Anniversary Rails

Lawnboy77 said:

I thought I had the perfect opportunity to document and video the difference between the two back when my table was first restored. The contract I signed said the restorer of my table would install K-55 Black Diamond cushions, no mention of rail mods, and I knew I would be getting custom pro-cut rails from Mark Gregory...so anyway, I was setup to document the two setups, but low and behold, guess what the restorer installed on my rails? Yes, el cheapo K-66 cushions. Just like what Geoff mentioned earlier, the nose cushion height was 1-1/2". It played terrible, there were many situations that weren't even possible, for example a 5 rail bank/kick, or even a two rail back and forth, the second rail contact was a crazy angle. Oh well, maybe this post will give a heads up to anyone who runs into this situation again to document the difference. Needless to say I was ecstatic to get the Mark Gregory rails installed, it was like real pool again. LOL

I want to put a good plug in for Jack Zimmerman as well. I sent him the original rails for overhaul and those original rails now also play lights out. In the case of those rails it was pretty much a no-brainer that they needed new sub rails, they were stapled out and the rail facings angles were all over the place. It was obvious that my table had plenty of history at the old pool hall in Waxahachie Texas and it was time for overhaul.

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trentfromtoledo said:

I was talking about the un=modified superspeed rail and modified subrail with superspeeds k66= BAD

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Lawnboy77 said:

Yeah I know the ideal comparison was Superspeed on unmodified rail vs. Superspeed on recalibrated rail, but it would have been a worthy comparison since both Black Diamond and Superspeed are K-55 and considered comparable in quality, price and play.

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Chip Roberson said:

Been reading this post and others concerning rail work. I have one of the first Centennial's built. The long rails are one piece down each side of the table. I've had maybe 15 or 20 runs over 100 balls in the last few years now , and the table plays good , but the pockets will rattle em out if your not on your toes. One thing about this old table is it banks short by almost two balls when going for the sides and every one of these early tables that I have ever played on have banked way short as well. If the K55 will play short with out sub rail mods, will the K55's play shorter than what is on the table now, (rails have never been modified) ? I'm 68 and a bit and want to finish up working on my find (had her about 6 years now) , just thinking that the pocket angles should be reworked, and I'm sure with rails as old as these , they will need to be replaced as well,,don't want it to be fast ,,fast I like to let my stroke out , if ya know what I mean.

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Chip Roberson said:

Yep Rosewood rails and the sub carrier is as you mentioned. I'm back up in the woods in South Western Va . Getting the rails out to be done and getting them back will be a problem. Besides playing the game , I've worked rebuilding tables ever since I was 14 and now 68. Replacing the rail rubbers is something I have done before for people and they liked my work. I'm sure I can handle this job as well. The main point of interest was the modern rails from what I had read wouldn't work on my rails, but from what you have stated , they should , and at least be better than the short banking rails on the table now. Thanks !

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Chip Roberson said:

Should I follow dropping the rails 1/16 of an inch idea as Bradshaw indicated. If so I was thinking about using a product called The Right Stuff
and troweling it in to fill in the gap and let it set up. The stuff sets up as hard as a car tire when finished drying. Have used it for years working on
hot rod cars I've owned.

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Chip Roberson said:

Should I follow dropping the rails 1/16 of an inch idea as Bradshaw indicated. If so I was thinking about using a product called The Right Stuff
and troweling it in to fill in the gap and let it set up. The stuff sets up as hard as a car tire when finished drying. Have used it for years working on
hot rod cars I've owned.

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Chip Roberson said:

Last question and then I will leave in peace , hopefully. The name for the 3M glue to be used on the rails and new facings. As far as using the Right stuff , the only place it would come in contact with the rails , would be on top of the rail and right where it buttons to the wood part of the rail. Mr Bradshaw had mentioned dropping the rail 1/16 of an inch for proper installation , when using the K55 rails and that would leave an unsightly gap at the top,,since I will be changing out the rails myself, just thought , the gap could be taken care of. By laying down a bead of the Stuff then carefully trowing the simi liquid down and filling in the gap and being also careful not to make a mess with it, the gap would not be noticeable

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jviss said:

I think you are using incorrect terminology here, or perhaps I will learn a lesson. "Rails" are not the rubber, but the wooden part to which the rubber cushions are attached.

(Am I correct?)

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trentfromtoledo said:

Are you still here?? What does it matter to you?? He works on tables and you do not... Simple as this: it doesn't matter what you "think" and your opinion reaaaally doesn't. This was a conversation between 3 people that work on tables and I know for a fact that I do not need your interjection. The other 2 will likely agree. I was not "mean" or "bashing" you, simply putting you in your place: outside this conversation. That is because you do not have ANY input. <<This part is super obvious because of what you posted...

TFT

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jviss said:

BTW, my question was posed to Chip Roberson, in case that wasn't clear.

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• Talk To A Mechanic <<< 3 guys that work on tables are chatting, in comes someone who says something stupid that obviously has no place in the conversation. I am the one with mental issues? PSHHHHH.. Go play in traffic.

trentfromtoledo said:

I clearly stated that.

The back of the cushion of the Monarch Superspeed and the Brunswick Superspeed are the same. The angle of the subrail is the same.

The main difference in the old Superspeed Cushions and Modern is the top of the subrail to the nose of the cushion is bigger. The nose height of the cushion is the same.

The only thing doing a subrail mod is actually reducing the subrail to make the 50" x 100" by the 1/8" per rail and 1/32" for the cloth.

I asked you for the correct nose height measurement= no answer.

Now I am going to ask you this: Do you know what the degree of the angle of bevel for the face of the subrail ??

This has been a beaten dead issue that IMO is mostly bull$hit. I have done all the measurements and have my own opinion that I have developed from talking with all of the key players who perform these subrail mods and my experience with the tables I mentioned in my last post.

TFT

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