Sorry, another pocket angle thread

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As I inch closer to the day I redo my table with new cloth and new rubber I fulling intend to make the pockets play the best they can. I have miter saw, a digital angle finder and experience woodworking as well as set up a table or 3. So what is the best angles to shoot for; [corners] 141° and 14° angle down and [sides] 102°, 14° down angle?

Any advice would e greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

Charles Hartfield

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As I inch closer to the day I redo my table with new cloth and new rubber I fulling intend to make the pockets play the best they can. I have miter saw, a digital angle finder and experience woodworking as well as set up a table or 3. So what is the best angles to shoot for; [corners] 141° and 14° angle down and [sides] 102°, 14° down angle?

Any advice would e greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

I would get in contact with Trent from Toledo.
 

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
Your entry angles are good.

What size openings are you shooting for?

What kind of table is it? I think I recall that it's an Olhausen...

If you are going with 4 1/2" pockets, I would recommend 12 degrees downward angle. Tightening the pockets reduces the slate shelf. Because of this, it's generally preferred to back off on the downward angle, to make up the difference.

Diamonds use 14 degrees downward angle, because they have such deep shelf slates.
 

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Your entry angles are good.



What size openings are you shooting for?



What kind of table is it? I think I recall that it's an Olhausen...



If you are going with 4 1/2" pockets, I would recommend 12 degrees downward angle. Tightening the pockets reduces the slate shelf. Because of this, it's generally preferred to back off on the downward angle, to make up the difference.



Diamonds use 14 degrees downward angle, because they have such deep shelf slates.
I see no markings on the table so I don't know what brand it is, it may have been a homemade table. It's looks as quality as any furniture grade tables I have seen apart, good 1" 3 piece slate with a solid frame. See pic

I am not equipped or have the funds to pay someone to extend my sub-rails so I will be going with the 3/8" neoprene 50 durometer facings(link below) since the reviews are good enough for my budget. I had an Olhausen years back I had the subrails extended and as far as I know he didn't alter the pocket angles and the table played horrible. Imagine the Olhausen death rattle with 1/2" smaller targets. See pic.

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42f4e256e94c4260d7d2f6c6d318d127.jpg
7ce4352723d6e7d78783a758eada8c55.jpg
 
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tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would get in contact with Trent from Toledo.
Trent from Toledo?

Any more info you can provide? I'm looking to do the work myself, not pay someone so unless trend is giving out free advice I am not sure what he can do for me.

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bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
I think that you should be fine with 141 x 12 degrees. However, if you are looking for something a bit more forgiving, you could perhaps increase the downward angle.

3/8" facings should work fine. Did you source it from Amazon? I often buy strips of 2"x10' of various thickness. Generally, 3/16", 1/4", and sometimes 3/8".
 

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I think that you should be fine with 141 x 12 degrees. However, if you are looking for something a bit more forgiving, you could perhaps increase the downward angle.



3/8" facings should work fine. Did you source it from Amazon? I often buy strips of 2"x10' of various thickness. Generally, 3/16", 1/4", and sometimes 3/8".
I have not, maybe I should do that since I am helping a friend recover his table and replace the rubber. It would be nice to have our tables set up identical. He already got his cloth and accufast cushions, I am more than likely going the same brand cloth just a different color but intend to do accufast cushions as well.

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tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I think that you should be fine with 141 x 12 degrees. However, if you are looking for something a bit more forgiving, you could perhaps increase the downward angle.



3/8" facings should work fine. Did you source it from Amazon? I often buy strips of 2"x10' of various thickness. Generally, 3/16", 1/4", and sometimes 3/8".
Do you think 6"x"6" is enough for 1 table?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P5VEWEO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_o27ZEb533DTZZ

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tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
Jinx!

So get 2 of the last Amazon link I sent?

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Ha! You're too quick for me. I added this link to my previous post:

https://www.amazon.com/33-005-375-0...+50A+3/8"&qid=1590680901&s=industrial&sr=1-26

When you receive it, you'l want to spray it down with a solvent, to remove any oil residue. Also, you'll want to scuff it up with maybe some 80 grit sandpaper. This will help the contact cement adhere to it. I prefer to sand it in strip form, as it's a lot easier than after they are cut.
 

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ha! You're too quick for me. I added this link to my previous post:



https://www.amazon.com/33-005-375-0...+50A+3/8"&qid=1590680901&s=industrial&sr=1-26



When you receive it, you'l want to spray it down with a solvent, to remove any oil residue. Also, you'll want to scuff it up with maybe some 80 grit sandpaper. This will help the contact cement adhere to it. I prefer to sand it in strip form, as it's a lot easier than after they are cut.
Thanks for the link and advice.

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tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
That's gonna play really tough

"That's gonna"?

These are two different pics, the pocket pic is a table I owned like 8 years ago and ended up selling it. I measured the angle with a digital gauge using this pic and sure enough it was 145 degrees as all Olhausens are and this is why the table played like garbage after I had the sub-rails extended.

The sencond pic is the table I recently bought. This is the sellers pic from his listing with the cloth photoshopped to take out all the crap he had on it in the picture. It is all apart now and I am slowly working on refinishing it.

I just want to do it right this time and make the angles right if I am going to be replacing the rubber/facings and cloth.
 

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Your entry angles are good.

What size openings are you shooting for?

What kind of table is it? I think I recall that it's an Olhausen...

If you are going with 4 1/2" pockets, I would recommend 12 degrees downward angle. Tightening the pockets reduces the slate shelf. Because of this, it's generally preferred to back off on the downward angle, to make up the difference.

Diamonds use 14 degrees downward angle, because they have such deep shelf slates.

To be clear, should I go 14° on any table that I'm not tightening up the pockets? Meaning I have a friend that has almost an identical table and I'm trying to convince him to tighten his pockets up using thicker facings but I don't know if he's going to want to go that direction, so for you standard facings we should just do like diamond of14° of 12° as well? I guess I'm confused, deaper shelf means you should go bigger down angle?
 

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
To be clear, should I go 14° on any table that I'm not tightening up the pockets? Meaning I have a friend that has almost an identical table and I'm trying to convince him to tighten his pockets up using thicker facings but I don't know if he's going to want to go that direction, so for you standard facings we should just do like diamond of14° of 12° as well? I guess I'm confused, deaper shelf means you should go bigger down angle?

For a deeper shelf, it may be desirable to have a steeper downward angle. This will help to throw the ball into the pocket. Many tables don't have as deep a shelf as a Diamond, so you don't need such a steep angle. I generally use 12 degrees on most all tables that I work on, but there are outliers.

In your case, I would recommend 12 degrees downward on all pockets. 141 corner entry and 102 side entry, if you can get it. Most tables are 104+ degrees at the sides, and it can be a bit tricky when you go to reduce the angle. There are different ways to accomplish it, but you want to be sure that you don't remove too much wood. You'll see what I mean, when you get into it.
 
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