dyes and glue
- Thread starter fugdbdt
- Start date
My apologies to the op. Misread your post.
This will work with epoxy - Just take a small plastic bottle w/lid to your local paint store. Tell them you want some black tint. They probably will not even charge you for this small amount.
Bob Danielson
www.bdcuesandcomix.com
This will work with epoxy - Just take a small plastic bottle w/lid to your local paint store. Tell them you want some black tint. They probably will not even charge you for this small amount.
Bob Danielson
www.bdcuesandcomix.com
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Thanx... i will try that.
You kind of have to wonder what it will do to the chemistry and strength of the glue.
Well that was a good idea to google it. I found this site.
They seem to be a little loose with water thinning tite bond.
Appearantly that's the soluable for it.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ocId=231&title=Titebond+Woodworking+Glue+Tips
Dye for glues
Take a look at this:
How to properly add dye to Titebond Wood Glues:
"It is possible to change the color of aliphatic resin glues by using aniline-based dyes. Using a drop or two of water, work the powdered dye into a paste before adding to the glue. This helps to prevent lumps in the glue. Start by adding a small amount of the dye because a small amount can significantly alter the color. Before making your final color decision, be sure to let a sample of the dyed glue dry. When the mixtures dry they may look different from the wet state."
Take a look at this:
How to properly add dye to Titebond Wood Glues:
"It is possible to change the color of aliphatic resin glues by using aniline-based dyes. Using a drop or two of water, work the powdered dye into a paste before adding to the glue. This helps to prevent lumps in the glue. Start by adding a small amount of the dye because a small amount can significantly alter the color. Before making your final color decision, be sure to let a sample of the dyed glue dry. When the mixtures dry they may look different from the wet state."
Rit fabric dye. It's sold at most stores in the laundry section. Mix the powder with water then added to the glue.
Acrylic paint. Sold in 1 or 2oz bottles in the craft section for $1.
I've mixed both to several different wood glues with great results. It doesn't take much and the color darkens when it dries.
Acrylic paint. Sold in 1 or 2oz bottles in the craft section for $1.
I've mixed both to several different wood glues with great results. It doesn't take much and the color darkens when it dries.
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These will work
http://www.constantines.com/waterbasedanilines.aspx
The problem with water based is they can bleed.
Best to use a thing called
Tints all
http://www.amazon.com/Sheffield-1571-10-Tint-All-Colorant/dp/B000VBJS8I
You can get it at Home Depot. You can mix them and make any color you want when mixed with epoxy.
I clicked on Macguys link and I wouldn't buy anything from Constantines unless they are going to supply the lube with your order. Their prices are at least 25% above what most everybody else charges for the same items.
Also, I'm not sure why you would need to dye the glue for installing points.
Also, I'm not sure why you would need to dye the glue for installing points.
I have never used epoxy or dye on a cue. However on one of cueman's
instructional tapes... he used epoxy and dye on a 4 point recut forearm
and i thought it was pretty sharp. On my staggered 8 point, the long points come out very thin and shallow at the tip. Although i never have issues, i just thought it might be a good precaution against a tiny glue line in points as well as stitch rings. Im not concerned with bonding.... as i can
clamp some pieces together and test it, however i am kind of apprehensive about the mentioned bleeding.
Chris sells Dye that you can use that will not bleed into Maple. I'm sure that you can get it elsewhere too.
I wouldn't use it for gluing in points though. While it may not be visible right now, down the road, it will show up. If it's filling in the tips of your points, then people are going to accuse you of coloring in your points.
The same goes for inlays. Just look at any old cue and you can clearly see the filler in the notches and around the inlays. If you take the time and make things fit right, you don't have to use any filler for any reason at all.
Sure, there are times when mistakes happen that a little filler can easily fix the problem, but I would never consider using filler for anything as part of my normal routine.
I wouldn't use it for gluing in points though. While it may not be visible right now, down the road, it will show up. If it's filling in the tips of your points, then people are going to accuse you of coloring in your points.
The same goes for inlays. Just look at any old cue and you can clearly see the filler in the notches and around the inlays. If you take the time and make things fit right, you don't have to use any filler for any reason at all.
Sure, there are times when mistakes happen that a little filler can easily fix the problem, but I would never consider using filler for anything as part of my normal routine.
Your point is well taken. Dont wanna put words in your mouth but i think
your saying that when the work is done properly, it doesnt matter what
color the glue is because it shouldnt be seen anyway. And i do
concur with that. However (filling in the tips of the points) was not at all
what i was trying to convey.
It would be interesting to hear why Chris did this but i would bet (filling in)
was the furthest thing from his mind. When i saw the piece that he glued up... it just appeared to have cleaner edges... could just be my imagination. Tite bond just happens to be yellow. But if it were naturally black... i think for this application i would prefer that. Beautiful kids in your
avartar btw.