Splitting The Difference Aiming System

Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The RULES ARE:

OK, apparently this needs to be said again. I do not want to see anyone bashing another aiming system in any way.

If you have a positive experience with an aiming system, then feel free to post it. If you want to discuss the merits of an aiming system, then feel free. But for now, I don't want any comparisons as we all know that will just turn into bashing.


[/You post clearly was bashing another as a "beginner's aiming system" and comparing it to Poolology. You did NOTHING to discuss the MERITS of it, and there are. PLENTY.

"INNOCENT DAN" got misunderstood again. Riiiiigtht

Still trying to derail this thread, huh?!.
COLOR]


I don't think anybody except you is misunderstanding my post. paultex posted a video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIUy9x_J410) and proceeded in typical paultx fashion to write a novel. :smile: I took a look at the video and read the caption on the video from the guy who uploaded it. The caption says, "This "Split the Difference" aiming system was created by "Little Mike". This aiming system makes it very simple for beginners and mediocre players. I wish I learned this system in the beginning. Very accurate!!!"

I read that and figured paul was reading more into this video than maybe he should if it was intended for beginners.

I'm not exactly sure what part of that is controversial, but I'll try not to post again in this thread if it upsets you so much.
 

paultex

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Muh point is, in short novel fashion, it's not for beginners because it ingrains a warp twist spin, which IS THE OFFSET.

Not mad at anyone, I'm just mad at wire coat hangers mommie dearest:)

This is not a new system but it is a natural one that develops over time through progression. Nobody taught me it, and I see players naturally do it all the time without knowing the difference between that and a true delivery down the line.

You two are straight pool players. Right handed and cutting a 25 degree type shot to the right and driving the cb through the rack......good luck with spin and win when the cb deflects and tickles a few balls out and the cb energy finds its way up table.

When I ask a player who doesn't know the difference to execute the shot, the big'ol twist comes out and then the "wait a minute" as they set the shot up again......then the computer jammed up look in their eyes as they try to figure a way and then over cut the shot.

It is however, one of the best methods for pocketing balls when the shot requires it or just needs to be made. I got to the point of rarely missing shots with it BUT......

Happy holidays. Every time you two go at it, I scroll up to the avatars and check if there is a "banned" underneath the name:(

Don't want to see either of you get banned but if spider stepped on a piece of lego with his bare feet, ummmmm I think I wouldn't care but I like to think I would smile ha ha ha.
 
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SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
I took a look at the video and read the caption on the video from the guy who uploaded it. The caption says, "This "Split the Difference" aiming system was created by "Little Mike". This aiming system makes it very simple for beginners and mediocre players. I wish I learned this system in the beginning. Very accurate!!!"

Funny how you homed in on the comment but had nothing to say about the system itself, the pivoting, and the accuracy of the system. You then started blowing off in Dan White fashion about how great Poolology is and players should learn and use it.

You know the program. The same one both you and it's creator choose NOT to use in real play.


I read that and figured paul was reading more into this video than maybe he should if it was intended for beginners.

You know damn well this system isn't for beginners regardless of what Little Mike said. It was an absurd statement on his part. It is SIMPLE but for those who have been around the game for a good length of time.

Paul answered it right on the money when he replied to you with this: "Muh point is, in short novel fashion, it's not for beginners because it ingrains a warp twist spin, which IS THE OFFSET."

Beginner aiming systems always start off with Ghost Ball, contact point, or placing one ball that touches another in line with a pocket to get a newbie to envision IMPACT from any angle on the table.

Pivoting from CCB and COB, CCB to 1/4 Ball, CCB to Edge, or any other nuances using tip portions doesn't belong in a beginner's arsenal. They can't even figure out how to strike the CB with a straight cue and alignment let alone an angled one.



I'm not exactly sure what part of that is controversial,

Throwing in the Poolology part as heavily as you did and making a comparison for starters.

but I'll try not to post again in this thread if it upsets you so much.

That would be a great Christmas present and I'll accept your offer.
Will you be able to hold to it?

If you'd take it one step further, how about a New Year's Resolution to never post in one of my threads again for 2018. We can consider an extension of the resolution in future years when they arrive.
 

Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
That would be a great Christmas present and I'll accept your offer.
Will you be able to hold to it?

If you'd take it one step further, how about a New Year's Resolution to never post in one of my threads again for 2018. We can consider an extension of the resolution in future years when they arrive.

First off I've only read a handful of posts in this thread. I had some extra time to kill and paultex's posts are always good for killing time :smile:

The rest is in your head. I'll stay out of this thread as it appears you started it. Other than that, I'll post where I want and when I want. Mostly that will be in the 14.1 and main forums, not here.

Merry Christmas to all!
 

SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
First off I've only read a handful of posts in this thread. I had some extra time to kill and paultex's posts are always good for killing time :smile:

Could be the first time I ever agreed with you.

The rest is in your head.

LMAO! It's you being yourself trying to get into my head or others who have a bullseye on their back. Nobody knows your history and posting motivations better than I do.

I'll stay out of this thread as it appears you started it. Other than that, I'll post where I want and when I want. Mostly that will be in the 14.1 and main forums, not here.

More power to you. Trust me, I won't be following you around to the other forums. Let's see if you can live up to your word about not posting HERE.

The betting windows are open. Call for the over/under to place your bets.


Merry Christmas to all!

Good last sentence. Merry Christmas to ALL!
 

SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
Don't want to see either of you get banned but if spider stepped on a piece of lego with his bare feet, ummmmm I think I wouldn't care but I like to think I would smile ha ha ha.

That wasn't very nice. You hurt my feelings. Polty you're a mean man, a very mean man. :crying::crying:
 

paultex

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You hear that dan, spidey said i was right, mr black magic himself......wants me to put a team together (pride smug)

As far as the system is concerned, its a piece of piss, a monkey could do it THATS WHY I THOUGHT OF YOUUUU.

Talk to me dan.....im a good listener.

Don't know Paul, I've said....

Shuh up.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eDO4UMdcA_k

Back to the spin and win. One flaw is when you cut angle shots down the rail, the cb carries to much speed because there's more twist spin than draw spin and the visual of trying to impart more draw to the spin, usually produces a hitch in the stroke that redirects toward a miscue or straight draw, neutralizing the outside pivot and a thick miss is always the result.

Yes always unless a different offset is implemented, such as a bridge length or grip position change. I wish I knew then what I know now and I believe I could have made the whole thing work.

I found that with spin and win, especially when going multiple rails, it has a nasty geometric connection to often find yourself shooting from the rail on your next shot.

Another way to get more draw on the described shot is to dig more low RIGHT which is hard to trust because the visual is already on the verge of miscue but the reality is far from that because if you are a right handed player, cutting down the rail to the left, you are on the left side of the cue ball in essence and the miscue limit is "around the corner" on the other side of the cb and you can't see it from the left side. Hocus pocus manggg.

Dats why i says about gett'n on dat other side of duh cb meinnnn.

But when you does dat proper, then you be deflect'n in an'shit an be hitt'n dat ob thicker than a bowl of oatmeal.

Dats why you be hav'n to pick up dat thin perception first an line up to it wit dat outside-in attack and dat be giv'n you dat slow draw wit sum of dat right spin manggg and not carry too much speed, warp the angle and yo opponent be sittin in dat chair say'n awight he be high level I CAINT beat this dude.

Get proper shape and go on bout yo biznezz manggg, got orcollo next round and he be saying to himself ohh he goo'player, I will have to magic rack a 6 pack to beat him or else no money no honey.....sigh:(

Off to the tables. You and spidey play nice nice now ok?

Bye!:)
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
You can see him steering the cue .
Sorry, it's just not a good idea to move the grip hand in or out when you are already down.
I can accept moving your rear then staying on that stance and shoot b/c your natural stroke/arm slot are not being changed.
jmho
 

sbordona

Registered
I watched all of dirty mikes videos and I am not sure that he is aiming every shot over 30 degrees with an edge to edge alignment as he states. I can see the first and second approach of split the difference and half ball, but after that it I seem to get confused. As there is no way that you can make every shot over 30 to 90 degrees with an edge to edge alignment. Am I all wrong or am I missing something?
 

paultex

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I watched all of dirty mikes videos and I am not sure that he is aiming every shot over 30 degrees with an edge to edge alignment as he states. I can see the first and second approach of split the difference and half ball, but after that it I seem to get confused. As there is no way that you can make every shot over 30 to 90 degrees with an edge to edge alignment. Am I all wrong or am I missing something?

