shape you had on your tip is different & so you reshape it back
but in doing so, you also shorten the tip’s life expectancy by taking off leather. So no, I protect my tips.
I use a house stick , I use a medium tip and just cannot justify the added stress on the shaft or tip. I would like to get a break stick sometime but the Nick Varner house cue seems to do the job nicely. It is just at the pool hall it becomes a issue. They have the house cues put up and you have to ask for one. So it seems to walk off pretty easy.
I mostly play on my Son's table with them 99 percent of the time. I just go to the pool hall once in a great while to play in a tourny or watch my Son play in one. It seems that I can Break about half speed and still spread out pretty good , it seems hitting the 1 ball square will spread the balls pretty well .
break cue, Jacoby Edge
Only 80...? I'm jealous My driver to stroke ratio is way more lop sided
Another reason I carry a J/B is for tournament restrictions. I played in a series wherein you could only use two cues. So you had to choose between breaker or jumper. I split the difference literally. Since then (20yrs) I've just been doing the same thing.
I personally prefer the lack of induced spin a phenolic tip imparts on the CB during the break shot. I also have grown accustomed to the solid maple shaft and how it hops the CB into the break. I lose some breaking force but poping the break and parking the CB near center table is usually the most desirable outcome.
I've tried the LD break cues and they just feel anemic. I have zero doubt that's my own inability to develop enough cue spd, but it is what it is.
Golf is just a little different than pool, I have yet had to move my cue ball 250 yards. I dont think you could putt very well with a driver or drive very well with a putter, heck, they dont even look the same. My break cue looks eerily similar to my player and they even perform remarkably alike. When it comes down to it, especially on barboxes which is mostly what you will find in the Midwest, I want to control the cue ball on the break, not smash the crap out of the rack, it just aint necessary on a 7' table, so I use my player because its the best tool for the task at hand. I sometimes use my break cue on my 9 footer but since I really like taking my opening shot from the center of the table I usually end up switching back to my player, it moves the balls around about as good as my break cue.
lawlist
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I think every place that I used to play at had carpet, and I always put my cues that I wasn't using underneath the table, including, a house break cue at times.
You’d be surprised. I can putt decently with a driver, and actually quite well with the belly of a wedge.
Most decent players can play within a stroke or three of their average score using only 4 clubs, rather than the 14 allowed by the rules.
Why do we carry 14? Because of those extra 2 strokes.
A few years ago I switched to a lucasi slim 11.75 LD shaft, and started using a break cue just because I didn't trust it to cope with the repeated stress. For the 25 years before that I always broke with my shooter, and never saw any adverse effects from doing so.
Maybe my slim shaft could take the abuse, maybe not, but I didn't want to take the chance.
Maybe my slim shaft could take the abuse, maybe not, but I didn't want to take the chance.
No joint on any decent cue is going to be damaged from breaking. The only possible weak point would be tip/ferrule, and then I'd only be concerned on a LD (hollow) shaft.
My Schick sneaky has been a lifesaver in that department.
Break, masse, play, it handled it all for almost 30 years.
Break, masse, play, it handled it all for almost 30 years.
Definitely a break cue, or a house cue for breaking.
The forearm will get scratched up from the rail depending on your stance and follow through. I don't want that on my nice cues.
The forearm will get scratched up from the rail depending on your stance and follow through. I don't want that on my nice cues.
Any decent cue should handle breaking just fine. I break with my player often.
However, I have and use a break cue often as well, particularly when I'm leaning into the break pretty hard. It has a break tip that works better for that, has a different radius and won't deform, a synthetic ferrule I'm not afraid to crack. And if it catches a ding somewhere, I'm not going to lose any sleep. Lastly, I use a slightly different weight break cue that again, works better when I'm breaking on the harder side.
Oh and I need to put something in the other side of my custom 4x2 case anyway.
However, I have and use a break cue often as well, particularly when I'm leaning into the break pretty hard. It has a break tip that works better for that, has a different radius and won't deform, a synthetic ferrule I'm not afraid to crack. And if it catches a ding somewhere, I'm not going to lose any sleep. Lastly, I use a slightly different weight break cue that again, works better when I'm breaking on the harder side.
Oh and I need to put something in the other side of my custom 4x2 case anyway.
I mostly break with my Rick Howard player. Full ivory joint, ivory ferrule. Triangle and pooldawg8 milkdud tips. No problems anywhere and sometimes I do hit 'em very hard.
On my 2nd Howard shaft I have a Westinghouse micarta ferrule and an old Champion Chandivert tip, thanks to Rigmaster I have 4 or 5 extra tips now, but had no problems breaking with that either.
I only scuff as needed, not as a habit. I do burnish my tips with spit and leather often!
On my 2nd Howard shaft I have a Westinghouse micarta ferrule and an old Champion Chandivert tip, thanks to Rigmaster I have 4 or 5 extra tips now, but had no problems breaking with that either.
I only scuff as needed, not as a habit. I do burnish my tips with spit and leather often!
If you are slamming the forearm of your cue into the rail, while breaking, you are not doing it right.