To sand or not to........?
- Thread starter garczar
- Start date
You want to remove whatever impurities are on that top shiny layer and allow better glue absorption.
Mario
Great point. Didn't even think about the being flat part.
Face off the ferrule. Sand your tip on a flat surface, I use a granite surface plate and some 180 grit paper. Blow off dust and debris with compressed air. Before you glue, check that both surfaces are totally flat against each other. use some denatured alchol to remove any fingermarks or other contaminants, let it dry, the glue the tip on.
I sand leather tips flat with 220. Kamui Clear with 320 or 400. Face the ferrule with a razor, then briefly touch with 220 while still spinning.
Surfaces should be clean and flat, but lightly scuffed. NEVER score or drill the ferrule face in an attempt to make superglue work better. It wont.
Surfaces should be clean and flat, but lightly scuffed. NEVER score or drill the ferrule face in an attempt to make superglue work better. It wont.
One more important reason to sand the bottom of the tip a bit. Some tips have a coating, such as Le Pro and Triangle. It's probably some kind of enamel mixture, but you want to glue the leather to the pad or ferrule, not a tip coating.
All the best,
WW
Couldn’t say it better; best advice here for a great install.
I understand eliminating the possible debris on the cue, but what’s the correlation between oil and super glue for finish bonding that makes it not viable for tips? Far too many threads on super glue finishes that mention oil prep. I find that a little skin oil from my nose rubbed on the tip and ferrule face before I glue a tip on has eliminated tips popping off for me. As in I’ve have zero failures since I’ve adopted this method. I used to use denatured alcohol to clean the ferrule after facing, I had failures with that method. Only failures I get now are from deformed thermoform plastic failures, or faulty tips. Glue bond remains strong.
And if you’re installing a malleable material tip, it doesn’t need to be perfectly flat. Just close enough. The glue will slightly expand the material through absorption and the pressure applied to the tip during glue up will cause the tip to form to the ferrule end anyways. Does not apply for backed tips, clear or fiber. Or the majority of break tips.
The reason combining oil with CA works for finishing is the same reason it might not work for tips.
That reason is the CA cures much slower,and maybe not at all without help when you add oil.
This is why I've been wiping the ferrule with denatured alcohol for as long as I can remember,but I also prefer Loctite Pro which is a super fast setting CA,and it works 100% of the time if the ferrule is clean. Tommy D.
That reason is the CA cures much slower,and maybe not at all without help when you add oil.
This is why I've been wiping the ferrule with denatured alcohol for as long as I can remember,but I also prefer Loctite Pro which is a super fast setting CA,and it works 100% of the time if the ferrule is clean. Tommy D.
From Scotch Brand Superglue Site.....
“For a better hold on smooth surfaces gently rough up the spot you plan to glue with sandpaper or steel wool first.”
https://www.scotchbrand.com/3M/en_US/scotch-brand/tips-uses/super-glue-guide/
Adding a sprinkle of Baking Soda before application of superglue makes the bond stronger.
I can build a balsa wood airplane in a couple of days using this method.
I don’t think it would help with tips, too hard to remove later.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tz7jd2NtuRo
Last edited:
your talking about using BLO and CA and it forms an elastomer your nose oil is doing nothing to help the tip stay on. DNA can mess with some plastics your process is probably just better now.