Well with perception, you can litterally aim to miss the entire ball, yet still make it.

The scope doesn't have to line up with the barrel if you know what the offset is.

Make sense? I don't know if that's what you meant or if it's the way he meant. I didn't watch more than a minute of it.
 

SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
I watched all of dirty mikes videos and I am not sure that he is aiming every shot over 30 degrees with an edge to edge alignment as he states. I can see the first and second approach of split the difference and half ball, but after that it I seem to get confused. As there is no way that you can make every shot over 30 to 90 degrees with an edge to edge alignment. Am I all wrong or am I missing something?

If you line up for a half ball hit with the CB and OB as your cue is aimed at the edge of the OB and then pivoted one full tip to the outside, what do you think might happen?

Or how about right CB edge aligned to OB left quarter for a right cut? Or how about right CB edge aligned to OB left quarter with a 1/2 tip to full tip pivot to the outside?

You can do the same as above for a left cut except use opposite edges and quarters on both balls. What do you think would happen? Might it cover those angles between a 1/2 ball hit and edge to edge?
 
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sbordona

Registered
I agree with everything you said, but Mike wasn't saying that or at least I didn't hear him say that in his video. What I heard Mike say is you just lining up his eyes with the outer edge to outer edge for all shots over 30 degrees. So without a pivot and just a straight edge to edge for all shots over 30 degrees just doesn't make sense to me ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIUy9x_J410 this is the address for the video I am referencing at 8:10 minutes into the video this is where mike explains his third way of aiming for all shots over 30 degrees).
 

paultex

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I agree with everything you said, but Mike wasn't saying that or at least I didn't hear him say that in his video. What I heard Mike say is you just lining up his eyes with the outer edge to outer edge for all shots over 30 degrees. So without a pivot and just a straight edge to edge for all shots over 30 degrees just doesn't make sense to me ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIUy9x_J410 this is the address for the video I am referencing at 8:10 minutes into the video this is where mike explains his third way of aiming for all shots over 30 degrees).

If you are talking about the cut on the 8 ball, it makes sense only if you maintain the inside out angle attack of his cue. So, the visual or perception of the edge to whatever (not trying to make it sound inferior or silly) is probably a true visual in reality, but the offset is the deflective stroke that shoves the cb to the right and grabs a big chunk of the ob edge and imparts the right spin or just enough throw (perhaps) to the cb, and the cb comes off the rail with a up table trajectory. Very subtle of course. It's a weird warp but very consistent in result but its a very fine line type execution or what I call "volatile".

Not saying im an expert in my statement as if I'm an authority because this particular phenomenon is something I discovered months ago and scratched my head as to why the effect happens and as of recent, I really been digging into the truth of it to understand exactly why the effect occurs and its limits. I believe I have it figured out though, based on my statements and reverting to the past when I used to execute this effect all the time but never tried to understand it decades ago.

This much I also know as conjecture but im quite sure it will happen because of player commonality in execution. If he were to shoot that shot the same way but with more speed, a massive over cut or miss thick will occur because the side pocket scratch will influence this effect of the miss volatility and or the deflect effect cannot handle more speed based on that maintained visual.

It's a classic finesse shot but really really consistent if you are playing a cinch shot with a predictable cb path that is really a kick ass way to play it if you need the rock to go that direction.

I am not exactly sure but I believe if one wanted to shoot that shot "square" down a true path that takes the volatility out and one could shoot it where speed now has less influence on pocketing the ball, it starts with vertical low draw down the center axis of the cb BUT, the physical alignment, wether feet position or a stroke direction with grip or elbow position now becomes the offset.

........and that is where the severe problem comes with this spin and win ingraining because if one is honest with themselves, including myself, you can already visualize a miscue when attacking the way I just described to square up down a true line.

The draw spin is needed for lubrication because now any sort of stun is gonna be thick and then the side pocket scratch comes back into play etc etc.

