Carbon front travelers cue

Wilk

Registered
So I have a carbon shaft blank that is less than perfect. Good news is that the warp seems to be right around 20 in from the tip end. I am thinking trying a travelers cue with it.

Two tough parts.

A. The reverse tapered plug needed at the south end of the first joint. My best guess is basically making a Juma based dry wall expander. Smaller than tap drilled, and cross cut at 120 deg increments. Then forcing a well oiled metal rod into it to get it to expand and glue to the outside walls. Could even cone drill it and use a warm stake to help the forming, and glue if needed. Should be pretty basic afterwords if that works.

B. Materials of both the plug and screw. I am 90% sure I am going to give FR4 a try for the screw just so I know for certain. If it can handle that joint than I never have to worry about it as a real joint screw. Still guessing at the best thread, leaning 5/16-18, but I think the plug material kinda determines this for you to a point.

I initially said Juma above for the plug material as a generic term. Needs to be light weight, but yet handle the stress. I love tomahawk for most uses, but I think thermoplastics are a bit soft laterally for this job, yet most of the canvas phenoloics we tend to use are to heavy. Juma actually seems to be a decent middle ground for a test.

Does anyone have any experience that is relevant here? Or even a good quess that you can support?
 

S.Vaskovskyi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
May be I'm just lost in my translation of what you described. :scratchhead:
The main question for me what you're trying to achieve.
Last month I've got finally my blanks I was waiting for. I've already built two shafts and currently playing with one of them. The second one is for my student.
So before starting the work I tried to determine what features I was looking for.
The first was the weight of a finished shaft and second was the balance.
So after that the calculation is pretty simple because the weight of a finished shaft is the sum of those parts it includes.
So once you understand the construction you're going to use after that you just need to find out the weight of each part of the shaft. The blank's weight is already known.
You want to get the needed weight of the insert in the joint end and make it in such way it allows you to fill the shaft easily with whatever you're going to use.
Really important part is the filling procedure. When you determined and got your "filler" read carefully the instruction how it works and it is a good idea to have some practise on any tube close in length and diameter so to see the process and results. Once you understood the nature of the stuff you're going to fill with you'll be able to find out the best way to fill the blank with it.
Well in my case I've ordered two part-expanding foam which is used by those who work with composites. I've bought two different densities. Actually the first part A is the same the different part is B. I've got 2,2 and 4 lb. My idea was to fill that half from the joint with a densier one and the rest part to the tip with a lighter one.
The thing is once I got them and after some practice understood how it works and how much time I have it in a fluid state before it starts to expand ...well I've just realized that the most important thing is the tube is filled completely on the needed length without any gaps.
That was the turning point for finding the easy way to make the procedure pretty easy and what is the most important you'll be able to control it and make some steps afterwards if needed to correct.
Now my simple calculation: the blanks I got weighed 55 and 57 gramms and they are 30" 12,6 mm at the tip with a 17-18" pro-taper. The finished shafts weigh 92 and 95 gramms. The foam added 14-15 gramms and the rest are the other parts. Both shafts built for 3/8-10 joint pin. I've used phenolic for the inserts, tomahawk and moose horn for the "internal" ferrules. Tomahawk is for my student and gives a softer hit. Moose horn is for me and the hit is more crisp. The good thing about tomahawk...it is non porous so it is much easier to work together with this black damn stuff...easy to get it clean and a big plus it is lighter what is good for less deflection. With something like a moose horn it is a totally different story...needs to be sealed and the visible external part of my ferrule is twice thinner comparing to that one for the student. I don't see much difference in deflection.
I wish you good luck with your job.
P.S. The blanks I got are also not perfectly straight especially when checking in the lathe. I don't see that during playing at the table so it does not affect my performance and when it comes to the taper, the finish, wall thickness, feel...I'm really satisfied here but still there's enough space for the improvement ahead for those who manufacture them. At least comparing to the first one I got last year from another supplier it is night and day for the better).
 
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