A discussion about cue weight/balance and how they relate to the stroke.

Drop The Rock

1652nd on AZ Money List
Silver Member
I'm not sure if this has been experimented or not or if it has been discussed already.

We have:
A 58" 19oz cue with a 4oz shaft and 15 oz butt
A 58" 19 oz cue with a 3 oz shaft and 16 oz butt
A 58" 19 oz cue with 5 oz shaft and 14 oz butt.

Butt and shaft tapers are all the same.

I don't believe any of these cues can produce more or less spin than the other.

My question is, do any of these cues require more or less energy to produce the same tip speed with the same pull back distance, grip and bridge placement?

While on the topic of pull back distance:

Which do you think produces more cueball spin/speed.

a 12" pullback with a 6" follow through or a 6" pullback with a 12" follow through?
 

Island Drive

Otto/Dads College Roommate/Cleveland Browns
Silver Member
I'm not sure if this has been experimented or not or if it has been discussed already.

We have:
A 58" 19oz cue with a 4oz shaft and 15 oz butt
A 58" 19 oz cue with a 3 oz shaft and 16 oz butt
A 58" 19 oz cue with 5 oz shaft and 14 oz butt.

Butt and shaft tapers are all the same.

I don't believe any of these cues can produce more or less spin than the other.

My question is, do any of these cues require more or less energy to produce the same tip speed with the same pull back distance, grip and bridge placement?

While on the topic of pull back distance:

Which do you think produces more cueball spin/speed.

a 12" pullback with a 6" follow through or a 6" pullback with a 12" follow through?




This is sometimes impossible w/o a dbl hit, the other way dbl hit not probable.
 

jburkm002

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have no idea. However I do believe if you shot 20 draw shots with each. You may get different results. Not so much because of the cue. Just one cue fits your stroke better. Meaning hitting the cue ball where intended. While the others could tend to hit lower or higher then where intended. I had a cue and added weight bolts. What seemed like the same stroke. Was actual causing me to hit lower on the cue ball. Which many times had the cue jumping over the object ball. Weird but that's what was happening. Had a friend try and he was getting the same results. Took the weights out and the cue played fine. Guess it adjusted my stroke.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

couldnthinkof01

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I dont know about more speed or spin but the combo of 4oz+ shaft and 14.5 oz butt feels like the best balance while the cue is swinging during my stroke. Feels a bit forward(thats how i like it) my mind/arm combo dictates speed on its own, i just pick the spot i want the cuball to stop and it takes care of itself
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure if this has been experimented or not or if it has been discussed already.

We have:
A 58" 19oz cue with a 4oz shaft and 15 oz butt
A 58" 19 oz cue with a 3 oz shaft and 16 oz butt
A 58" 19 oz cue with 5 oz shaft and 14 oz butt.

Butt and shaft tapers are all the same.

I don't believe any of these cues can produce more or less spin than the other.

My question is, do any of these cues require more or less energy to produce the same tip speed with the same pull back distance, grip and bridge placement?

While on the topic of pull back distance:

Which do you think produces more cueball spin/speed.

a 12" pullback with a 6" follow through or a 6" pullback with a 12" follow through?

There is no difference. Your backhand does all the work. From a physics standpoint, all your back arm knows is that it's pushing 19 ounces. The center of gravity doesn't make a difference. For example, if you were going to push a car. Would it be any easier if the car's center of gravity was in the front or the back? No, it doesn't change the amount of work needed to push the car.
 

Skippy27

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
[/B]

This is sometimes impossible w/o a dbl hit, the other way dbl hit not probable.

You will only double hit a ball for 1 of 2 reasons:
1.) You do not have enough space after the cue to accommodate your follow through before the cue ball makes contact with something (ball, rail).
2.) You are still accelerating after contact with the cue ball.

To the original post there are a few things that are going to affect this:
Accuracy of where you strike the cue ball.
Speed at which you strike the cue ball.
Acceleration through the cue ball.

Regardless of backstroke and or length of follow through, those are the only things that are going to affect the back spin so it ultimately comes down to the person and how well they can do each of those things at a given backstroke/follow through.
 