Fk it, just bank the damn 8.

If you really want to twist your mind on the execution of this shot with either execution, do it on a snooker table wit dem smalls light spheres and a 13mm cue manggg.....it be like STARRR WARRRS mein. It be fo jedi's n'shit.

Have a nice day!
 

SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
I agree with everything you said, but Mike wasn't saying that or at least I didn't hear him say that in his video. What I heard Mike say is you just lining up his eyes with the outer edge to outer edge for all shots over 30 degrees. So without a pivot and just a straight edge to edge for all shots over 30 degrees just doesn't make sense to me ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIUy9x_J410 this is the address for the video I am referencing at 8:10 minutes into the video this is where mike explains his third way of aiming for all shots over 30 degrees).

And I agree with you. Like he did earlier in the video, he sets the balls up at certain angles where they match what he's instructing. But if you like the simplicity of this system (same as Shiskabob except with an outside pivot) and want to get it to be super accurate, it will require doing some other things like tip fractions or what I posted in my last post. Then you'll cover every possible angle on the table from 0-90.

Did he specifically say or use the words 30 degrees or are you assuming it from a 1/2 ball hit struck straight on without pivot?
 

paultex

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
And I agree with you. Like he did earlier in the video, he sets the balls up at certain angles where they match what he's instructing. But if you like the simplicity of this system (same as Shiskabob except with an outside pivot) and want to get it to be super accurate, it will require doing some other things like tip fractions or what I posted in my last post. Then you'll cover every possible angle on the table from 0-90.

Did he specifically say or use the words 30 degrees or are you assuming it from a 1/2 ball hit struck straight on without pivot?

Or controlling pitch, especially angling down or digging low as i phrase it, to fill in some of the gaps.

Once again, mr Shuffett is correct when confirming a obvious, but sometimes forgettable, when he says low outside is a favorite amongst most good players universally. He stated when using that method for a particular shot, its best to angle down or make sure you are slightly jacked up (I'm paraphrasing) when applying the low right.

Another gap filler and I believe I'm the only one emphasizing this to my knowledge, is when using high left or right, levelling your cue really helps produce the helping cut effect. If you are cutting a ob to the right and use high left, but are jacking up, and it doesn't take much angle down, when i say it forces cb mass down and tends to hold the shot line and misses thick or thin all day.

I believe this is why when shooting from a cb close to the rail, you tend to get a very volatile effect of thick or thin miss, because the cue tends to be more level to the rail and playing surface.

I'm quite sure I'm right about this but I never hear of it mentioned or stressed. High English is something not talked about much and Stan said in his grip video about high English and a certain grip to help keep the cue ball on the surface of the table because wether we know or not, the cb is often bouncing when applying high English and that's very true.

This is why I think knowing in this game is extremely important, even though many good players don't exactly known, but they obviously understand effect. I venture to say though that more and more are on the know side now.

Now it's just a matter of application. Piece of cake........lol.

If you came this far, thanks.
 

BC21

https://www.playpoolbetter.com
Gold Member
Silver Member
And I agree with you. Like he did earlier in the video, he sets the balls up at certain angles where they match what he's instructing. But if you like the simplicity of this system (same as Shiskabob except with an outside pivot) and want to get it to be super accurate, it will require doing some other things like tip fractions or what I posted in my last post. Then you'll cover every possible angle on the table from 0-90.

Did he specifically say or use the words 30 degrees or are you assuming it from a 1/2 ball hit struck straight on without pivot?

Lol....I believe Little Mike said something like "45 degrees or whatever". But he specifically says to aim straight at the edge/"horizon" of the OB. He does no pivot or whatever, just says aim at the horizon. It's like magic, the actual shot angle doesn't matter....just aim at the horizon.
 

SpiderWebComm

HelpImBeingOppressed
Silver Member
OK, here's a test for all of you if you want to really know what's going on with Little Mike's system or Shishkebob. I'm going to give you the NUGGETS of all NUGGETS.

It isn't my test for you. It's YOUR test for YOU to find out what all of this does or doesn't do based on the visuals and your cue. My results might not be the same as yours or yours not the same as another player You have to see what you get for YOU.

