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Michael Webb
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06-28-2018, 10:41 PM

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Originally Posted by JoeyInCali View Post
Word!
I hate to add up what I've spent on finishing so far.
Lord!

R&D is very seldom cheap. BUT, the knowledge gained is priceless.


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05-17-2019, 11:00 AM

Want to bump this thread and see what has been learned about this product on cues in the last year since the last post.

Thanks

JC


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Kim Bye
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05-17-2019, 11:52 AM

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Originally Posted by Michael Webb View Post
Finding the right finish that is going to represent your cues is a painful, unforgiving task. It doesn't matter what products work for others. What matters is, will it work for you. I went thru it and so didn't every Cue maker I know. Define it's flaws and work from there. Then you'll know.
Spot on!
I've spent quite a bit of time and money on clear coat products, buffing compounds, spray guns etc. and I'm still learning.



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05-17-2019, 01:30 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim Bye View Post
Spot on!
I've spent quite a bit of time and money on clear coat products, buffing compounds, spray guns etc. and I'm still learning.
You could have saved a ton if you asked me about Iwata LPH-80 and PPG Shopline.


  
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05-18-2019, 09:15 AM

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Originally Posted by JoeyInCali View Post
You could have saved a ton if you asked me about Iwata LPH-80 and PPG Shopline.
I ended up with a SATA minijet. Iwata, Sata, Devilbiss, they all seem to make high quality sprayguns. I'm using a 2K Mipa clear atm, PPG and Chromax is crazy expensive over here!



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05-18-2019, 11:53 AM

Well I played around with the brite tone and I am by no means a finish expert. I brushed it on over epoxy sealer on a couple cues and can say it sand easy and lays down pretty well but if you hit it with rubbing alcohol even after drying for months it gets tacky and soft
  
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05-21-2019, 08:39 AM

Good read and info in this thread, as someone new messing with cue building and have done repair work for a while. I've only sprayed a few cues but having an automotive spraying background, that is my comfort zone. May get the test kit and play with this as well though.


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05-21-2019, 11:28 AM

I have a few cues that have been finished for over a year and the finish looks awesome and never had issues with any alcohol or any other solvent after the cue was sprayed and dried.


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05-22-2019, 05:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim Bye View Post
Spot on!
I've spent quite a bit of time and money on clear coat products, buffing compounds, spray guns etc. and I'm still learning.
Fact!
When it comes to wood puzzles, (pool cues), no one knows everything. It gets easier when you do things consistently such as, learn about what your using, along with Temperature and humidity of your shop.


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05-22-2019, 07:08 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim Bye View Post
I ended up with a SATA minijet. Iwata, Sata, Devilbiss, they all seem to make high quality sprayguns. I'm using a 2K Mipa clear atm, PPG and Chromax is crazy expensive over here!
I have a few Sata's, love them, for cues the simple touch up gun works great.


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05-23-2019, 12:07 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Webb View Post
Fact!
When it comes to wood puzzles, (pool cues), no one knows everything. It gets easier when you do things consistently such as, learn about what your using, along with Temperature and humidity of your shop.
Yep, it`s one thing reading about what another cuemaker is doing, but doing it yourself is a quite another thing...
But finishing seems to be a subject that has frustrated just about every cuemaker at some point. I think I saw the light when i found the right (for me) cutting and buffing compounds.



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05-23-2019, 05:17 PM

I can not list all the finish products I tried over 45 years of cue making but one incident stands out.

In Aspen I was helping a friend refinish his AC Ace. The precursor to the Cobra.
It had an all aluminum body and he did some research to see what the best paint would be. At that time trucks and aircraft were using Dupont Imron.
We painted the car bright Red.

I got to thinking about Imron and decided to try some clear on a few cues.
The results were amazing compared to the standard wood finishes that I had tried. I used it for years until I found something better.

I am now convinced that Imron was the cause of my Lymphoma cancer.

So make sure whatever you use you take proper precautions.

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05-23-2019, 08:37 PM

Imron has been illegal in California for a long time.
People have sworn it was the best finish then.


  
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05-24-2019, 05:46 AM

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Originally Posted by JoeyInCali View Post
Imron has been illegal in California for a long time.
People have sworn it was the best finish then.

Everything is illegal in Cali now. Lol
Certain sanding sealers have joined the list in New England too.
Deft Laquer sanding sealer has joined the list up here.
When it comes to what we do, sealing, finishing and the woods we use. IT'S NO JOKE! Please protect yourself.


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06-03-2019, 07:30 PM

Finished two cues with brite tone this week.

Used a one inch paint brush and my slow rotating lathe I built for epoxy. Brush a thin coat on, set the timer to an hour and come back and repeat when time allows. I put 5 or 6 coats on, not sure. No prep between coats at all.

I see no reason to spray it. I love the no odor whatsoever and the 10 seconds it takes to clean my brush. It sanded very easily, smooth and clear starting with 600 grit dry then 8, 12, 2k and 2500 wet. Polished with 3m machine polish and a paper napkin. I can see why the luthiers sand it dry as it doesn't clog the sandpaper like epoxy does. With a downdraft table dry all the way is for sure an option.

I guess spraying it might lay flatter but it only took a minute to sand the first level and with a brush you get almost zero waste and no overspray.

It's as clear and shiny as anything I have ever seen with a fraction the effort of epoxy and none of the toxicity of other options.

If it looks good on my test cues, including my own player, in 6 months count me in.

JC


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Last edited by JC; 06-03-2019 at 08:58 PM.
  
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