Aiming systems

av84fun

Banned
CaptainJR said:
Your are correct on this Patrick. As a matter of fact on non-back cuts where the object ball is say within three inches of the rail and more than two diamonds up the rail. In other words a rail shot. This visual queue you are talking about is all I use. No need for anything else. It makes it very plain where I need to hit the object ball with the cue ball.

Hi Capt.
I've been thinking a lot about what you said above and in a post to me. On the rail shot you write about above, can you share with me what the "visual cue" is that you get from the rail and how you use it?

Of course, with the OB close to the rail as in your example, the OB can stike the rail more than a diamond up table and still go..with pocket speed and depending on pocket size...but you know what I mean.

So, is the "cue" you are referring to a mental process of deciding to cut the shot a little thick..if anything...to aviod pointing out off the left point (shooting at the right corner)...or what?

On the aiming system issue, you mentioned that you shot the "double spot shot" often and with a high pocket percentage.

OK...then would you agree that whether you use the tip to aim or not...when you aim your own way and the shot goes in the center (center ball hit...constant speed for all attempts) that intentionally or not, the tip pointed to exactly the same spot on the CB (given the above assumptions) on every shot?

Assuming you answer "yes" then SOME players (and I would GUESS a fairly large percentage) will feel that aiming with the tip is a natural, intuitive process that does not require imagining clock system points on BOTH balls...ball fraction points on BOTH balls...or trying to mentally freeze the ghost ball in place after you line the shot up and take your stance...or anything similar because the "rifle barrel" is obviously pointing at a specific place.

I suppose one could argue that you have to imagine the specific targets on the CB for TP 1 and 2 but A) at least you only have to imagine ONE point and B) pointing the tip a half tip or 1 tip off center is so intuitive that I think few would have trouble with that.

So, if we disregard everything else, it seems to me that
A) As always assuming a center ball hit at a moderage speed, there is an exact spot that the tip will point at to make the OB drop every time.

B) Rifle type aiming is extremely intuitve for most people and therefore
C) A cue tip aiming method may well be the best approach for a great many players.

Does that make any sense to you and if so then you might come to agree that there are SOME shots that you find both frequently occuring and troublesome to pocket where a cue tip aiming system might be advantageous on THOSE shots if no others.

If THAT is true, then many might feel that exploring which shots work and which don't to be a useful exercise.

Regarding shots that don't go, please refer to a System Edits title that I will post soon.

Regards,
Jim
 

Mike_Mason

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
av84fun is on to something...

I have an awful hard time passing up an opportunity to quote from my movie...er book...WONDERBOYS...so here is something from pp 83-84...

I'm reluctant to give for free what is worth the price of the book but I like you guys...and this thread is appropriate and so obscure I might not be giving away the store...so here goes...I put spaces in the copy for easier readability...

This happened in real life pretty close to the description in the book...only it wasn't Del it was Nicky Vlahos...




?I'm going to play some spot shots. You just spot the ball for me, and let me know when you think I'm on to something.?

I said O.K., and placed the nine ball on the foot spot and stepped back to watch.

Del placed his cue ball, as he explained, at the intersection of the first diamond on the top rail and the second diamond on the side rail. He then moved it back a hair to make it legal.

He used an open bridge, stroked like silk three times and sent the cue ball toward the nine with average speed. The nine split the corner pocket with a click on the little pad at the bottom of the leather pocket. I've seen that before.

I set up the nine again and stepped back. Del made the spot shot the same way at the same speed. And again. And again. Here we go. Ten in a row. Twenty. Thirty. Forty. Fifty.

Del moved his cue ball to the left side. Ten spot shots. Twenty. Thirty. Forty. Fifty. Fifty spot shots in a row from the right side, fifty from the left side. No misses.

?Well, what do you think??

?I'm not sure. I don?t expect you to miss a spot shot but a hundred out of a hundred is impressive. I see you're using the overhand bridge, but what I'm seeing more than anything is the speed. You're hitting the cue ball at exactly the same speed every time. That's pretty consistent.?

?Consistent. That's the word. It works every time. All you have to do is stroke it right and it goes. Here, try it.?

The first part of the secret is the angle. It has to be somewhere near the angle of a spot shot. The second part is the speed. It has to be stroked medium speed, too hard will undercut, too soft will overcut. Smoothness counts. Stay down. Follow through. The best part of the secret is the new way of looking at things.