Put the CB on the head spot for all the shots. Stick a notebook reinforcement ring in the middle of the table between the two side pockets where the OB will be placed either right on it or off to the side.

I like slightly off to the side so the reinforcement doesn't affect the OB sliding off.

Make absolutely certain if you were to hit center to center with a good stroke the alignment for the two would hit the middle diamond on the foot end rail.

First shot is to aim CENTER CB to CENTER OB and PIVOT the tip of your cue OUTSIDE 1/2 way to CENTER and EDGE of the OB. Strike the shot multiple times and see where it hits on the end rail. Do this over and over to get a good idea of how the pivot affects where the OB ends up on the rail.

Then aim CENTER CB to CENTER OB and PIVOT the tip of your cue to the OUTSIDE EDGE of the OB. Do it both with the center of your tip and the inside portion of your tip to the edge.

WHERE DOES THE OB HIT THE RAIL OR GO?

Also align one tip inside on the CB to the center of the OB and pivot the tip of your cue back to the CENTER of the CB. Where does the OB go? What happens when you start one tip inside of the CB aiming to the center of the OB and pivot halfway between center and edge on the OB?

With my cue, I can make the OB go INTO THE POCKET. What do YOU GET? Personally, I get a greater cut angle when starting from the INSIDE pivoting back to center. Also keep in mind when you align from the inside your centers to center are slightly different than when you're center to center straight on. Just sayin'.

Until you get this down pat and know what is going on, we go no further. More guys than 1 or 2 need to be on board.

It's not about my game and understanding, it's yours.
 
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One Pocket John

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
OK, here's a test for all of you if you want to really know what's going on with Little Mike's system or Shishkebob. I'm going to give you the NUGGETS of all NUGGETS.

It isn't my test for you. It's YOUR test for YOU to find out what all of this does or doesn't do based on the visuals and your cue. My results might not be the same as yours or yours not the same as another player You have to see what you get for YOU.

Put the CB on the head spot for all the shots. Stick a notebook reinforcement ring in the middle of the table between the two side pockets where the OB will be placed either right on it or off to the side.

I like slightly off to the side so the reinforcement doesn't affect the OB sliding off.

Make absolutely certain if you were to hit center to center with a good stroke the alignment for the two would hit the middle diamond on the foot end rail.

First shot is to aim CENTER CB to CENTER OB and PIVOT the tip of your cue OUTSIDE 1/2 way to CENTER and EDGE of the OB. Strike the shot multiple times and see where it hits on the end rail. Do this over and over to get a good idea of how the pivot affects where the OB ends up on the rail.

Then aim CENTER CB to CENTER OB and PIVOT the tip of your cue to the OUTSIDE EDGE of the OB. Do it both with the center of your tip and the inside portion of your tip to the edge.

WHERE DOES THE OB HIT THE RAIL OR GO?

Also align one tip inside on the CB to the center of the OB and pivot the tip of your cue back to the CENTER of the CB. Where does the OB go? What happens when you start one tip inside of the CB aiming to the center of the OB and pivot halfway between center and edge on the OB?

With my cue, I can make the OB go INTO THE POCKET. What do YOU GET? Personally, I get a greater cut angle when starting from the INSIDE pivoting back to center. Also keep in mind when you align from the inside your centers to center are slightly different than when you're center to center straight on. Just sayin'.

Until you get this down pat and know what is going on, we go no further. More guys than 1 or 2 need to be on board.

It's not about my game and understanding, it's yours.

Both first and second shots on the OB went into the corner pocket as you instructed. Pivoting from center to 25% or 75% to different corner pockets.

If I pivot in the air the first shot goes to the short rail at about .5 diamond by the corner pocket
If I pivot in the air the second shot goes to the long rail at about .5 diamond by the corner pocket.

John
 
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paultex

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
OK, here's a test for all of you if you want to really know what's going on with Little Mike's system or Shishkebob. I'm going to give you the NUGGETS of all NUGGETS.

It isn't my test for you. It's YOUR test for YOU to find out what all of this does or doesn't do based on the visuals and your cue. My results might not be the same as yours or yours not the same as another player You have to see what you get for YOU.

