Refinish a vintage Rich Q cue

I've got a mid 70s Rich Q cue that has seen better days. The lacquer finish is pretty yellow and has been abraded away in places, enough so the joint is starting to corrode. I's like to refinish well enough to make a playable cue that looks more like it did when new.

The yellowed lacquer on the butt cap came off quite easily with just the side of a screwdriver and I just plan on doing a polish after reinstalling it. The bolt was a bit of a bear to get out even though it wasn't fully seated (the butt cap could rotate), should I plan on doing more than just cleaning the threads a bit with a wire wheel? Should I maybe use a bit of paste wax on the threads before it goes back in? What about gluing the butt cap, or is it supposed to just be seated by the bolt?

I'm thinking of masking the wrap, chucking up in the lathe and taking of the current finish with sand paper, then using finer and finer grit sandpaper until the surface is fully smooth, the re-shooting a clear coat. I might want to go with a finer polish on the stainless joint if it doesn't shine up to a brushed look with the sandpaper.

I don't have the original shaft for this cue, the one that came with it is off a plane jane sneaky pete. I do have a blank shaft though and judging by the cues offered in the 1976 brochure I should have a black band, then mother of pearl, then another black to match the other side of the stainless. Where is a good place to source that material? I assume you turn the shaft to an interference fit for the three bands then glue them. The thread on the butt side of the joint is 5/16-18, I assume I'll want an insert on the shaft side? At first glance they seem to be relatively easy to find.

I'm a bit of a newbie at this, as is probably obvious, and I'd appreciate any thoughts or pointers you can waft my way.

I'm out of town this week, my wife had heart surgery yesterday, but there are a couple more pictures in my ID post in the main forum. I'll take some better shots when I get home, this weekend or early next week.

OK, I'm back at home and can take some pics, sorry for any quality issues, I'm just using the phone. The one showing the joint is the biggie, I'll want to duplicate the black, pearl, black combo on the shaft. My original questions all still hold though, in regards to tips for refinishing it.

I'm not quite ready to start on this one, I've got a trash cue to play with for a bit first, I'm going to redo the clear coat and add a wrap to it in order to verify my skills. I'm having a tough time trying to find a match for the pearl rings on the Rich Q though. I believe once the finish is off they'll be white instead of yellowed, but the white pearl examples I find online at places like Atlas don't have good enough images to help me think they'll be close. If anyone has a suggestion for a source, please PM me. I believe the black should be easy, though there seem to be a lot of material choices. ABS, Deltrin, Phenolic and PVC are all options on Atlas I'm leaning toward Deltrin.

No, if I didn't want to learn I wouldn't be asking questions.

I was just working off the pictures, it looked like a nicer surface than the phenolic. I'll have to turn whatever I use down to fit the shaft, after I've turned that down as well. With a little Googling I think I see that Delrin is an acytal resin thermoplastic which I would think be workable with an epoxy. My experience with plastics are likely more in the 3D printer world, where melt temperatures and shrinkage while cooling are more of a factor than machinability and glue types.

What should I be using? I believe I'm looking for something I can put a nice polish on that will also allow me to cut cleanly and not heat up or deform while turning. What else should I look for?

Heheh, searching for "Pearl plastic" was an eye opener. Lots of plastic surgery hits and even more tampons. "Plastic pearl" of course gives bazillions of round beads. I had tried pearlescence rods with a bit more luck... Maybe Opalescence?