United pool table

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have an old United pool table. It's actually in pretty damn good shape. The Slate is flat, and it's not all beat up. I bought it from an old lady that wanted it out of her house. I assumed it belonged to her deceased husband. Paid 150 bucks for it, and it came with two sets of balls and a 2001 JP J-14 stick ($450 msrp). I'd say I got a pretty good deal on it. She knew what she had. She just wanted it gone. I obliged.

Here's my dilemma... I believe the cushions were replaced and it appears that k66 cushions were put on it. From the rail facing to the tip of the cushion is an 1 1/8. Problem is, the cushions are too high. The pic looks like they are very close to 1 7/16. Would like to get them between 1 3/8 and 1 7/16. They play kind of dead. It's also possible they're just wore out.

I was wondering if any of you Old-Timers they have worked on United tables remember what profile cushions came on this originally?

The only other solution I can think of would be a little intensive. That would be planning the bottom of the Rails so I can raise this Slate a little bit. I know it's not an expensive table but it's a nice table. And for what I got invested in it I can afford to do a little bit. I'm going to put on new cushions, and Championship Worsted Ultra. I should probably stick with the Mercury Ultra or the valley Teflon, but I've been itching to try this worsted Ultra. Might be a little too fast for a 7-foot, but I can live with that.

The other reason I think the table has had work done on it is the corner pockets are about 4 5/8 ". I thought that was a little uncommon for pockets that tight on a cheaper Bar Box, but I suppose it's possible it's factory.
 

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Lawnboy77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I noticed that you are fairly close to Jack Zimmerman, a good mechanic up there in northern Indiana. I think if I were you I'd give him a call. Judging from the pics it looks like you may have more issues than just choosing the right profile cushion. The subrail depth on yours appears to be short of the usual 2 inches, which screws up the pocket shelves. Notice how the side pocket openings stick out past the nose of the cushions. What I suspect is the same thing that someone did to my table way back in the day, they recut the bevel to get the right nose height for K-66 cushions which in itself will tighten the pockets a bit, but you lose pocket shelf when that is done without keeping the standard depth of the subrail. Heck, you might be able to put Ridgeback rails on that table. Anyway give Jack a call, I hear nothing but good things about his work and it's expensive to ship rails so you might be able to save a bunch without having to ship.

Rex

Contact info for Jack

Jack Zimmerman
www.billiardmechanix.net
812 756-756-2899
 
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buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Is this what you mean? I measured to the aluminum back plate as it is part of the rail assembly.

The playing surface dimensions dont add up either. 38.5 w X 79 L. That's why I dont want to put too much in it. I could get a decent Valley for 500 or 600 around here.
 

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buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I took a rail apart. It doesn't look like its been re profiled. The angle is between 20 and 23 deg. I'll get a precise measurement when I get a better tool. The profile face is 1 1/4 in. The cushion that came off was definitely a k-66.
1 1/8" top, 1 3/16" glue side.

I guess I'll use the K-66 and mount them slightly below flush with the top of the rail. It won't fix my playing surface dimensions, but it was probably made that way. Good enough to practice on.
 

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm progressing (finally) on my table.
Have a question.....

Background.... my previous cushion height was 1 1/2". Played dead as dead can be. Put on new k66 rubber and recovered subrail with worsted cloth. Turned out very well. Better then some of the work I've seen on the tables on town.

Sub Rails... 1 5/8 thick... 23 to 24 deg angle.
k 66 cushions...

I cut 1/8" off the bottom of the subrails (before new cushions were installed) so I could shim the slate up. They still mount in the same location. That was not altered. I put 3/16" shims under all contact points under the slate.

My cushion height is now 1 5/16". A little on the low side. But the ball wont jump even when I throw it pretty damn hard.

The object ball comes off the rail well, but it tends to slide. Should I lower the slate to get closer to 1 3/8"? Or leave well enough alone? I do have 1/8" shims available. Still have old cloth on bed for the moment, so the slide is not from new cloth.

Edit.... to add, I was careful to get the cloth tight without pulling the nose of the cushion down. It did pull down a little, but after stapling and letting go of the cloth, it would spring back up. BOY! I bet you table mechanics have a firm handshake! It sure works those hand muscles!
 

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realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
First off, the cushion blocks are not mounted correctly to the top rails. You see that little thin metal strip at the top backside of the cushion blocks, the rails mount below that metal strip, and tuck up under it when tightened up. Clean the glue off the slate, that'll lower the nose height and allow the rails to be mounted correctly.
 

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ok. I that's how they were when I got it. Never worked on a United till this one and I wasn't sure. That should rotate the rails up slightly and that might get my 1 3/8" nose height. Thanks. Will let you know.
 
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realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Ok. I that's how they were when I got it. Never worked on a United till this one and I wasn't sure. That should rotate the rails up slightly and that might get my 1 3/8" nose height.

Make sure the rail is under the metal strip before you tighten it up, you can angle it back a little to line it up.
 

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thank Glen. You da man. I didn't get the glue off of the slate, but I did remove the 3/16 shims and replaced with 1/8. That allowed me to get the top of the cushion blocks under the lip of the aluminum. Perfect! 1-13/32". The ball slides normally on rebound. On My Way!
 

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realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Thank Glen. You da man. I didn't get the glue off of the slate, but I did remove the 3/16 shims and replaced with 1/8. That allowed me to get the top of the cushion blocks under the lip of the aluminum. Perfect! 1-13/32". The ball slides normally on rebound. On My Way!

Very few mechanics know that the cushion blocks mount under that aluminum trim.
 

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Well its done! Turned out really well . The rails were near perfect. Only mistake was a side pocket cushion facing didn't get trimmed quite enough. It sticks up under the cloth a little. The 1/4 facing are a little harder to work with.

The bed cloth turned out really good. It's all nice and tight, the pocket stretches are all perfect. I can see curves in the weave of the cloth in spots. But I'll learn from it and do better next time. Its not to bad but noticable.

The pockets are definitely tighter. Can't get two balls into the jaws of the corners. They are about 4 1/4". The sides are also much tighter...about 4 1/2".

Now the bad... somehow a stray drop of glue got on the cloth, and I didn't notice it in time to get it cleaned off properly. I cleaned it off with acetone and the glue is gone but left a stain. That really PISSED ME OFF! But it might fade over time. I'll have to live with it.

But it really plays good. A lot more action. But the pockets are harder. Just what I wanted.

Oh... and Glen, I took your advice took the time to clean as much glue off that I could. Much cleaner job.
 

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trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
Looks great man, I am sure it feels nice to get it done and playin the way you want! Congrats.

Trent from Toledo
 

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks. All the cushion nose heights are spot on now...plays like it should. It will do for a garage table.
 
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