Put the CB on the head spot for all the shots. Stick a notebook reinforcement ring in the middle of the table between the two side pockets where the OB will be placed either right on it or off to the side.

I like slightly off to the side so the reinforcement doesn't affect the OB sliding off.

Make absolutely certain if you were to hit center to center with a good stroke the alignment for the two would hit the middle diamond on the foot end rail.

First shot is to aim CENTER CB to CENTER OB and PIVOT the tip of your cue OUTSIDE 1/2 way to CENTER and EDGE of the OB. Strike the shot multiple times and see where it hits on the end rail. Do this over and over to get a good idea of how the pivot affects where the OB ends up on the rail.

Then aim CENTER CB to CENTER OB and PIVOT the tip of your cue to the OUTSIDE EDGE of the OB. Do it both with the center of your tip and the inside portion of your tip to the edge.

WHERE DOES THE OB HIT THE RAIL OR GO?

Also align one tip inside on the CB to the center of the OB and pivot the tip of your cue back to the CENTER of the CB. Where does the OB go? What happens when you start one tip inside of the CB aiming to the center of the OB and pivot halfway between center and edge on the OB?

With my cue, I can make the OB go INTO THE POCKET. What do YOU GET? Personally, I get a greater cut angle when starting from the INSIDE pivoting back to center. Also keep in mind when you align from the inside your centers to center are slightly different than when you're center to center straight on. Just sayin'.

Until you get this down pat and know what is going on, we go no further. More guys than 1 or 2 need to be on board.

It's not about my game and understanding, it's yours.

Ok cool. I'm going to make it more interesting first. I will predict what I believe will happen on these shots based on a 4.5 x 9 table and I use a 13mm cue. I'll put some thought into it and then post what I predict and then after, I'll physically execute the shots and see if I'm correct.

I got to study these questions carefully. It be too nuclear n'shit.
 

sbordona

Registered
OK, here's a test for all of you if you want to really know what's going on with Little Mike's system or Shishkebob. I'm going to give you the NUGGETS of all NUGGETS.

It isn't my test for you. It's YOUR test for YOU to find out what all of this does or doesn't do based on the visuals and your cue. My results might not be the same as yours or yours not the same as another player You have to see what you get for YOU.

Put the CB on the head spot for all the shots. Stick a notebook reinforcement ring in the middle of the table between the two side pockets where the OB will be placed either right on it or off to the side.

I like slightly off to the side so the reinforcement doesn't affect the OB sliding off.

Make absolutely certain if you were to hit center to center with a good stroke the alignment for the two would hit the middle diamond on the foot end rail.

First shot is to aim CENTER CB to CENTER OB and PIVOT the tip of your cue OUTSIDE 1/2 way to CENTER and EDGE of the OB. Strike the shot multiple times and see where it hits on the end rail. Do this over and over to get a good idea of how the pivot affects where the OB ends up on the rail.

Then aim CENTER CB to CENTER OB and PIVOT the tip of your cue to the OUTSIDE EDGE of the OB. Do it both with the center of your tip and the inside portion of your tip to the edge.

WHERE DOES THE OB HIT THE RAIL OR GO?

Also align one tip inside on the CB to the center of the OB and pivot the tip of your cue back to the CENTER of the CB. Where does the OB go? What happens when you start one tip inside of the CB aiming to the center of the OB and pivot halfway between center and edge on the OB?

With my cue, I can make the OB go INTO THE POCKET. What do YOU GET? Personally, I get a greater cut angle when starting from the INSIDE pivoting back to center. Also keep in mind when you align from the inside your centers to center are slightly different than when you're center to center straight on. Just sayin'.

Until you get this down pat and know what is going on, we go no further. More guys than 1 or 2 need to be on board.

It's not about my game and understanding, it's yours.


I tried your test and shot numerous shots with both little mikes aim center cb to center ob and then pivot to 3/4 ob, and it hit just before the corner pocket. I then shot numerous shots with aiming one tip to the left of center of the cb aligning with the center of the ob and then pivoting to center of the cb, and the shot went in. So you are correct the pre-pivot shot does cut the ob more than a center cb to center ob and then pivoting to 3/4 ob.

I tried this on my 9 foot diamond table with 4 1/4" pockets.
 
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