Homemade Lathe Design Issue

Biloxi Boy · Sep 19, 2020

I am in the homestretch of planning/building a shaft spinner (homemade lathe), but I am wrestling with one final issue: how to create a horizontally adjustable tailstock. I have come to realize that, since each shaft and collet combination results in a different “lock point” (the point at which shaft and collet become firmly settled inside the bearing bore so that wobble, etc., is minimized) I need a tailstock which adjusts toward and away from the headstock. As to the relative heights of the headstock and tailstock, I think they can, or must, be static so long as their centers align.

I am planning to use a 2x6 (maybe 2x8) for a bed and wood blocks to adjust head/tail height. For my head end, I have a no power spindle and drill chuck. On my tail end, I have a pillow bearing.

I intend to build a very simple machine, and, to this end, I am searching for a very simple solution requiring minimal fabrication. I have watched countless videos and read countless threads and have found some very good solutions which I may have to utilize, but right now, I am hoping for an “easier, softer way.”

I am open to any ideas or suggestions. Everything, except simplicity, is on the table.

SSDiver2112 · Sep 19, 2020

You can cut parallel slots in the board and run bolts through to be able to slide it back and forth and then secure it in place. If you want to spend a little bit look up T Track on rockler.com to make a sliding track system.

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Biloxi Boy · Sep 19, 2020

Thanks for your input. It is greatly appreciated.

The double channel in wood partially closed by flat bars approach and the metal tracks approach both occurred to me. Also considered "through 2x6" slots with channels on underside to accomodate bolt heads.

I just do not want to finish the machine and then see the exact thing I wish I had done. This way, even if above happens, I have exhausted the alternatives.

iusedtoberich · Sep 19, 2020

You’d be better off going the aluminum t-slot route for the bed imo. You can probably get what you need on eBay for $30.

Biloxi Boy · Sep 19, 2020

Thanks for answering. This approach makes a lot of sense. My only question on this one was how durable the aluminum would be. Upon more thought, its not like I would be stressing it 50 times a day. LOL.

iusedtoberich · Sep 19, 2020

If you are set on wood, and simple as possible, put a wood skirt hanging down from tailstock that registers against the side of the bed. That will be your alignment. Then just use a C-clamp to lock the tailstock in place.

Note with any 2x lumbar nothing is straight. If set on wood from the local store, check out the 1x poplar boards, or the select 1x pine boards. They are the straightest wood Home Depot has. They are in the same isle and same shelving section right next to each other.

And if you want thicker wood, go in the back of the store where the moldings are, and arounmf the corner from them will be stair treads in pine. They have 36” and 48” length. Very straight for wood, and only about $10 each.

Good luck.

Biloxi Boy · Sep 19, 2020

These are great suggestions. Even though I have done cabinet work and am familiar with the concept of squaring stock, it had escaped me in this context -- back on the agenda now if using a skirt. I've worked with C-clamps a lot. They are great for clamping and setting aside, but when working around them, they seem to get in way.

A skirt with a small/shallow bar clamp (screw type) might be the solution.

Biloxi Boy · Sep 19, 2020

Anyone have any experience with toggle clamps? Dependable (stay clamped)? Sufficient to resist weight/motion of a spinning pillow block bearing? I've never used one.

conetip · Sep 19, 2020

Posting a sketch will yield a better input for assistance than a spiel.
You need a spindle. Then you need a support/tailstock. They both ideally need to align 100% of the time.
Making it from wood is not going to achieve this.
What is the purpose of this device?
That will determine the construction method of what you need to achieve.
If it is just to spin a shaft to polish it, all that is needed is a vertical drive to hang the shaft from as it spins.

Biloxi Boy · Sep 19, 2020

Cleaning/restore/polish shafts and trim/finish tips. Very minor stuff -- all of which can be accomplished by hand but which would be greatly facilitated by motion.

They will align. It is the variable "cinch" point between shaft, collet, and bearing.

whammo57 · Sep 19, 2020

instead of re inventing the wheel............... buy a Taig tail stock and adapt the mounting to your lathe

Kim

Biloxi Boy · Sep 19, 2020

I examined all of the examples and early on settled on the pillow block bearing/collet configuration -- only drawback/complication is varying shaft diameters dictate adjustment.

iusedtoberich · Sep 19, 2020

Just build what you have in your head. Once done, use it a bit. If good enough, that’s the end. If not, make it better next time. That’s the basic design process for anything.

If you want it to work without messing around, spend a few hundred and buy one ready made.

It seems like you might be the type to enjoy the process though. In that case the first paragraph applies

Biloxi Boy · Sep 19, 2020

I wanted to see if it could be done for under $100.00, and it can be. I cannot figure out why China has not put a similar machine on the market at a reasonable price except that demand is too low.

conetip · Sep 19, 2020

Buy a used wood lathe. Most is already done for you to adapt.
You will still need sleeves or bushes etc that can all be made on a wood lathe also.
Some are almost given away in garage sales these days.

skogstokig · Sep 20, 2020

Biloxi Boy said:
I examined all of the examples and early on settled on the pillow block bearing/collet configuration -- only drawback/complication is varying shaft diameters dictate adjustment.

cool! i think i posted this in your other thread: https://youtu.be/5m92gbCVyb0

let me know if you find those high pillow blocks anywhere. might build a dedicated cleaning/polishing lathe myself as my current lathe doesn't lend itself well to this purpose (and i like building things).

Biloxi Boy · Sep 20, 2020

A bearing like that would have served my purposes, but I am beyond that point. The device you posted eliminates the bed -- instead of storing the finished product in a closet, storage in a drawer is possible.

Thank you for your input.

SSDiver2112 · Sep 20, 2020

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dmbrun7q88839zz/IMG_6781.MOV?dl=0

Hopefully the link to the video will work. I have the rail going into the motor base with screws holding it in place. This way it can be disassembled easy for storage.

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Biloxi Boy · Sep 20, 2020

Yours is a very nice, finished, set up. Mine is going to be much rougher -- think "framing grade" a la Rube Goldberg. LOL.

Some time back, I picked up a Sears Kenmore Model 1120 Sewing Machine with external motor, foot control, and forward/reverse switch, for $5.00 at an estate sale. It is similar to this one. See Photos 5-8 for motor/belt configuration.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Se...648090?hash=item264653b49a:g:h3AAAOSwyVBfZBNn
When I began my "lathe" quest and searched for a power source, it occurred to me to use the sewing machine's motor. My plan is to leave the sewing machine intact (it sews great and is built like a tank) and simply move the belt to my spindle pulley. My bed and pulley heights will be dictacted by the motor height. From there, all I have to do is center the shaft and bearing using the adjustable tailstock assembly I am currently pursuing. Too much fun.

SSDiver2112 · Sep 20, 2020

When I got trapped in the house a few months back I started with the simple strap down my drill ideas which soon became a quest for distraction. I call it my Frankenlathe since I pieced it together and brought it to life. Now that I have a few new tools and my dining room has become a work shop I’ve been playing around with some other projects.
Cue rest

And magnetic chalk holders.

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Homemade Lathe Design Issue

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