Instead of aiming the shot in the usual way, the way we learned from Mosconi's book, all you do now is use an open bridge so you can see the shaft of the cue, line up the shaft to the edge of the object ball. And stroke the cue ball.

I set the cue ball at the diamond intersection on the right side, made sure I was comfortable, that my cue tip was in the right spot (just a little running english, Del said), took a few warmup strokes, saw that shaft extension meet the edge of the object ball, and split the pocket. Again. And again. Then I missed. Del asked why I missed.

?I hit it too hard. And I poked at it.?

?Excellent. It doesn't take long, does it, to get the speed down. And you have to be smooth.?

I missed a few times on my first ten tries. Then I rattled off thirty in a row and was ready for the left side. Again, a little sputter with the speed control, then by the time I made twenty I was convinced.

?Well, blow me down. Looks like we've got something here, Del.?

He went off about how he had to work out the bugs on the angle. He showed me how ?the system? (he called it the system, or the method, I called it the secret) fades out on extreme or little angle. He gave me the range where it works, that most shots should be in that range anyway, so the system will be in play most of the time.

A few weeks later, I blew his mind by announcing,
?It works on bank shots.?

I had been using the secret in my practice sessions, and for kicks used it on a bank shot, cross side. It split the pocket. I changed the angle. It split the pocket. I banked it cross corner, it split the pocket. This is too easy. This is how Lombard and Del must feel all the time, no matter what I do, the ball goes in. And I don't even have to aim.

Try it. But don't tell anyone I told you.
 

Mike_Mason

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Huh?

In my previous post it looks like quotation marks came out looking like question marks...sorry about that...

Mike
 

jondrums

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hi av, I know its late in the thread, and it sure has gotten bloated, but I thought I would add a little something here.

It looks like your system will work great for some shots. Other shots require very subtle adjustments, or exceptions to the rules. I tried to understand all the exceptions you posted in another thread, but I was fairly overwhelmed.

Obviously you are on to something that works for you. If you are interested in sharing the system so that other people can also have success with it, I think you will need to find a way to clearly and concisely explain the adjustments and exceptions.

A few examples that might illustrate my (and other folks like pj) point:

Here are three shots where the LOC points exactly 1 diamond away from the pocket.

CueTable Help



On the table I play on, none of them work with your suggested aim point of TP3. What adjustments (if any) do you use to make each of these three shots?
Thanks,
Jon
 

av84fun

Banned
Where have you been Mike...while I was getting drawn and quartered!!!

LOL

The SPEED issue hadn't occured to me but of course, he's right. The path deflection that Bob Jewett recently mentioned concerning center line hits but follow, stun and low...that he said were unknown to the pool community as recently as for years ago were unknown to ME until several DAYS ago when he made his post.

And his "sight picture" will be sligthly different than mine given his suggestion of using a little running english whereas mine requires center ball.

But it doesn't make any difference so long as the shooter applies that same sight picture and cueing variables every time.

I think that the MAIN POINT...that I am so grateful for you posting is the thesis that aiming the tip at specific spots on the CB is HIGHLY intuitive and therefore easy for most people to adapt to.

You just sold a book! pm me to exchange details!

(-:
Jim
 

av84fun

Banned
jondrums said:
hi av, I know its late in the thread, and it sure has gotten bloated, but I thought I would add a little something here.

It looks like your system will work great for some shots. Other shots require very subtle adjustments, or exceptions to the rules. I tried to understand all the exceptions you posted in another thread, but I was fairly overwhelmed.

Obviously you are on to something that works for you. If you are interested in sharing the system so that other people can also have success with it, I think you will need to find a way to clearly and concisely explain the adjustments and exceptions.

A few examples that might illustrate my (and other folks like pj) point:

Here are three shots where the LOC points exactly 1 diamond away from the pocket.

CueTable Help



On the table I play on, none of them work with your suggested aim point of TP3. What adjustments (if any) do you use to make each of these three shots?
Thanks,
Jon

Hi Jon. THANKS for your comments and constructive criticism on my explanations. The system is evolving based on input from people like you and when I get time, I will revisit ALL the "rules" and see if I can explain them more clearly and concisely.

I set up all your examples...and even used the same number OBs (-: and here is what I found.

