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zilemok
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what should I know to get a cue built? - 11-17-2013, 03:05 AM

I would like to get a custom cue someday but I hardly know anything about cues. So may I ask what are the questions you ask a completely ignorant customer to help them build a cue? I would like to do some research on my own before approaching a cue maker. Thanks in advance
  
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11-17-2013, 03:58 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by zilemok View Post
I would like to get a custom cue someday but I hardly know anything about cues. So may I ask what are the questions you ask a completely ignorant customer to help them build a cue? I would like to do some research on my own before approaching a cue maker. Thanks in advance

First you have to know what works best for you. You have to think about what you prefer for weight and then how you prefer the weight distributed which is known as the balance point. Next you should consider based upon your grip and stroke how long you would prefer the cue. The standard length of cues build today is 58 inches, but depending upon the type of pool you play and the other factors mentioned above cues can be built almost any length up to about 61 inches. With that considered next I would think about the diameter of the cues shaft. The standard size today is 13 mm, however, again depending upon what is comfortable for you and the games you play shaft diameter can be anywhere from 14 mm to as little as 10 mm. After you have found what you need from above you should consider the cues design and materials you would like it made from. This is where the cost of building the cue will come into play and today the sky is literally the limit. Custom cues can cost as little as $150 for a Plain Jane Sneaky Pete, or as much or more than $10,000 it all depends on what you want and how deep your pockets are.
Last most but not all custom cues will come with 2 Shafts, I would recommend having two for convenience.

When you have considered the things above and you are ready to approach a cue maker make a point to nail down the time table for the build and their policy for correcting problems that are not the result of abuse. Let's face it shit happens, and a fair cue maker will correct these kind of problems at no expense to you. If the person you choose to build your cue doesn't correct problems that may occur, I would find another cue maker to work with. Last do not rely upon word of mouth, get everything nailed down in writing. By this I mean communicate by email and save them. This way what is said is set in stone, which will save confusion later and identify what is agreed to if a problem arise.

Hope this helps, I am certain there is much more to think about. However, what i have written will get you started in the right direction.

Take care


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Craig W. Rittel
  
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11-17-2013, 06:59 AM

Thanks for your helpful reply! Would I be able to customise the joint pins type as well? Like all the 3/8, 5/16 etc? And would I have to choose the type of ferrule or most cue makers have their own preferences for these items?
  
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11-17-2013, 09:26 AM

Tell the Cuemaker the names of cues you have played with & what you liked or disliked about them. then tell him about cues you have seen & what you liked about their looks...JER
  
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11-17-2013, 10:26 AM

Best advice is to use a LOCAL cue maker!!! Second best advice is to visit often!!!

Kd

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11-17-2013, 07:07 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by manwon View Post
Custom cues can cost as little as $150 for a Plain Jane Sneaky Pete
Where can I find one of these?


The best cue; is the one that's with you.

4x8 JB Cases - Rugged Navy Blue
Mcdermott G218 - I-2 Shaft - Kamui Soft Tip
Mcdermott Sledgehammer - Maple Shaft - Phenolic Tip
  
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11-19-2013, 10:47 AM

Following up on manwon's post.....

Butt diameter is very important since all of us have different size hands and length fingers.
Shaft taper is important and you should find out what type and length you prefer.
Ferrules....what material and length? Cue-makers like Gilbert & Carmeli prefer shorter lengths and every cue-maker has their own approach.
Cue Joint, i.e., steel, phenolic, wood, ivory (flat faced or piloted)?
Joint Pin.......5/16 x14, 3/8x10, 3/8 x 11, Uni-Loc etc.?
Cue Weight..... do you have a specific weight in mind? Do you want your cue made with or without a weight bolt?
Wrap material........get it right the first time so you don't have to change later on....same with the cue tips.


"My Pool Cues"

*Bob Owen Custom- Level 8 (s/d 4-24-16) - Flat Ivory Joint
*J. Rauenzahn Custom - Level 6 (s/d 5-4-16) - Flat Ivory Joint

*J. Rauenzahn Custom - Level 8 (s/d 2-23-15) - Flat Ivory Joint
*Ed Prewitt Custom '05 - Level 8 - Flat Ivory Joint
*Bob Owen Custom - Level 8 (s/d 5-4-14) - Flat Ivory Joint
*Tim Scruggs Custom (9-6-95) Level 7 - Flat Ivory Joint
*Runde Schon '85 Custom "R" Series (1 of 1)
*Palmer (Original) - '72 (All Cocobolo Wood)

Last edited by Bavafongoul; 11-19-2013 at 10:50 AM.
  
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11-19-2013, 11:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by manwon View Post
First you have to know what works best for you. You have to think about what you prefer for weight and then how you prefer the weight distributed which is known as the balance point. Next you should consider based upon your grip and stroke how long you would prefer the cue. The standard length of cues build today is 58 inches, but depending upon the type of pool you play and the other factors mentioned above cues can be built almost any length up to about 61 inches. With that considered next I would think about the diameter of the cues shaft. The standard size today is 13 mm, however, again depending upon what is comfortable for you and the games you play shaft diameter can be anywhere from 14 mm to as little as 10 mm. After you have found what you need from above you should consider the cues design and materials you would like it made from. This is where the cost of building the cue will come into play and today the sky is literally the limit. Custom cues can cost as little as $150 for a Plain Jane Sneaky Pete, or as much or more than $10,000 it all depends on what you want and how deep your pockets are.
Last most but not all custom cues will come with 2 Shafts, I would recommend having two for convenience.

When you have considered the things above and you are ready to approach a cue maker make a point to nail down the time table for the build and their policy for correcting problems that are not the result of abuse. Let's face it shit happens, and a fair cue maker will correct these kind of problems at no expense to you. If the person you choose to build your cue doesn't correct problems that may occur, I would find another cue maker to work with. Last do not rely upon word of mouth, get everything nailed down in writing. By this I mean communicate by email and save them. This way what is said is set in stone, which will save confusion later and identify what is agreed to if a problem arise.

Hope this helps, I am certain there is much more to think about. However, what i have written will get you started in the right direction.

Take care
It really doesn't get any better than this for advice. I will add one more thing however...be wary of anyone asking for the full price of the build upfront. Once they have all your money, there is often very little incentive for them to be timely in delivering you a cue...if at all. Some makers do ask for between 25 - 50% of the final build price, as a guarantee that they will not get 'stuck' should a customer decide to bail mid-build, leaving them with a cue they may not be able to sell, due to specs requested from the original customer.


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