SS joint vs ?

Scott Lee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Dave...Just another reason why "feel" is SOOOO subjective to the individual! Even the meaning of the word "feel" is extremely subjective, let alone how that 'feel' is transferred to/through the cue and the person using it. The only real debate is how any cue/joint/ferrule/tip "feels" to the person shooting with it. Like you said, when you really find something you LOVE...you should never part with it! LOL

I think we should do another "blind test" at the DCC in a couple of weeks! You could charge an 'entry fee' of $10; have a dozen cues, with varying characteristics and construction. Then tape them up and do a similar test that John did 25 years ago. See if there are any winners in the big guesses...all the $$$ in the pot goes to the best guesser! In case of ties, pot will be split evenly! This could be fun, as there are so many different cues now, than there were 25-30 years ago! :grin:

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

For what it's worth....

For various reasons I sold my Judd cue that I loved. The one condition was that I could keep the one shaft that is/was my favorite so we made the deal. I had a few 3/8-10 pin cues that I tried to "marry" the butt and my Judd shaft but never really found the same feel or hit that I had w/my old Judd. So after a few years, I bought no less than 12 different cues w/3/8-10 pin so I can find the one that played and felt similar to my old Judd.

So I was using the same shaft, ferrule and tip on each cue on all of the different butts (some w/collars, some w/o and all different woods) and most did not "feel" right. Some performed close but without the "feel". I finally found the one that provided the "feel" and performance I had w/my Judd: A true sneaky pete made from a red leaf Dufferin. No collar, wrap or buttcap, just wood. The diameter of the collar of the butt is a little larger than the shaft, but that's ok.

Conclusion: The butt matters. Whether it's the joint, wood used, wrap, etc I do not know (I'll leave that to the experts), but the butt does matter even when using the same shaft.

By the way, I found the same to be true w/a Runde Schon shaft I have from the mid 80's. I tried many butts to get the same feel and even othe Schon butts felt differently. I found a Jacoby (one of the few piloted stailess joints that would fit a Schon shaft) that "felt" good and settled on that. But by the time I found it I was happy w/my Judd shaft find described above. But I will say that the piloted shaft and joint added a bit of weight to the middle of the cue.

Sorry for the interuption, I hope it was at least a little on point. :)

Dave
 
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Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Trying to post pictures from my cell. Takes a little getting use to.
picture.php

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Top photo. Phenolic, stainless, phenolic, ivory. Different but effective. Next photo. Full stainless. When I use this I bore the inner diameter and put phenolic. Questionable? But it solves my doubt about the pilot being true.
 
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Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Standard 3/8x10
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Uni loc Ghost joint. Check out that insert.
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Above is 4 examples of why and -A- joint may be altered to achieve the desired weight, balance and of course playability. There's more.
 
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qbilder

slower than snails
Silver Member
Dave...Just another reason why "feel" is SOOOO subjective to the individual! Even the meaning of the word "feel" is extremely subjective, let alone how that 'feel' is transferred to/through the cue and the person using it. The only real debate is how any cue/joint/ferrule/tip "feels" to the person shooting with it. Like you said, when you really find something you LOVE...you should never part with it! LOL

I think we should do another "blind test" at the DCC in a couple of weeks! You could charge an 'entry fee' of $10; have a dozen cues, with varying characteristics and construction. Then tape them up and do a similar test that John did 25 years ago. See if there are any winners in the big guesses...all the $$$ in the pot goes to the best guesser! In case of ties, pot will be split evenly! This could be fun, as there are so many different cues now, than there were 25-30 years ago! :grin:

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

I can contribute a cue or two. Perhaps even the one butt, one shaft, multiple interchanging joints.
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
That`s some complicated designs Michael, I`m in awe of the craftmanship, but I`m not sure if it transelates into real world playing characteristics.
Do you use the Gost pin as an A joint or did I missunderstand you?
I`m in full agreement that a cue is the sum of it`s parts and that the way the parts are put together and the materials used will affect the final product.
From my experience where a cuemakers philosophy and craftmanship is most noticable is at the end closest to the ball. The tip is obviously very important as it`s what`s actually hitting the ball. Ferrule material can affect wight (front end mass) so can length of ferrule, length of tennon and diameter of the tennon and if it`s a capped or open ferrule design.
Tip diameter also has alot to say for feel and performance, then it`s shaft taper and material.
As long as everything else is constructed with sound techniques it seems to matter less for the hit. That`s not saying it wan`t play a role in how the player judge the cue, where is the balancepoint, is it a naturally light or heavy cue, grip vs no grip, thick butt diameter vs slim butt diameter etc.
I`m sure that the joint pin used, and the materials of the collar used impacts the overall feel, but the question is: Does it have a big enough impact, so that the player can feel it and it influences his game?
Given all the variables in materials and cue construction, I think it`s very hard to discern the joint pin used, separate from all the other components.
Some joints give a better sensation when putting the cue together, I`ll grant you that, but that is mostly a psycological issue.
The initial question was: the technical purposes of each joint?
I still maintain my initial answer; its to connect the shaft and but together.
I make the assumption that the jointpin, threads or insert in the shaft and the collars are done correctly and everything is faced of right.
 

