If you change the pin of the shaft will that change the hit you get from the shaft ? 
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*Changing of pins
- Thread starter SHORTY WRIGHT
- Start date
If you change the pin of the shaft will that change the hit you get from the shaft ?
As long as you use a conventional pin...I'd say no.
Of course, moving from a very heavy pin to a very light pin-or vice-versa- would affect balance.
.If you change the pin of the shaft will that change the hit you get from the shaft ? ����*
Not many pool cues have a "pin of the shaft".. If you change the shaft thread
to match the thread that's on your butt pin, I don't think it should effect the hit.
IF you know how to do it!
.
If you change the pin of the shaft will that change the hit you get from the shaft ?
I would think that any change you make to a cue will change the way it "HITS" .It may be so minor that you don't notice but I think it would change. I know you're asking about the shaft in general but just removing the bumper can change the way your cue plays.
To me different pins feel different, but that's just me.
Why would you want to change a pin? Is this something you just acquired and it's
different from every shaft you have?
Why would you want to change a pin? Is this something you just acquired and it's
different from every shaft you have?
Before embarking on changing pin as a discussion topic, what pin is in the cue now?
Let’s first embark on some basic pool anatomy before wandering knee deep in weeds.
Early cues produced by some cue-makers had the screw in the shaft face and I think even
Burton Spain tried that approach. Heck, when Richard Black started out in 1975, his first cues
were a flat faced steel that were sturdy with little feel so after a year Richard changed to piloted.
The most popular joint/screw in my opinion is the 5/16x14 piloted steel that has a brass receiver
in the shaft that adds dead weight so a shaft weighing 3.8 ozs is actually only 3.5 ozs of wood,
ferrule and tip whereas the same weight of a flat faced wood joint would contain more wood.
So what type of pin is in the cue now? If it was big pin flat faced wood and you switched to 5/16x14,
would the shaft remain flat faced or converted to piloted? That would definitely change affect the feel.
There are subtle differences that are discernible between the different types of cue joints and screws.
I am not going to elaborate about my affection for flat faced ivory big pin cue joints in this post. I’ve
posted about that on threads in this Forum before. I know some people are going to recite some test
years ago performed with blindfolded players not being able to distinguish. I submit the test was likely
flawed to start with since there are so many things that contribute to a pool cue feeling the way it does.
The majority of players I meet do not understand how a cue is made & if so, it’s probably from watching
You Tube. I guess it doesn't matter since some of them are better players than I am. However, they
appreciate the difference in the hit & feel of a pool cue when I had them experiment with different cues.
Every single player became curious about flat ivory cue joints because they sensed there’s a difference.
Take the time to test different cues but try first to become better acquainted with pool cue anatomy so you
ask the other cue owner intelligent questions that help you understand what was different about that cue.
It is only by trial and error testing that you ultimately ascertain what you like and hopefully, also why you do.
Let’s first embark on some basic pool anatomy before wandering knee deep in weeds.
Early cues produced by some cue-makers had the screw in the shaft face and I think even
Burton Spain tried that approach. Heck, when Richard Black started out in 1975, his first cues
were a flat faced steel that were sturdy with little feel so after a year Richard changed to piloted.
The most popular joint/screw in my opinion is the 5/16x14 piloted steel that has a brass receiver
in the shaft that adds dead weight so a shaft weighing 3.8 ozs is actually only 3.5 ozs of wood,
ferrule and tip whereas the same weight of a flat faced wood joint would contain more wood.
So what type of pin is in the cue now? If it was big pin flat faced wood and you switched to 5/16x14,
would the shaft remain flat faced or converted to piloted? That would definitely change affect the feel.
There are subtle differences that are discernible between the different types of cue joints and screws.
I am not going to elaborate about my affection for flat faced ivory big pin cue joints in this post. I’ve
posted about that on threads in this Forum before. I know some people are going to recite some test
years ago performed with blindfolded players not being able to distinguish. I submit the test was likely
flawed to start with since there are so many things that contribute to a pool cue feeling the way it does.
The majority of players I meet do not understand how a cue is made & if so, it’s probably from watching
You Tube. I guess it doesn't matter since some of them are better players than I am. However, they
appreciate the difference in the hit & feel of a pool cue when I had them experiment with different cues.
Every single player became curious about flat ivory cue joints because they sensed there’s a difference.
Take the time to test different cues but try first to become better acquainted with pool cue anatomy so you
ask the other cue owner intelligent questions that help you understand what was different about that cue.
It is only by trial and error testing that you ultimately ascertain what you like and hopefully, also why you do.
Noooooo kiddin'.