How level is "level" for pool tables?

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Glen, I don't think a lot of people have any idea how flexible the slate on a table is. I know you do and I'm sure you use this flexibility to adjust it to be a good flat and level playing surface. I think a lot of these people think if you get the frame and slate level it will be flat too and not roll off but as you know this just isn't true.

How much does "anal leveling" pay, just wondering?😎
 

bigchase

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Which 21 points?
I'm pretty sure that the boxes in the picture are the points for the level. I would guess you replicate them on all 3 pieces of slate. Or lay them out the same for 1 piece slate. Hey I've been busy didn't notice a post any where how did your trip to China go?

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realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I'm pretty sure that the boxes in the picture are the points for the level. I would guess you replicate them on all 3 pieces of slate. Or lay them out the same for 1 piece slate. Hey I've been busy didn't notice a post any where how did your trip to China go?

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That level placement is a joke!!
 

Korsakoff

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I don’t have a dog in the hunt, but I can’t figure out the 21 points from the diagram in the link.

There are 6 vertical rectangles; that’s 24 points. There is one horizontal rectangle; that’s 4 points.

I’m pretty sure RKC knows what 21 points to which you are referring, but the linked picture seems lacking in explanation. I do see one emphasized point on a horizontal rectangle, so I do understand that reference.

More or less. 😏
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I don’t have a dog in the hunt, but I can’t figure out the 21 points from the diagram in the link.

There are 6 vertical rectangles; that’s 24 points. There is one horizontal rectangle; that’s 4 points.

I’m pretty sure RKC knows what 21 points to which you are referring, but the linked picture seems lacking in explanation. I do see one emphasized point on a horizontal rectangle, so I do understand that reference.

More or less. 😏

The joke is that I check the level in 28 locations, and that just around the perimeter of the slate, and 14 more reading the center of the the slate.....that's 42 places!!!
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
What do you suggest then? You think the tournament tables would pass the level test? Hey man you never did tell me how your trip to China went.

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China was great, heading to Africa, India, China, and Korea next. I can't speak for the level of tables other people work on, only those I do.
 

spktur

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Here you go Glen, get you a set of these cuff links for your shirt and you can shut these people up.
 

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ShootingArts

Smorg is giving St Peter the 7!
Gold Member
Silver Member
Two possibilities ...

Here you go Glen, get you a set of these cuff links for your shirt and you can shut these people up.


Two possibilities with those cuff links. He might shut other people up or the cuff links might prove once and for all that he is half a bubble off! :D:D:D

Hu
 

redcordes

New member
For what it's worth: I feel that checking the center of each of the 3 pieces of slate in both directions with a machinist level is more than adequate. Why just the center? Because 2" slate cannot be bent, warped or otherwise deformed--it is what it is. Obviously, adjustment of the legs will only adjust the entire frame, to a point. And that will probably be an exercise in chasing your tail around, trust me. As long as the bubble isn't "bottomed out" to either side in any of the 6 measurements, the table will play "level"(my level has a sensitivity of .0005 in./12 in. -- PER INCREMENT ! (that's 1/8 the thickness of a sheet of .004 paper). If it is, I bet my bottom dollar you won't be able to determine by rolling balls an out-of-level table. I would think changes in the frame due to aging and temperature/humidity variations are the biggest problem in maintaining a "true" table.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
For what it's worth: I feel that checking the center of each of the 3 pieces of slate in both directions with a machinist level is more than adequate. Why just the center? Because 2" slate cannot be bent, warped or otherwise deformed--it is what it is. Obviously, adjustment of the legs will only adjust the entire frame, to a point. And that will probably be an exercise in chasing your tail around, trust me. As long as the bubble isn't "bottomed out" to either side in any of the 6 measurements, the table will play "level"(my level has a sensitivity of .0005 in./12 in. -- PER INCREMENT ! (that's 1/8 the thickness of a sheet of .004 paper). If it is, I bet my bottom dollar you won't be able to determine by rolling balls an out-of-level table. I would think changes in the frame due to aging and temperature/humidity variations are the biggest problem in maintaining a "true" table.
For the sake of argument, how many tables come with 2" slate that you're aware of????
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
For what it's worth: I feel that checking the center of each of the 3 pieces of slate in both directions with a machinist level is more than adequate. Why just the center? Because 2" slate cannot be bent, warped or otherwise deformed--it is what it is. Obviously, adjustment of the legs will only adjust the entire frame, to a point. And that will probably be an exercise in chasing your tail around, trust me. As long as the bubble isn't "bottomed out" to either side in any of the 6 measurements, the table will play "level"(my level has a sensitivity of .0005 in./12 in. -- PER INCREMENT ! (that's 1/8 the thickness of a sheet of .004 paper). If it is, I bet my bottom dollar you won't be able to determine by rolling balls an out-of-level table. I would think changes in the frame due to aging and temperature/humidity variations are the biggest problem in maintaining a "true" table.
The only table I've worked on in the last 20 years that had a 2" slate was a Connelly Ultimate 9ft, all the rest have either had 30mm or thinner slates, so how many tables have YOU worked on with 2' thick slates????
 

book collector

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
(I posted a variant of this in the Talk to a Mechanic subforum with no replies yet, so I thought I'd broaden the audience.)