1. The shot with the OB in the kitchen shooting the 1 ball down the 1st diamond string works exactly for me using TP3 as recommended. The only modification I used was to move the CB up to the 1st diamond string so that I didn't have to cue off the rail which CAN encourage cueing errors due to being slightly jacked up. but the CB travels the exact same path so moving it forward along the same line shouldn't change anything...and it went perfectly for me.

Try this. Let's try to eliminate as much stroke error as possible so:

A) use an open bridge...sight the shot at center ball...raise your bridge slowly as though attempting to put LEVEL follow on the shot but KEEP raising your bridge until the tip "peaks" above the CB and then VERIFY that the sight picture that you now have directly between the tip and the OB is correct.

Start over to aim the shot with the tip NO MORE than 1 inch from the center of the OB and then SMOOOOTHLY stroke the shot straight forward with NO back stroke. All I'm trying to do here is eliminate as much possible cueing errors as possible. And as you know, at the slower speeds that these shots should be tested, side will cause more throw than of faster paced shots so you have to be REALLY careful to execute a center ball hit on the CB.

But anyway, the shot goes for me so absent cueing errors on your part OR MINE...that shot should go.

"A" Shot

That one goes for me as well with a SLIGHT tendency to miss to the RIGHT (under cut). Which side do you miss on?

"B" Shot

Does NOT go. Misses to the right. In another thread, I discussed exceptions when one of the points impedes the OBs path to a line drawn to the back center of the pocket. That is the case with the "B" shot. The solution is ALWAYS to use one TP thinner (higher #) and sure enough, with TP4 instead of 3 the shot goes for me.

IN GENERAL I also posted a "mantra" that says..."When in doubt, thin it out."

Therefore, this system will be FAR more useful to B players and up who can pretty well SEE if a shot line looks too thick or too thin.

Don't hold me to this because I am still messing with the system but IN GENERAL it seems that when the system is not "ON" the approach path is to FULL rather than too THIN...so again, When in doubt, thin it out.

Please let me know how you make out when you try these again.

regards,
Jim
 

av84fun

Banned
PS: I would appreciate it if interested parties would migrate to the new thread Cue Tip Aiming System since this thread has become so large and because much of it would be better off buried.

I'll watch this one too for a while though.

THANKS!
Jim
 

klockdoc

ughhhhhhhhhh
Silver Member
av84Fun,

I went to the pool room tonight to check out your "system". I have been reluctant to post earlier because I wanted to make sure I tested the theory before I relayed my thoughts on how I felt that the system would work. Even though I felt I already knew the answer, I felt the need to test before I reported.

Let me be up front with you on several items though. I kind of know what you are going through. I have posted several systems, which I thought were viable in their context. The people that reported my "downfalls"were some of the same that reported yours. My initial problem was "they" seemed to go differently from what I was originally was discussing. ie; I was discussing long rails banks, they were discussing short rail. Not that they were wrong. Although partially correct in my explanation, they pointed out its limitations. It proved the system "incorrect" by using it in this manner, but, I just wanted to be sure that they understood and I understood exactly what you were saying.

PJ, although very "rough" sometimes in his analogy, is very knowledgeable in the geometric findings. Bob also falls into this catagory, (except for the rough). They mean well. nuff said.

JAL, I have great respect for. He has a more open outlook for what he reports on. In fact, I believe he "wants" your system to work!! (notice, not 15). I think his post was right on in how he deciphered it.

Now, for my report. I will include the first shot that you removed.


I was cutting the balls to the right corner. Balls were layered to the left from center.

1st ball. I could not make this aiming at the edge of the OB. In fact, I had to aim the cue tip extreme using right english and point the right edge of the tip to the edge of the OB.

2nd ball Shooting center, the right edge of the tip pointed at left edge of the object ball

3rd ball. This was the center of the tip pointed to the left edge of the object ball.This would be construed as a "half ball hit" in the pool world.

4th ball. This was actually a little bit off from the half ball hit, but, shooting as a half ball hit, I still made the shot. Definitely would have been a problem on a tight pocket table. It did go though.

I think your system is flawed in some aspects. I think that you are compensating for some of the aims, unintentionally, but, you are compensating. The angles that JAL calculated are correct and I can see the angles when approaching the shot. I can see that they are "off" from your reported findings.

Half ball hits, as you described your shots to be are very common shots. You mentioned that there has never been a reported % for these shots. On the SAM supplemental aiming system posted earlier in the archives, it was indicated that these type of shots occur 90% of the time on the table. Although I feel that this number is quite high, (I believe it to be around 75-80%, so there is still hope for your system to work. But, you must realize its limitations.

