What do you recommend for a sealer or stabilizer
- Thread starter Flex
- Start date
Do not use WD-40 on your shaft or anywhere else on your cue. Think long term. If you use an oil on wood for a quick fix, the chances of restoring the cue correctly down the road are lost.
Are talking the the original finish is worn or chipped, exposing the wood? If so, you can clean it normally and use any cue designated sealer. You may also spin some super glue.
Give me more info and I'll try to help any way I can.
Are talking the the original finish is worn or chipped, exposing the wood? If so, you can clean it normally and use any cue designated sealer. You may also spin some super glue.
Give me more info and I'll try to help any way I can.
ratcues said:
Thanks, Ryan.
There are two things. One is when the UV finish wears off up near the ferrule, just from normal cleaning after shooting a lot of pool, when chalk is on the ferrule and end of the shaft. On several shafts that I have, the finish wears away slowly. Typically, as I play a lot of pool, let's say that after about -- and here I am really estimating -- 100 hours of pool, maybe a lot more than that, I'm not sure, the UV finish wears thin and the wood eventually shows underneath. That wood then discolors very easily with chalk. That's one scenario.
The other is this: I have spuns several shafts in a drill with the purpose of taking the shaft down, making it slimmer, changing the taper and tip size, on purpose. After doing that, the bare wood is exposed. I'm not talking about expensive shafts that I'm worried about, just players. I don't want to spend a lot of money having the local cue guy do this work; I'm happy to do it myself, and wonder what could be a decent protectant after turning it down.
I don't have any spray equipment.
If not WD-40, what about carnauba wax?
Any suggestions are most appreciated.
Thanks so much.
Flex
There should not be any finish such as poly or UV around the ferrule. The shaft should only be sprayed up around 6 inches, give or take, from the collars. The stroking area needs a rubbed sealer of some type to seal and/or burnish the wood fibres. There are many on the market.
I do not have a lot of experience with the consumer products, even the ones we carry. I mean, I've tried them and they work but I use industrial products not sold to the general public.
Anyoen else? I get this question quite often and would like to hear what works for you, what doesn't, and why.
Anyoen else? I get this question quite often and would like to hear what works for you, what doesn't, and why.
desi2960 said:
Chuck's shafts are very smooth and some of that might be the sealer.
I use Karseal Q Wax from Muellers and it works great. http://www.poolndarts.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/Catalog.SearchProcess.cfm I've tried every wax and cue slick'r product around and this is the slickest I've found. Much better than the bowling alley wax that was being talked about because what's his name from Florida uses it.
But I'm not a cuemaker. Just a guy that spins shafts when necessary... and loves making'm slick! :thumbup:
ratcues said:
this is the nuts the best stuff out there period
has 3 waxes and sealer top left of page save a shaft sealer
http://www.briannaproducts.com/shaftcare.htm
brianna187 said:
this is the nuts the best stuff out there period
has 3 waxes and sealer top left of page save a shaft sealer
http://www.briannaproducts.com/shaftcare.htm
I use this stuff from Lee and it works great.
dave sutton
Banned
desi2960 said:
i agree. ive used alot but C.H. sealer and wax is the best ive ever used...imo
dave see you in a month .........leedave sutton said:
dave sutton
Banned
month and a half but yep. cant wait.
Thanks to everyone who suggested ways to do this.
One friend sent me a PM suggesting a simple leather burnishing followed by a wax papering works great.
I had heard that idea before, and will be trying it out. Oh, by the way, he also offered me some of Hightower's shaft sealer, although he doesn't use it.
A question about WD40...
I've used it on quite a few shafts that had been retapered, followed by a liberal coating of McGuiars Carnauba wax. And then some more WD40.
Those shafts are still fine, and it's been perhaps 2 years or so since I treated them with that stuff.
Plus, a simple respraying of WD40 on the shaft seems to renew it just fine.
Is there something inherently wrong, as in damaging, by doing this?
Flex
One friend sent me a PM suggesting a simple leather burnishing followed by a wax papering works great.
I had heard that idea before, and will be trying it out. Oh, by the way, he also offered me some of Hightower's shaft sealer, although he doesn't use it.
A question about WD40...
I've used it on quite a few shafts that had been retapered, followed by a liberal coating of McGuiars Carnauba wax. And then some more WD40.
Those shafts are still fine, and it's been perhaps 2 years or so since I treated them with that stuff.
Plus, a simple respraying of WD40 on the shaft seems to renew it just fine.
Is there something inherently wrong, as in damaging, by doing this?
Flex
If you take the shaft and run over it with a truck, there's a chance that it can be restored to somewhat near its previous playing condition. The solvents in the WD-40 will soak in to the core. I don't know of anything that can get it that gummy stuff out. I can't think of any use that I've ever had for WD-40 where the part didn't eventually gum up in to worse shape than it was before starting. Mind you I still use it to free rusted parts, but I always know I'll be back to get the gook off.
Just my humble opinion.
Just my humble opinion.
dchristal said:
I can appreciate the gummy factor. But wood is not metal.
What exactly does WD40 do to wood that harms it, that's my central question, because it's plenty easy to keep a shaft playing nicely using WD40, or Pledge, or Carnauba Wax, and I'd be willing to bet a whole lot of other products.
Flex
JimS said:
I just checked out his website and only found a product to raise the wood fibers before using a sealer. BTW, a damp cloth wiped over wood will raise the fibers, and using a hair dryer will speed up the process. Using a damp cloth is free, his grain raising product will set you back some cash.
Did you find a sealer product somewhere on his website?
Flex