Epoxy finish questions
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cuetrip
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Epoxy finish questions - 08-13-2019, 06:41 PM

Hi guys,
I took the advice of a few members and am abandoning the CA finish and moving to epoxy. I tried one last night:
Three coats of Bullseye cut 3:1 with denatured alcohol
Light scuff with a green Scotchbrite pad
Applied a coat of West Systems 105/207
Spread it with my fingers and then smoothed with a card
Hit the bubbles with a torch (that worked surprisingly well)
I checked it every couple hours and was getting new bubbles coming up. I think I didn't seal the rosewood well enough.
This morning I checked it and it had leveled out nicely. I had a few dimples from bubbles that had popped on their own.
Questions:
1. What sealing method should I be using? I've heard mention of epoxy sealer, but I don't know if that's an actual product, or if people are rubbing a thin layer of epoxy into the wood and wiping it off. Suggestions?
2. Is it necessary to sand the first coat of epoxy before applying a second if the first coat leveled out? If I use my fingers to fill the dimples in the first coat?
3. How many coats do you guys typically apply?
Thanks much and any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
Rob
  
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whammo57
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08-15-2019, 07:02 AM

I use Max 1618 epoxy..... some woods will out gas so you have to keep going back and rubbing in every 20 or 30 min as it cures. That will take care of the bubbles. You can also use a fine spray of DNA to pop the bubbles instead of the torch.

I never sand between coats of epoxy.

Kim


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Epoxy finish
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Mcues
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Epoxy finish - 08-15-2019, 10:15 AM

Do a search on here and you'll find all the info you need on epoxy finishes, including how to
use West system epoxy in particular.

Mario


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JoeyInCali
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08-15-2019, 11:43 AM

You're on the right track.
I use playing card . But, I do spray clear coat now. I did epoxy on sneakies before .

Apply one coat, wait till the epoxy wicks. Apply another coat with a playing card while it's spinning some 400 RPM.
That gets rid of the bubbles and thickens the epoxy. Enough to fill most pits.
Let it dry hard for two days.

Spin sand with a good 800 grit while blowing air.
Sand with gray scotch brite lengthwise . Not red. Gray.
Make sure it's all scratched and no shiny spots anymore.

Clean lightly with DA after blowing dust. Cleaning with distilled water wouldn't hurt before DA. Let dry.
Another coat.

Polish 2 days or more later .

Btw, if you're taper machine is precise enough and that your router cutters are really sharp and true.
You can actually coat your cue with epoxy before the final pass ( .005 or less ) .
That way, on your final pass, the pits are all filled with epoxy already.

If you are doing a Wenge or zebrawood, I highly recommend doing that . It will save you a lot of headache .



Last edited by JoeyInCali; 08-15-2019 at 11:46 AM.
  
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08-15-2019, 05:42 PM

Thanks guys!
  
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