Lesh

One Hole Thinkifier
Silver Member
I have no idea. However I do believe if you shot 20 draw shots with each. You may get different results. Not so much because of the cue. Just one cue fits your stroke better. Meaning hitting the cue ball where intended. While the others could tend to hit lower or higher then where intended. I had a cue and added weight bolts. What seemed like the same stroke. Was actual causing me to hit lower on the cue ball. Which many times had the cue jumping over the object ball. Weird but that's what was happening. Had a friend try and he was getting the same results. Took the weights out and the cue played fine. Guess it adjusted my stroke.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Agreed. Get the Cue weight modulated to what feels good to you personally and you will just have better feel for any kind of shot, draw included. I like the weight modulated more toward the front of the cue personally. I like the feeling of the shaft heavy in my bridge hand... confidence that I know precisely where the cue is.

Regards
 

LAMas

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Agreed. Get the Cue weight modulated to what feels good to you personally and you will just have better feel for any kind of shot, draw included. I like the weight modulated more toward the front of the cue personally. I like the feeling of the shaft heavy in my bridge hand... confidence that I know precisely where the cue is.

Regards

I shoot mostly with an open bridge and like the weight forward.
 

Corwyn_8

Energy Curmudgeon
Silver Member
a 12" pullback with a 6" follow through or a 6" pullback with a 12" follow through?

The cue ball only knows what happens when the cue tip is in contact with it.

Which is not to say that pull back and follow through aren't important. They are, because the change what happens during that brief interlude. But I would be very leery of asserting a correlation for everyone.

12" pullback and 6" follow through is, I suspect, going to feel more natural for most people, as the acceleration and deceleration will be more uniform.

Thank you kindly.
 

Drop The Rock

1652nd on AZ Money List
Silver Member
The cue ball only knows what happens when the cue tip is in contact with it.

Which is not to say that pull back and follow through aren't important. They are, because the change what happens during that brief interlude. But I would be very leery of asserting a correlation for everyone.

12" pullback and 6" follow through is, I suspect, going to feel more natural for most people, as the acceleration and deceleration will be more uniform.

Thank you kindly.

My point is, many players who think that they need follow through don't realize what they are doing with their pullback. Changing that length will change what happens to the cue ball. I also agree that contact should be when your forearm is perpendicular to the ground. I'm not saying 12" and 6" are optimal. What I am saying is that players should experiment with their pull back distance. I'd bet most who did would stop looking for the magical tip/shaft combo to draw their rock.
 

garczar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As to the pullback/swing through you might want to ask one Alan Hopkins. His pullback might be 2" tops and he can draw his rock pretty well.
 

zpele

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You will only double hit a ball for 1 of 2 reasons:
1.) You do not have enough space after the cue to accommodate your follow through before the cue ball makes contact with something (ball, rail).
2.) You are still accelerating after contact with the cue ball.

To the original post there are a few things that are going to affect this:
Accuracy of where you strike the cue ball.
Speed at which you strike the cue ball.
Acceleration through the cue ball.

Regardless of backstroke and or length of follow through, those are the only things that are going to affect the back spin so it ultimately comes down to the person and how well they can do each of those things at a given backstroke/follow through.

I'm not so sure this is true. Your backhand is not necessarily at the butt of the cue. Different shots require your backhand to be in different places on the butt so moving the balance point on the cue would change the way it feels. I would assume (maybe incorrectly) that a difference in feel can be directly translated to a difference in the force a stroke requires.
 

MitchAlsup

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
We have:
A 58" 19oz cue with a 4oz shaft and 15 oz butt

Let me examine only one cue, listed above. but examine 2 different cues with those same weights.

Cue 1: the but and shaft are made with carbon fiber (light, stiff) and all of the weight is at the end of the but and up at the ferrule on the shaft.

Cue 2: the but and shaft are made with carbon fiber (light, stiff) and all of the weight is at the join on both but and shaft.

Cue 1 will have massive deflection
Cue 2 will have less deflection than the least deflecting shaft on the market today.

Both will play horribly because it is not how much either of the things weight--it is where that weight is positioned.
 
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