What is the best ferrule material

Ron Padilla

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I haven’t done the research either, I was always under the impression that ivory is a very hard sold hitting feral, but some have told me that it is just the opposite and that it is soft hitting and that an Ivoren feral hits much harder and that is what I would want if wanting a hard stiff hit


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HawaiianEye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
FWIW, the ferrules that McDermott used back in the early 80s (C-models) play really good.

I had used ivory up until I played with my first McDermott. Since then, none of my cues have had ivory ferrules.
 

jasonlaus

Rep for Smorg
Silver Member
Sorry for not using the search Function. I am trying to educate my self on the matter and learning everyday, '' Don't go writing hot checks down in Mississippi and their ain't no good chain gangs'' were learning pretty well to . Or something to that effect, Again I apologize I forget to try the search function first. will do next time. I think my current cue has a Juma ferrule. I will see what my repair guy has to offer on the next go around. Thanks

I only use my phone for AZ and the search function doesnt work - no need to apologize.

I did figure out I could google what I wanted to search and add AZ Billiards to it and that works.
 

Snooker Theory

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
if you go to google and type
site:forums.azbilliards.com "whatever you are looking for AZ"
it seems to work better for me than using the built-in search function
 

Double-Dave

Developing cue-addict
Silver Member
I was fortunate enough to be able to buy quite a bit of the original MasonH micarta directly from MasonH and it is to this day the best ferrule material for me. It is also what we use on our highest-end shafts unless the customer wants something else.

Why? It is one of the lightest ferrule materials out there while still being hard enough to provide a good hit and it stays perfectly clean.

Every ferrule material has some sort of compromise, the compromise with the MasonH stuff is that is far from white (more of a translucent slight green) and it is not the strongest material out there. It's not weak by any means but other materials are stronger.

Regards, Dave
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
I was fortunate enough to be able to buy quite a bit of the original MasonH micarta directly from MasonH and it is to this day the best ferrule material for me. It is also what we use on our highest-end shafts unless the customer wants something else.

Why? It is one of the lightest ferrule materials out there while still being hard enough to provide a good hit and it stays perfectly clean.

Every ferrule material has some sort of compromise, the compromise with the MasonH stuff is that is far from white (more of a translucent slight green) and it is not the strongest material out there. It's not weak by any means but other materials are stronger.

Regards, Dave
I agree.
I still got quite a bit of the rods. I make them to my own specs.
If I run out, I'll probably switch to the brown paper micarta.
 

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Tommy-D

World's best B player...
Silver Member
It depends on what I'm trying to accomplish.

Let's say the customer has an old Meucci,and wants to try to stay close to original. I go with Juma or Elforyn. If they want something that maybe looks a little different but a tougher material I recommend Tomahawk. Tomahawk is also my go-to for Predator replacements on the rare occasion I see them.

As a player,I still like the 1" capped Joey mentioned because that's what I grew up with,spending 20 years with the original ivory ferruled shafts my Schon came with,and prefer Mason as material. I also like the bright red G-10 pads as far as aesthetics.

If someone wants the strongest material I have,it's the LBM from Warther's,which he's apparently out of for the time being.

I also have some of the Porper threaded/capped stuff for import upgrades.

My next 2 shafts for myself will have a 1 1/4 thin walled Mason and a capped Tomahawk ferrule. Tommy D.
 

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I only use my phone for AZ and the search function doesnt work - no need to apologize.

I did figure out I could google what I wanted to search and add AZ Billiards to it and that works.

Mine didnt work either, but when I press search, then go to advanced search, it works.
 

j2pac

Marital Slow Learner.
Staff member
Moderator
Gold Member
Silver Member
Tomahawk. It's good enough for Dz, and MVP. :wink:
 

Pete

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I remember years ago someone posted/talked about a jump cue with a bowling ball ferrule (ferrule made out of a bowling ball). Said it jumped (at the time) like no other cue if I remember correctly...
 

WildWing

Super Gun Mod
Silver Member
FWIW, the ferrules that McDermott used back in the early 80s (C-models) play really good.

I had used ivory up until I played with my first McDermott. Since then, none of my cues have had ivory ferrules.

Early McDermott, C or D models. More than likely white fiber. Very good, but do your best to keep them clean. They pick up chalk dust easily.

All the best,
WW
 

Chairman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Early McDermott, C or D models. More than likely white fiber. Very good, but do your best to keep them clean. They pick up chalk dust easily.



All the best,

WW



FWIW - a wet paper towel with a bit of baking soda cleans the old McD ferrules right up. Burnish your tip after, and good as new.
 

brilliance

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hi

I had Mason Micarta and did not like it, for some reason it does hits stiff but hit feels dead to me.

Do you guys make capped or uncapped and if uncapped does ferule material makes difference?
 

spktur

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
FWIW - a wet paper towel with a bit of baking soda cleans the old McD ferrules right up. Burnish your tip after, and good as new.

And if you do this every time you play they really look good. Good playing ferrule but appearance value sucks
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
ABS is a very common plastic that is found in cues. It is in the multi-polymer thermoplastic family. This means that it becomes soft when heated and hardens when cooled. It is a softer plastic and is somewhat prone to cracking. It is also best wet sanded to keep it from melting into the sandpaper. It takes a finish okay and glues up well.