qbilder

slower than snails
Silver Member
That`s some complicated designs Michael, I`m in awe of the craftmanship, but I`m not sure if it transelates into real world playing characteristics.
Do you use the Gost pin as an A joint or did I missunderstand you?
I`m in full agreement that a cue is the sum of it`s parts and that the way the parts are put together and the materials used will affect the final product.
From my experience where a cuemakers philosophy and craftmanship is most noticable is at the end closest to the ball. The tip is obviously very important as it`s what`s actually hitting the ball. Ferrule material can affect wight (front end mass) so can length of ferrule, length of tennon and diameter of the tennon and if it`s a capped or open ferrule design.
Tip diameter also has alot to say for feel and performance, then it`s shaft taper and material.
As long as everything else is constructed with sound techniques it seems to matter less for the hit. That`s not saying it wan`t play a role in how the player judge the cue, where is the balancepoint, is it a naturally light or heavy cue, grip vs no grip, thick butt diameter vs slim butt diameter etc.
I`m sure that the joint pin used, and the materials of the collar used impacts the overall feel, but the question is: Does it have a big enough impact, so that the player can feel it and it influences his game?
Given all the variables in materials and cue construction, I think it`s very hard to discern the joint pin used, separate from all the other components.
Some joints give a better sensation when putting the cue together, I`ll grant you that, but that is mostly a psycological issue.
The initial question was: the technical purposes of each joint?
I still maintain my initial answer; its to connect the shaft and but together.
I make the assumption that the jointpin, threads or insert in the shaft and the collars are done correctly and everything is faced of right.

You bring up a lot my own sentiments in this post, with a couple exceptions. I see the tip in the same way I see tires on a car. It's where rubber meets pavement, but it's only as good as the machine it's attached to. A $2000 set of racing tires won't do crap to help a Ford Festiva, and a $300 set of eco tires from Wal-Mart won't do any justice on a Ferrari. I view the tip the same way I do every other component, even the bumper. They all matter equally & the cue is best when the maker chooses each component according to a final goal. This is why Showman's cue & mine were so similar, although everything about them was different. We both had a similar goal in mind, and although we took different routes, both arrived at the same accomplished goal. Changing a single component makes minimal difference, IMO. Of course all of this is subject to be wrong, because the more I learn, the more I realize how little I actually know.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
That`s some complicated designs Michael, I`m in awe of the craftmanship, but I`m not sure if it transelates into real world playing characteristics.
Do you use the Gost pin as an A joint or did I missunderstand you?
I`m in full agreement that a cue is the sum of it`s parts and that the way the parts are put together and the materials used will affect the final product.
From my experience where a cuemakers philosophy and craftmanship is most noticable is at the end closest to the ball. The tip is obviously very important as it`s what`s actually hitting the ball. Ferrule material can affect wight (front end mass) so can length of ferrule, length of tennon and diameter of the tennon and if it`s a capped or open ferrule design.
Tip diameter also has alot to say for feel and performance, then it`s shaft taper and material.
As long as everything else is constructed with sound techniques it seems to matter less for the hit. That`s not saying it wan`t play a role in how the player judge the cue, where is the balancepoint, is it a naturally light or heavy cue, grip vs no grip, thick butt diameter vs slim butt diameter etc.
I`m sure that the joint pin used, and the materials of the collar used impacts the overall feel, but the question is: Does it have a big enough impact, so that the player can feel it and it influences his game?
Given all the variables in materials and cue construction, I think it`s very hard to discern the joint pin used, separate from all the other components.
Some joints give a better sensation when putting the cue together, I`ll grant you that, but that is mostly a psycological issue.
The initial question was: the technical purposes of each joint?
I still maintain my initial answer; its to connect the shaft and but together.
I make the assumption that the jointpin, threads or insert in the shaft and the collars are done correctly and everything is faced of right.

Hi Kim
Those are examples of joints not -A- joints. I added the ghost out of a cue because it's quite different. They all play a different role in the overall construction and balance. I did not put examples of -A- joint construction nor will I. My point is everything matters. Not 1 part of the butt but all 3 parts of it's construction combined.
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You bring up a lot my own sentiments in this post, with a couple exceptions. I see the tip in the same way I see tires on a car. It's where rubber meets pavement, but it's only as good as the machine it's attached to. A $2000 set of racing tires won't do crap to help a Ford Festiva, and a $300 set of eco tires from Wal-Mart won't do any justice on a Ferrari. I view the tip the same way I do every other component, even the bumper. They all matter equally & the cue is best when the maker chooses each component according to a final goal. This is why Showman's cue & mine were so similar, although everything about them was different. We both had a similar goal in mind, and although we took different routes, both arrived at the same accomplished goal. Changing a single component makes minimal difference, IMO. Of course all of this is subject to be wrong, because the more I learn, the more I realize how little I actually know.

I can see the logic in that and it`s as you say many ways to achieve the same goal, but it can be a somewhat confusing process.
OB and Predator shafts can be an example of getting a desired characteristic by employing the right materials. The first generation OB shafts with the rubber tube inside and wood ferrule was their way of making a soft hitting shaft with very little "ping" sound when striking the CB, Predator uses the tip silencer on their new shafts to reduce the sound when striking the ball. Mezz uses their "NX" ferrule material wich seems to soften the hit of their fairly stiff shaft tapers (compared to OB and Predator.)

Hi Kim
Those are examples of joints not -A- joints. I added the ghost out of a cue because it's quite different. They all play a different role in the overall construction and balance. I did not put examples of -A- joint construction nor will I. My point is everything matters. Not 1 part of the butt but all 3 parts of it's construction combined.

Thanks Michael.
 
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