What's your favorite Aftermarket Shaft on a schon butt?
- Thread starter randallt6
- Start date
ob classic, ive played with em all and thats what I ended up keeping.
I am using a OB classic right now
I should be getting a Ob classic pro in 12.25 mm sometime next week
I should be getting a Ob classic pro in 12.25 mm sometime next week
I had an ob classic that I liked as well,,,,,currently have a Meucci black dot that I'm partial to,,,,,,,,
Predator 314 was my choice when I played with a Shon, had a great hit.
jackiestax
Banned
Old growth custom (VARNEY)
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Schon after market shaft
When I travel or go to a bar etc, I often take a leather wrapped schon I put on my Gus Szamoti shaft.
They fit perfectly and I am real partial to my Szamboti shaft. Has a lot of grain - with a knot in it and some 'curly' grain.
Mark Griffin
When I travel or go to a bar etc, I often take a leather wrapped schon I put on my Gus Szamoti shaft.
They fit perfectly and I am real partial to my Szamboti shaft. Has a lot of grain - with a knot in it and some 'curly' grain.
Mark Griffin
Once my schon gets here (its stuck in customs) I'm gonna have a wd700 (mezz) and 314 shaft. Ill let you know which one hits better on the schon.
The Schon is just a good, solid, well-balanced butt. Any other difference will be the direct result of the shaft. Choose your favorite. Most of the better players, if they're not getting the shaft for free or somehow have something to gain monetarily, play with Predator. Ask the better players in your pool room. Most are not in the business of selling cues/shafts; therefore, will give you a more honest answer.
Yukon Ed
On my schon i like the mezz wd700 and 314 2 shaft.I think i like the 314 just a little better.
I like a kauri, old growth bristlecone pine cross laminate.. infused with phenolic gel.. and an end mass constructed of carbon nano tubes....
the tip is layered mammoth foreskin soaked in Nicaraguan rat milk before being pressed in the original prototype vicegrip for 72 and 1/2 hours at 50 degrees Réaumur..
the tip is layered mammoth foreskin soaked in Nicaraguan rat milk before being pressed in the original prototype vicegrip for 72 and 1/2 hours at 50 degrees Réaumur..
Was that supposed to be funny? :boring2:
nope.. spending $200 on maple scraps and glue however is f*king hillarious.. the new generation pool hustler ain't betting on games... he's selling gear...
If this is your opinion on the subject of cue makers and manufacturers then pool forums may not be the place for you.
If you don't have anything POSITIVE to add to a thread, then don't post. If you want to complain about today's cues then find a poor soul who will listen to you, cuz majority of the people on here including me don't want to hear you babble on about that crap.
Cheers
Randall
OK 1 hour a week working on your stroke.. will do more for your game than all the marketing from all the hustlers COMBINED!!
if you want to play run out pool then DO IT.. put in the work and and become an actual PLAYER.. and as soon as you do you will realize... like I have.. that gear is a crutch...
frettin over which plywood shaft will make your buddies look up to you... is a dead end.....
there is only one road to the top.. And you Ain't on it!!!
The Mezz or the OB classic are likely in the lead with the 314-2 trailing slightly.... The issue is how they work ALL the way around the ball..... The Mezz and the OB Classic work well on the top of the ball or on the bottom of it.... While the 314-2 is better than the original 314s it is still hot on the bottom and weak on the top of the cueball....
I played for 10 years with the original 314s and my game showed it... I used draw over follow constantly and had quit even rolling the cueball because of the apprehension of being on top of the ball... I have an OMG shaft made by GIbbs here in TN and it has no hot or dead spots... It works well regardless of hemisphere.....
I can tell you I helped in the development of the shaft and it took at least 12 reworks from it's original LD version to what it is now..... The original was hot on the bottom like the original 314 and and I could draw the ball 3-4 rails without effort... On top of the ball it would not hold water... 2years later there is nothing it fails at... I can't draw 3-4 rails with it effortlessly anymore.. I have to put a stroke on it but it works all the way around the ball...
I have hit both the mezz 700 and the OB classic and they both seem to work well all around the cueball...... I think my Gibbs has less deflection than either but we all learn to compensate for that with a little time at the table......
I played for 10 years with the original 314s and my game showed it... I used draw over follow constantly and had quit even rolling the cueball because of the apprehension of being on top of the ball... I have an OMG shaft made by GIbbs here in TN and it has no hot or dead spots... It works well regardless of hemisphere.....
I can tell you I helped in the development of the shaft and it took at least 12 reworks from it's original LD version to what it is now..... The original was hot on the bottom like the original 314 and and I could draw the ball 3-4 rails without effort... On top of the ball it would not hold water... 2years later there is nothing it fails at... I can't draw 3-4 rails with it effortlessly anymore.. I have to put a stroke on it but it works all the way around the ball...
I have hit both the mezz 700 and the OB classic and they both seem to work well all around the cueball...... I think my Gibbs has less deflection than either but we all learn to compensate for that with a little time at the table......