Delrin or Acetal is another plastic that has been used in cues for many years. It is mostly used for butt plates because of its strength. Within the boundaries of thermoplastic chemistry it is considered to be virtually a flawless material. It should be threaded on because it does not glue very well. Therefore, it should not be used for ferrules because it might reject the tip glue. It does not take a finish very well, so I only recommend it for butt plates and joint protectors. It is also an excellent collet material.

PVC is another softer plastic than can be obtained in an array of colors. It works almost identical to ABS and is best wet sanded. If you don’t like to wet sand your plastics because you get the wood next to it wet then slow the lathe down some and get on and off of it quickly so as not to build up heat. PVC and ABS both make okay parts for ferrules, joints and butt plates.
Some of them have a spring reaction when compressed which actually increases the action in a cue. They also work as shock absorbers. Now you are starting to see why the Meucci and Predator robots like similar materials. If you drop a cue ball on the floor it will bounce slightly. Cue balls are very similar in material to some of the harder joint and ferrule materials. Drop a softer plastic ball on the floor and you get a bigger bounce. Hit a ball with a softer joint and or softer ferrule and you get that spring action and increase the power in the cue. But go too soft and the hit is worse than too hard.
There are a few set backs with the softer materials, though. The finish normally lifts from them with the slightest ding. They are also more prone to cracking. They are more sensitive to heat as well. This means you might get some swelling if you bake it in the trunk of your car on a hot day. They will be more brittle when brought in from the cold also.
None of those are the main reason I quit using them very much in my cues however. I now use them very little because I would try to draw the ball two feet and draw it six feet or try to draw it six and draw it two. If you want to load it up and get all you could on a ball, they are great for that. They also moved the ball effortlessly, but they were too unpredictable for tight shape play. I might try a softer ferrule again sometime, now that there are some solid capped ferrules out there that play softer.
Some would never believe a cue could have too much action. The reason why you can have too much action is that the game of pool is going to faster cloth. Back in the 80’s, when the cloth was slower at most tournaments the Meucci cues ruled the felt. Now that super fast cloth is what is being played on, the super high action cues are not what the majority or the pros are playing with. Remember most of them already have super strokes.

High Impact plastics is a general term for various plastics that are not as prone to cracking when struck or pressed. Some are similar to ABS and PVC, but many secret formulas have been introduced into the cue market today as so many are trying to produce Low Deflection shafts. We have a High Action Low Deflection ferrule material that has become our number one selling ferrule material to our cuemaker customers. White Linen is our second best seller.

Juma is a modern material that is becoming popular for ferrules and other rings and butt plates in cues. It holds a finish better than ABS or PVC. It gives kind of a natural hit and is available in a few colors. The black color is more consistent than most modern Linen Phenolic.

Linen Fiber or Linen Phenolic has become the number one choice for joint and butt material among American cue makers. This is a linen reinforced resin material. Because it has cloth run through it, this makes it a very tough and stable material. Atlas Billiard Supply introduced a double black version of this material many years ago and it was the standard for a long time. The original type was made for the electrical industry and the weave in the linen was coarse and the color was greenish-black. The dust is supposed be to really bad for you and you should wear a respirator or use an exhaust fan to carry the dust away from you. This material glues well, takes a finish well and is very strong.

Linen Based Melamine, Aegis II, and Ivorine-3, all linen reinforced material similar to the linen phenolic. They are white to off-white in color. They can be used for joints, butt plates and ferrules. Ferrules are best solid capped when using them. I have played with White Linen-Base ferrules for years and have used them almost exclusively on my cues. The only exceptions would be Ivory on high end shafts and softer High-Action ferrules for the mile long draw shot guys who requested it on their cue. Of the three listed above, I feel Aegis II plays the hardest. Then comes LBM, and Ivorine-3 is the softest. They are all far from being soft, however.

Micarta is a popular ferrule material. The really old Westing House material is still sought after and people are willing to pay big bucks for it. The modern Micarta is a little different from the older stuff, but still has a yellow tint to it and gives a medium hard hit that is very unique.

Polyester Pearl is a plastic that can be almost any color and has the swirled pearl look to. The modern material is not as pretty as the older stuff. It is too brittle for ferrules.

Cotton Fiber was the standard ferrule material you see on older house cues. It is really strong and almost never breaks. It does get dirty easier and tends to swell when it comes into contact with excess moisture. Many pre-made decorative rings were made out of this. It is no longer being made.

Carbon Fiber has become the latest craze for shafts. I have been told by a manufacturer of the material that it is only a matter of time until the right formula gets developed and makes wood shafts obsolete like they have done with the tennis rackets and golf clubs.

Elephant Ivory ferrules are the best looking and easiest to keep clean. They play with a harder hit that some love and others hate. They are prone to cracking.

Stag horn makes good ferrules and hits softer than Ivory.

Buffalo horn is pretty strong and hits similar to Ivory but a little softer. The main draw back with it is that it is a black material.

Moose horn tips make good playing strong ferrule.

Deer and elk make decent ferrules if you can get non pithy pieces.

The above information is copyrighted and is just posted here as a courtesy.
 
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