Hope this helps.
 

av84fun

Banned
Klocckdoc
2nd ball Shooting center, the right edge of the tip pointed at left edge of the object ball

3rd ball. This was the center of the tip pointed to the left edge of the object ball.This would be construed as a "half ball hit" in the pool world.

4th ball. This was actually a little bit off from the half ball hit, but, shooting as a half ball hit, I still made the shot. Definitely would have been a problem on a tight pocket table. It did go though.]/QUOTE]

First, THANKS for your time, effort and the information you posted.

Regarding the shots quoted above, I assume that the tip positions you cite are the ones you needed to make that shots go. Let me address them individually.

2nd Shot
AGREED. The LOC on that shot is very near the outer limit of the TP4 zone. In earlier threads, we (me and those kind souls who are contributing their input) agree that as the LOC borders are approached ONE thinner TP should be used...which is exactly what went for you..i.e. TP5. The slogan I invented was When in doubt, thin it out.

But I think that part of what you established is REALLY important. I think you would now agree that you could set up that shot and put on "blinders" so you couldn't even SEE the pocket...only the CB and OB and could pocket that shot for YEARS without missing.

Shot #3

It seems we agree it goes with TP4 as called for.

Shot #4

Glad it went for you. I cannot explain why, for you, it might not have gone into a smaller pocket because for me, it goes nearly dead center. I just set it up again and created a "new pocket" bywedging 4 balls diagonally in front of the actual pocket and removing the center 2. Obviously, the space between remaining balls is 4.5 inches. I shot the shot and it "split the uprights."

Clearly, I could be commiting aiming or cueing errors. I have tried to reduce them to the smallest minimum by sighting the shot with my tip no more than 1 inch from the dead center of the CB and then not taking ANY back stroke...just smoothly stroking the ball forward. In addition, I use the 9 ball as the CB with its stripe oriented vertically so that of struck dead center the stripe will roll like a tire and if not...it won't.

Therefore, I think I have reduced stroke/cueing errors to nearly zero.

And I ask you with GREAT AND GENUINE RESPECT that I BEG you to accept at face value, that it is equally likely that you are commiting stroke/cueing errors as that I am.


However, you are quite right that I MIGHT be failing to orient the tip as I think I am due to some variable in my visual perception. And frankly, that might be THE most serious problem with the system. I can only report what I SEE and not what someone else might see who attempts to follow the TP rules.


BUT STILL...every individual can create their OWN TP rules with a little time and effort...using mine as a baseline.

Finally, THANKS AGAIN for your time and effort. As noted above, I seems to me that you have established that the tip-to-CB-spot aiming method is extremely viable...without even LOOKING at the pocket...with the only variable being the correct choice of tip-to-CB aim.

If you have kept up with the thread, and the new one I created as sort of a fresh start for obvious reasons, you will see that some important new Exceptions have been posted that SO FAR don't seem to me to be overly cumbersome. But THE most important one is..."When in doubt, thin it out."

But that exception is EXTREMELY "systematic" because you simply use the next higher (thinner) TP number which your own experience proved out on
Shot #2.

I wholeheartedly agree with you that the system is not perfect and it COULD be shown to require so many Exceptions as to cease to be a COMPREHENSIVE system.

I hope it doesn't and don't think it will because a LARGE number of shots go as described. But EVEN IF all the method does is to create an EXACT system for shooting CERTAIN shots that the player finds troublesome then maybe their "win percentage" will rise meaningfully.

Regards,
Jim
 

CaptainJR

Shiver me timbers.
Silver Member
av84fun said:
Hi Capt.
I've been thinking a lot about what you said above and in a post to me. On the rail shot you write about above, can you share with me what the "visual cue" is that you get from the rail and how you use it?

Of course, with the OB close to the rail as in your example, the OB can stike the rail more than a diamond up table and still go..with pocket speed and depending on pocket size...but you know what I mean.

So, is the "cue" you are referring to a mental process of deciding to cut the shot a little thick..if anything...to aviod pointing out off the left point (shooting at the right corner)...or what?

On the aiming system issue, you mentioned that you shot the "double spot shot" often and with a high pocket percentage.

