T8 led bulb help
- Thread starter Msleight
- Start date
Nowadays you can get replacement tubes that are direct replacements.
You may need to contact a supply house.
Of course try the Big Box stores first.
In the past.....
You had to remove the ballast and apply 120VAC directly to the tube.
Be aware of the options.......
Color Temp
Should be close to 3800K
Higher is too blue and harsh
Lower is very yellow.
CRI - Color Rendering Index
90+ Shows the correct colors of the balls, cloth, skin.
The lower the number the more off colors will look.
The higher the number the better.
Beware....most lamps only put out light on one side of the tube.
Better to buy Three or Four 1x2 or 2x2 LED panels and place them in a hood.
You may need to contact a supply house.
Of course try the Big Box stores first.
In the past.....
You had to remove the ballast and apply 120VAC directly to the tube.
Be aware of the options.......
Color Temp
Should be close to 3800K
Higher is too blue and harsh
Lower is very yellow.
CRI - Color Rendering Index
90+ Shows the correct colors of the balls, cloth, skin.
The lower the number the more off colors will look.
The higher the number the better.
Beware....most lamps only put out light on one side of the tube.
Better to buy Three or Four 1x2 or 2x2 LED panels and place them in a hood.
That's what I was trying to find out if 5000k was to much and I have seen cri from low all the way to 2000 cri. So was trying to figure out what people have had good luck with. I thought about led panels but can't afford that at the moment and trying to get the lights finished before my table gets installed
CRI Is 0-100.
Linear fluorescent light bulbs that have a CRI of 90 or higher.
If you want a high color rendering bulb to produce light perceived as warm white, choose a bulb with a color temperature of 3000K or 3500K. If you want a high color rendering bulb to produce light perceived as white, choose a bulb with a color temperature of 4000K. For a bulb that simulates daylight, choose a color temperature of 5000K or higher.
HIGH CRI LIGHT BULBS
The colors of Spring are a reminder how important color is in our lives. The subtle color variations of an iris blooming in the yard on a clear day can easily be seen and appreciated. The same iris in a vase at the office might not look quite as colorful. Why? Because it is the light source illuminating an object that determines how well humans see color.
CRI, or color rendering index, is a numerical scale (0 to 100) used in lighting to indicate how a light source will make the color of an object appear to human eyes. The higher the number, the better the color rendering ability.
In many cases, this difference is not important. However, for certain applications such as illuminating art or comparing fabric in retail clothing stores, CRI can make all the difference. There is also evidence that high CRI bulbs might be perceived to be brighter which could allow for the installation of lower wattage bulbs to save energy. Topbulb offers high CRI lighting options for fluorescent, halogen and metal halide bulbs.
All incandescent and halogen light bulbs, by definition, have a CRI close to 100. They are excellent at rendering color. However, except for some halogen bulbs, most incandescents produce a warm 2800K color temperature. The only way to achieve the bluish white appearance of daylight with incandescent bulbs is to use bulbs coated with neodymium. However, these bulbs have a CRI much lower than 90. They are not good for accurate color rendering across the spectrum.
My local room has the gold crown lights from 10 years ago. The owner just swapped all of its fluorescent tubes for LED tubes. Huge improvement. Even made the cloth look like new.
I didn't think about the led tubes only shining in one direction unless you get the high priced ones. So not sure if those would work. Maybe it's best to just use the t8 tubes until I have money to get led panels but that will not be fun getting the light off the ceiling with the table there the lights are screwed to the ceiling with the low 7ft ceilings needed all the room I could get
5000K is called Daylight.
Very harsh, bluish.
Lumen is the amount of light output.
BCA says: The bed and rails of the table must receive at least, 2,200 lumen, 520 lux (48 footcandles) of light at every point. No shadows in corners.
Just found this great site for LED lighting calculations.
http://led.bannerengineering.com/plan-your-project/lux-lumen-calculator/
Your eyes and camera are adjusting for the color temp of the lamps.
Take a picture with the "White Balance" set to outdoors.
Then take a picture.
Anyone remember taking film pictures in an office and the pictures looked very Green under "cool white" fluorescents?
or how your skin looked under cheap fluorescents? Green?
Our eyes adjust somewhat to a 5000K or 6000K lamp and we think looks nice and bright.
Daylight lamps are very cool and bluish.
Long term your eyes will be stressed.
That's why old Pool cloth looks "New" under Blue 5000/6000K lighting.
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Answered your PM, but I'll repeat it here. Duracell LEDs from a place called Batteries+Bulbs. They have an online store.
On a green table, I found the 5000Ks were indeed too harsh, as has been said. On the Tournament Blue cloth, though, they look fantastic. Actually easier on the eyes than anything else.
I went with warm to neutral lighting when I had green cloth on it (Championship 760).
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No, dammit. The table looks fine and the eye relief is superb. I've played for hours and hours with this lighting on this cloth, and there is virtually zero eye stress. That "old cloth" is about a year old.
I had a warmer incandescent light over the green cloth, then switched to neutral right before my new cloth was installed. Decent, but not great. Went to 5000K with the blue and could not be happier.
BTW, other than TV cameras that need to be white balanced, I have yet to see a normal amateur camera that had much, if any, white balance adjustment. The photo I took is the way the ****ing table looks.
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