Glue Down Method

ThinSlice

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So I am recovering my table. I have done it several times on this table and prior tables. The glue down method is speaking however I tried it once with the 3M product (forgot the name at the moment but was the contact cement in a can). Was the roll on type not the spray on.

Anyways I didn’t have much success since I live in swarm area and the setup time was rapid. Now that I am doing it again would any of you have a suggestion regarding staple vs say RKC glue? Is the. RKC glue better than the 3 M and is it superior to staples?

My table is a GCV.


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trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
Thinnnnnn!!! How you doing man???!!!!

Funny though, I just had a veteran Mechanic ask me about using staples!!
He had to install some leg levelers for a mutual client and noticed I use them still. I use staples when there is a wood backer to staple to. I don't like the smell of any of the adhesives and nor do I like getting it on my skin. It all is solvent based and I only use the glue down method on tables that have no wood backer, aka I only use the method on Diamonds.


It sounds to me like you might just wanna use staples? When done correctly, I cannot say one is better than the other. As for "dry time" I usually wait till it feels like it is completely dry to the touch.

It is "contact"<<---(key term) adhesive, pressure is a big part of it adhering. My final words of advice: It is tough enough to learn the glue down method and totally worth it if you have to do it for work, but, to do it for the occasional re-cover every couple of years: just stick to what already worked for ya!
Just my $0.02

TFT

p.s. RKC 250 does not work well with 3m Fastbond n10-- from my experience you must remove all the old adhesive to use the RKC250, they don's seem to play well together. It does work with parabond m250 though!!



So I am recovering my table. I have done it several times on this table and prior tables. The glue down method is speaking however I tried it once with the 3M product (forgot the name at the moment but was the contact cement in a can). Was the roll on type not the spray on.

Anyways I didn’t have much success since I live in swarm area and the setup time was rapid. Now that I am doing it again would any of you have a suggestion regarding staple vs say RKC glue? Is the. RKC glue better than the 3 M and is it superior to staples?

My table is a GCV.


Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums
 
Last edited:

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
Thinnnnnn!!! How you doing man???!!!!

Funny though, I just had a veteran Mechanic ask me about using staples!!
He had to install some leg levelers for a mutual client and noticed I use them still. I use staples when there is a wood backer to staple to. I don't like the smell of any of the adhesives and nor do I like getting it on my skin. It all is solvent based and I only use the glue down method on tables that have no wood backer, aka I only use the method on Diamonds.


It sounds to me like you might just wanna use staples? When done correctly, I cannot say one is better than the other. As for "dry time" I usually wait till it feels like it is completely dry to the touch.

It is "contact"<<---(key term) adhesive, pressure is a big part of it adhering. My final words of advice: It is tough enough to learn the glue down method and totally worth it if you have to do it for work, but, to do it for the occasional re-cover every couple of years: just stick to what already worked for ya!
Just my $0.02

TFT

p.s. RKC 250 does not work well with 3m Fastbond n10-- from my experience you must remove all the old adhesive to use the RKC250, they don's seem to play well together. It does work with parabond m250 though!!

Cmon Trent, seriously??? Who doesnt like sniffing glue??? You cant even put a Sharpie in my hands without me pulling the cap off to test the smell of it. :D:D:D
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
Cmon Trent, seriously??? Who doesnt like sniffing glue??? You cant even put a Sharpie in my hands without me pulling the cap off to test the smell of it. :D:D:D

NICE ONE FAST1!!!! In a non-ventilated room, the stuff is POTENT. I can handle the smell for the first few minutes, after that the "fun of the smell" turns into light headedness / tingles and I gotta get outta there:thumbup:!! AHAHAHHAHA

TFT
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
RKC is not as stinky as the 3M fastbond stuff. On a table with backer boards, I use staples and only use glue in the pockets. Leave a little slack in the sides, and close them off before pulling the ends if the radius is tight.
 

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I was gonna make a similar joke, but, he is my buddy and I would not do that. NOT SAYING I WON'T LAUGH AT YOUR JOKE THOUGH!!! AHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHHAHHA, too much blue glue!

Trent - I was obviously playing for laughs.
But it is a serious subject. A factor in poor personalities and sudden personality change for the worse can be chronic poor sleep patterns. Often from pulmonary issues. (sleep apnea/poor breathing) A big factor for that can be constant exposure to solvents, among many other things. I'm not exactly unfamiliar, shall we say, and leave it at that.

Safety protection guys.
Lungs and everything else.

smt
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
As I said, I dont use it unless I have to!! Safety first for sure! HAPPY 4TH!!


TFT

Trent - I was obviously playing for laughs.
But it is a serious subject. A factor in poor personalities and sudden personality change for the worse can be chronic poor sleep patterns. Often from pulmonary issues. (sleep apnea/poor breathing) A big factor for that can be constant exposure to solvents, among many other things. I'm not exactly unfamiliar, shall we say, and leave it at that.

Safety protection guys.
Lungs and everything else.

smt
 

Texas Carom Club

9ball did to billiards what hiphop did to america
Silver Member
the guy that put simonis on my bar table used 3m77 spray and its starting to come loose in the texas summer, even though i have my mini split running all day

might have to go to the titebond 3m, as i saw zack mention the spray wouldnt be enough to hold the stretch of simonis, but this guy didnt stretch it with measurements anyway like the zack would have

and anyone i get in houston will just repeat the same thing as the first guy
my tables slow for having new simonis :/
 

fiftyyardline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thinnnnnn!!! How you doing man???!!!!

Funny though, I just had a veteran Mechanic ask me about using staples!!
He had to install some leg levelers for a mutual client and noticed I use them still. I use staples when there is a wood backer to staple to. I don't like the smell of any of the adhesives and nor do I like getting it on my skin. It all is solvent based and I only use the glue down method on tables that have no wood backer, aka I only use the method on Diamonds.


It sounds to me like you might just wanna use staples? When done correctly, I cannot say one is better than the other. As for "dry time" I usually wait till it feels like it is completely dry to the touch.

It is "contact"<<---(key term) adhesive, pressure is a big part of it adhering. My final words of advice: It is tough enough to learn the glue down method and totally worth it if you have to do it for work, but, to do it for the occasional re-cover every couple of years: just stick to what already worked for ya!
Just my $0.02

TFT

p.s. RKC 250 does not work well with 3m Fastbond n10-- from my experience you must remove all the old adhesive to use the RKC250, they don's seem to play well together. It does work with parabond m250 though!!

Re removing previous glue prior to using RKC250 - what is the best thing to use to remove old glue residue on the slate - acetone?
 

ROB.M

:)
Silver Member
Table

I use the RKC250 on any and every table I can.
Removing the old glue does not require any chemicals...
Just use old fashion elbow grease.
You can see the glue I removed from around the outer edge face, top and bottom.
So clean and prepped for fresh glue, no mess that a chemical/solvent will leave you with..
Use the search function on the forums... I think myself and others posted about removing glue years ago in the past.
I’ll send you a PM and give you a few tips.


Rob.M
 

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trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
Wow,

Elbow grease sounds like too much work when you have 12 of them to do!

Finding a good adhesive remover is tough these days. Most of them do not
have "the good stuff" in them anymore. I only have about 2 gallons of the
old stuff that actually works. I mean 10 minutes and it liquifies the adhesives.
The new replacement takes 6-8 hours and does not work worth a shit. I don't
like working on Valleys, most likely will save all the remover I have left for
DIAMONDS!!

TFT
 
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