OK...then would you agree that whether you use the tip to aim or not...when you aim your own way and the shot goes in the center (center ball hit...constant speed for all attempts) that intentionally or not, the tip pointed to exactly the same spot on the CB (given the above assumptions) on every shot?

Assuming you answer "yes" then SOME players (and I would GUESS a fairly large percentage) will feel that aiming with the tip is a natural, intuitive process that does not require imagining clock system points on BOTH balls...ball fraction points on BOTH balls...or trying to mentally freeze the ghost ball in place after you line the shot up and take your stance...or anything similar because the "rifle barrel" is obviously pointing at a specific place.

I suppose one could argue that you have to imagine the specific targets on the CB for TP 1 and 2 but A) at least you only have to imagine ONE point and B) pointing the tip a half tip or 1 tip off center is so intuitive that I think few would have trouble with that.

So, if we disregard everything else, it seems to me that
A) As always assuming a center ball hit at a moderage speed, there is an exact spot that the tip will point at to make the OB drop every time.

B) Rifle type aiming is extremely intuitve for most people and therefore
C) A cue tip aiming method may well be the best approach for a great many players.

Does that make any sense to you and if so then you might come to agree that there are SOME shots that you find both frequently occuring and troublesome to pocket where a cue tip aiming system might be advantageous on THOSE shots if no others.

If THAT is true, then many might feel that exploring which shots work and which don't to be a useful exercise.

Regarding shots that don't go, please refer to a System Edits title that I will post soon.

Regards,
Jim


I'm going to come about a little bit. Probably not as much as Jim would like but here goes.

Jim,
You may recall after looking at which back cuts I have a little trouble with, I was surprised to say that the trouble started at the exact point where no part of the cue stick was pointed at any part of the object ball. I said I was going to give that some thought and I have. I believe that the point at which any cut gets to the severity that no part of the cue stick is pointing at any part of the object ball is exactly when the cut becomes much more difficult. I've come to the conclusion that if having some part of the cue stick pointing at the object ball makes such a difference that I must be using that at least to some degree to assist my aiming. Unknowingly up to now.

Don't get to excited Jim. I'm not saying your "aiming system" works. I am saying that using the cue stick as a reference in a rifle shooting manor has merit, a lot of merit. Aiming it at where the aim needs to be, not at a predetermined or one of a few predetermined spots.

I've had some spare time and I have taken a better look at what you have said, taking it to the table and checking it out. With the exclusion of what I said above here, it hasn't changed anything I have said about your system. When a shot has a reduced margin for error, be it the distance of the object ball from the pocket, to another ball blocking part of the pocket, your system is not nearly accurate enough. These difficult shots have to be made also.

Setting that aside and I'm not saying this is true but just for discussion purposes let's say this system might help a beginner make a few more shots at first. It does nothing to help them become a better pool shooter. It gives them nothing to help them learn to make more difficult shots and it doesn't give them a reference point to use when they would get good enough to start using spin. Maybe I'll elaborate on the "reference point to use for spin" later if I find some time.

R,
JR
 
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av84fun

Banned
CaptainJR said:
Jim,
I believe that the point at which any cut gets to the severity that no part of the cue stick is pointing at any part of the object ball is exactly when the cut becomes much more difficult.

First, let's be sure that we are on the same page. The system ONLY works and is only intended to work with CENTER BALL aim.

As you know, using anything other than center ball then the throw inducement is going to change the CB path and any system has to be adjusted for that.

Having said that THROUGH MY EYES there is no shot where the tip will be entirely off the OB with center ball aim...EXCEPT for the specialty shot...TP6 that is intended to shoot many shots that are so thin that they can't be over cut (unless you are vern Elliot!!) )(-:



I've had some spare time and I have taken a better look at what you have said, taking it to the table and checking it out. With the exclusion of what I said above here, it hasn't changed anything I have said about your system. When a shot has a reduced margin for error, be it the distance of the object ball from the pocket, to another ball blocking part of the pocket, your system is not nearly accurate enough. These difficult shots have to be made also.

With GENUINE respect...THANKS! However, with the noted exceptions, the system FOR ME...THROUGH MY EYES is SUPER accurate. I just suggest that any correct system can be made not to work by cueing errors and any system thyat does NOT work can be made to work by cueing errors (consistent errors).

Therefore, it is equally likely that you are committing cueing errors such that the system is not working for you as it is that I am committing such errors that make it work for me.

