Using a Tip Pick on a Layered Tip

longhorns2 said:

What's the consensus on this?
I read somewhere (maybe a Kamui statement?) that you weren't supposed to used a tip pick on layered
tips because it could delaminate or mess with the layers or something.

But I feel like the tip holds chalk better and doesn't get as glazed after using a tip pick.

Click to expand...

Kamui is not a delicate tip, go ahead and blast it, rough the hell out of it.
enjoy your game.

Don't remember where I heard it, might have been an add for the gator grip but the reason for not using tip picks on layered tips was supposedly the pick leaves little holes all over the tip. the holes in the top layer get filled in with chalk and creates a "honeycomb effect" as they put it and reduces consistency and changes the hit. Twisting or spinning the pick on the tip instead of picking it would would probably work similar to a gator grip. Personaslly I use whatever is around, doubt it makes much difference in my game.

longhorns2 said:

What's the consensus on this? I read somewhere (maybe a Kamui statement?) that you weren't supposed to used a tip pick on layered tips because it could delaminate or mess with the layers or something.

Click to expand...

I've used one every day for twenty years on only laminated tips with never a problem.

If you use it right (tap the needle points straight into the tip and pull them straight out without twisting) it does no damage and doesn't even remove any leather (like scuffers do) - and it leaves a nice evenly "textured" tip (by raising the edges of the tiny holes as you pull the pinpoints out).

pj
chgo

Tip picls are great...I use them on all my tips with great results and never had an issue (and I've played with a lot of Kamui softs). It is the first thing I do in my process of roughing up: tip pick --> scuffer --> roll on tip --> wet sides of leather and burnish in Joe Porper thingy and then with piece of leather.

longhorns2 said:

What's the consensus on this? I read somewhere (maybe a Kamui statement?) that you weren't supposed to used a tip pick on layered tips because it could delaminate or mess with the layers or something.

But I feel like the tip holds chalk better and doesn't get as glazed after using a tip pick.

Click to expand...

I used to think like this and always used tip pick on Kamui med tips. However I was noticing that they would flatten out much faster and needed reshaping under heavy use

About 3 or 4 years ago, I won a gator grip on a contest here on AZ and started using it and never looked back. You can rough the surface up with a gator grip and not lose shape while also not creating that honeycomb effect with your tip pick and causing the leather to eventually lose shape.

longhorns2 said:

What's the consensus on this? I read somewhere (maybe a Kamui statement?) that you weren't supposed to used a tip pick on layered tips because it could delaminate or mess with the layers or something.

But I feel like the tip holds chalk better and doesn't get as glazed after using a tip pick.

Click to expand...

My tip guy, who is an excellent player, says they can pull the thin top layers right out of the top of the tip, and says he will never use one.

I install a decent amount of layered and single layer tips.
Approx. 100 a year.

And I also know alot of players who will immediately Grab a tip pick , tip tool , sandpaper , file...piece of concrete...after they miscue...or even miss a ball they think they should've made and start "fixing" their problem.
99.999 times out of 100. it was not the tip that hit it bad.

So...strictly in regards to layered tips.

Tip picks.
Well...think about what they do...penetrate and perforate.
Where.. and Because.. they don't remove material they will make a tip harder because they compress the material , as well as you lose the tips playing surface area that's replaced by chalk filled pot holes .....with the added risk of delaminating that miniscule top layer.....thus requiring it to be redressed down another layer.
And some of todays layered tip makers ...ahem....(tiger for 1)....barely give you enough room to dress it down more then 2x before you hit the red layer of done..

Now the more common people..
files and sanders....or as I call them...scrapers and scratchers.

Inevitably...they tear off the top layer then try to redress it on their own.....always turns out bad.
As well as now..atleast for a time being...the tip plays differently.
And will do so until those fibers you just scraped up get recompressed.
Also both home remedy methods risk compromising the lamentation bond to each other.

Another thing that I see players do alot is when they are done playing they rub their tip into the carpet.
Uh...carpet is for feet...its dirty...and you are essentially burnishing your tips playing surface.
Also other factors come into play when taking about tips....if the places you play have filthy balls all that dirt...fry grease..beer sweat...vomit....get on your tip as well....and affect the tips playing surface.

After I install any tip...
I always tell them what I recommend what not to do and will provide a maintenance service for them if needed for the life of the tip...I tell them play with it...if it looks like its mushrooming out or flattening...or not... just bring it to me and I'll take care of it.
As far as my tips on my playing cue....i put it on....break it in...light redress ...and i do not need to touch it for 6 to 12 months.
If I misscue....I chalk it up.

I like a tip with a regular grip. chalk does scuff up a tip some, but I like to just gently press the straight sandpaper aspect of my tip tool on my tip one time before I play.
that works for me. maybe a few times a year I'll use the coin-shaped part, and really expose a new layer of the tip.
I tried a layered tip and had mixed results. a good one piece always seem to do the job, and I think still does..