What is the tolerance for the level of a pool table?

By this I mean a specification along the lines of a maximum deviation from perfectly level, perhaps expressed as being within some number of inches per foot, like .010"/ft., for example. (We know that using more and more sensitive levels we will find that what appears to be perfectly level with a common level is most likely not level when measured with a more sensitive instrument.)

I've searched high and low, and I can't find any specification for this anywhere, except in the Brunswick Gold Crown I 1961 service manual. That book says to use a 28" carpenter's level, and "late should not be out of level more than 0.020." It's a bit ambiguous, in that it could be 0.020" across 28", or maybe 0.020"/ft. But other than that I can find no specification for level.

Thanks very much.

jv
I bought a used 12 inch Starrett Machinest level, and I think I had it calibrated, {memory is now officially gone} and followed the advice in the Mechanics forum. Mainly Real King Cobra The balls ran true the length and width of the table after I was done and that's all you really need .
 
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jay helfert

Shoot Pool, not people
Gold Member
Silver Member
Rolling the cue ball from end to end and from side to side, all up and down the table will give you a good idea of how level the table is, IF you don't own a machinists level to actually calibrate it. The trick is in how to roll the cue ball, and it is not by shooting it with your cue. What I do is drop the cue ball from about a foot above the table, being careful to have it hit the inside edge of the rail. It takes a little practice to get this move down right. By doing this, there will be no english imparted to the cue ball and you will get a pure roll. If you hit the rail just right the cue ball will roll all the way to the other end of the table and bounce softly off the far end rail. For side to side, just drop it from about six inches. Just watch how it rolls and you will see how level your table is. If you can do this and not see any roll off anywhere, your table is probably within thousandths of being dead level.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
For what it's worth: I feel that checking the center of each of the 3 pieces of slate in both directions with a machinist level is more than adequate. Why just the center? Because 2" slate cannot be bent, warped or otherwise deformed--it is what it is. Obviously, adjustment of the legs will only adjust the entire frame, to a point. And that will probably be an exercise in chasing your tail around, trust me. As long as the bubble isn't "bottomed out" to either side in any of the 6 measurements, the table will play "level"(my level has a sensitivity of .0005 in./12 in. -- PER INCREMENT ! (that's 1/8 the thickness of a sheet of .004 paper). If it is, I bet my bottom dollar you won't be able to determine by rolling balls an out-of-level table. I would think changes in the frame due to aging and temperature/humidity variations are the biggest problem in maintaining a "true" table.
Another problem with your assessment of leveling a pool table! A level that reads 5/10,000 of an inch is so sensitive it'll read the change in the level of the slate just walking around the table unless it's on a concrete floor, so whats your compensation for that?
 

RRfireblade

Grammer Are For Stupids
Silver Member
Rolling the cue ball from end to end and from side to side, all up and down the table will give you a good idea of how level the table is, IF you don't own a machinists level to actually calibrate it. The trick is in how to roll the cue ball, and it is not by shooting it with your cue. What I do is drop the cue ball from about a foot above the table, being careful to have it hit the inside edge of the rail. It takes a little practice to get this move down right. By doing this, there will be no english imparted to the cue ball and you will get a pure roll. If you hit the rail just right the cue ball will roll all the way to the other end of the table and bounce softly off the far end rail. For side to side, just drop it from about six inches. Just watch how it rolls and you will see how level your table is. If you can do this and not see any roll off anywhere, your table is probably within thousandths of being dead level.

That's pretty much my process. I do the usual, straightness with a 4' precision straight edge, then machinist level everywhere, etc.

Then I have a little machined ramp with a height adjustment. I set it so a rolled ball will just make it to the opposite rail and check it across both planes in like 6" increments. If I can get it to roll dead straight from every spot, that's more than good enough for me to go ahead and cover it.

Neither table has moved in the last 5 years here. Fortunately they are on 30 year old hardwood over concrete slab.
 

sammylane12

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
That makes no sense whatsoever. So you cherried out the level on the naked table...then what? You have to lift the slate out, install the felt, then put the slate back, then re-level the table because you moved the slate.
why would lift the slate to install the cloth? I have covered about 50 pool tables and have no idea what you are talking about. Please elaborate.
 
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