AND on top of that...as I have often said, humans have widely varying visual perceptions...especially regarding subjects where cross-eye dominance is a facter...and in those cases, one person says that the target is a foot to the left and the other person says it is a foot to the right AND THEY ARE BOTH TELLING THE TRUTH! (-:


Setting that aside and I'm not saying this is true but just for discussion purposes let's say this system might help a beginner make a few more shots at first. It does nothing to help them become a better pool shooter. It gives them nothing to help them learn to make more difficult shots and it doesn't give them a reference point to use when they would get good enough to start using spin. Maybe I'll elaborate on the "reference point to use for spin" later if I find some time.

Again, with respect, YOUR conclusions re: the viability of the system are not universally shared by observers of this thread including a top former WPBA pro. Given such diametric differences of opinion between skilled and honest people, I think that it is fair to conclude that such differing experiences are due to some combination of visual perception and/or cueing errors.


Hopefully, if nothing else, these discussions will lead you to agree that there is SOME tip-to-CB spot which is perfect for any given shot and that more the "rifle sight" aspect of the system merits experimentation.

Thanks for sharing your views.

Regards,
Jim
 
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Mike_Mason

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
av84fun is still right...I think...???

av84fun said:
Where have you been Mike...while I was getting drawn and quartered!!!

LOL

LOL indeed...hey it builds character...

Well to tell you the truth I don't quite know what you're talking about either lol...I just know that you're on to something sighting down the cue shaft...

Like Del (Nicky) said...he's got a few bugs to work out when the angle is too small or too big...maybe that's what you're on to.

Anyway keep up the good work Jim.

WONDERBOYS has only one pool lesson in the whole book and what I quoted in an earlier post is it...it's a short novel and you are welcome to a copy if you want to read the whole story...which was serialized on this website before...anyway just pm me and if you want to give a mailing address I'll shoot a copy out to you...peace

Mike
 

Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
it is equally likely that you are committing cueing errors such that the system is not working for you as it is that I am committing such errors that make it work for me

Except for that little thing about your geometry being wrong.

pj
chgo
 

av84fun

Banned
CaptainJR said:
Jim,
Just one thing yet. On my post on page six I had this 'CueTable' example. You never did tell me how your system differentiates between these shots to the lower left corner pocket??

JR

Somehow, the diagram got corrupted. It just shows several OBs overlapped in a row. I went back to p 6 and the same thing happened so maybe you could post a new diagram.

But in reviewing your p. 6 post you asked whay I didn't use some other existing system that works for all shots.

To the extent that there is such a thing, the central point of my system is that SOME people may find that using the rifle sight cue tip pointing method is more intuitive and involves less "imagination" of ball fractions...clock positions, ghost ball positions etc. than such other systems.

And who says the cue tip aiming system doesn't work for all shots...or at least as many shots as any other system??

There are known Exceptions and certainly will be more but so far each one of them can be adjusted for successfully and systematically.

EVEN IF you are, say, a ghost ball advocate...fine. But when you establish the IMAGINARY ghost ball for it to be useful, you have to keep it in its imaginary place while accomplishing ALL SORTS of other physical and visual activities.

BUT with the cue tip...laser beam system...once you establish the ghost ball's position and aim at it ANY WAY YOU WANT, you will BY DEFINITION have established an EXACT SPOT on the OB where the tip should point...and once you've done that, you can leave the table, have a beer, watch an inning of baseball and come back to the table and pocket the shot WITHOUT EVERY THINKING ABOUT EITHER THE GHOST BALL OR THE POCKET FOR THAT MATTER.

Some will see the value in that and others won't.

Regards,
Jim
 

kildegirl

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
pool

daveb said:
I mostly lurk on this forum and I read countless threads on the pros and cons of the various aiming systems. One of the things that strikes me as odd about these posts, as they discuss personal preferences, is that it seems as though most people only use one of the various systems. When I aim, it only takes a couple of seconds to double check my initial choice with two or more of the other aiming techniques (contact point, ghost ball, point on the rail, clock syestem etc.). I have my preferences like anyone else, but it seems silly to rely on only one technique when each has its own strengths and weaknesses, and each breaks down somewhat under certain conditions. Am I alone in this? Does anyone else use multiple aiming systems on a single shot other than in critical situations?
THERE IS NO DOUBLE CHECK WHEN YOU ALREADY HAVE THE SYSTEM THAT DOES IT ALL. PERIOD.
 
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