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Schwinn
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10-26-2015, 05:36 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cueman View Post
Maple has what I call compression action and that is desirable for draw shots and pocketing balls to me. Something has to give when the cue hits the cue ball. To still and it sends the cue ball off aiming line too much and too limber will do the same thing. Ebony falls on the too stiff side and Maple falls in the middle and it is no accident that maple has been the number one wood in quality pool cue shafts for longer than any of us have been alive. Maple compresses just the right amount and springs back where as Ebony does not.
There are people who love Ebony forearms feel and will adjust their game to it in time and never like a Maple forearm. So it is each to his own, but as far as I am concerned Maple is the Goldie Locks of cue woods.
That's interesting. Do you think curly/tiger or birdseye takes away from this or does it matter?

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10-26-2015, 09:29 PM

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Originally Posted by fish2 View Post
I thought maple was chosen for its tightness of grain which makes it smooth on the bridge hand....

if maple was more accurate why do snooker players use Ash wood ?
Smoothness of grain is one benefit, but not the only benefit. Ebony also has a fairly smooth grain. I think you will have to ask a Snooker player that question. Not all Snooker players like Ash better than maple. I have played with Ash before and it plays good, but feels kind of rough like oak. I am not sure why some prefer it as it seems to hit a lot like maple and is not a smooth grain wood. So Maple is still king with Ash being Prince.

Last edited by cueman; 10-26-2015 at 09:34 PM.
  
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10-26-2015, 09:31 PM

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Originally Posted by Schwinn View Post
That's interesting. Do you think curly/tiger or birdseye takes away from this or does it matter?

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In a forearm I think they both play pretty much the same as regular maple does, if they are all hard maple from the same region.
  
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Joe Barringer
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10-27-2015, 06:57 AM

This thread poses a very interesting question. Since we need more components than just wood to feel "playability", one then has to ask: what combination produces the best "playability"? Of course we have to also discuss who's playability because my "playability" is much different than your "playability" which is different than Hightower's "playability" or the next guys "playability".

Granted maple has been used for over a century and in many opinions produces the 'best' hitting cue. I think that's a stretch. Then, please define "best". I think it's the 'best' solely because it's the most available and the least expensive. But let us not discuss that statement and focus more upon the question of the thread.

Let's take a maple forearm with a maple handle joined with a steel connecting pin, stainless 3/8-10 joint pin, black phenolic collar and a maple shaft.

Let's also take a ebony forearm with a maple handle joined with a G10 connecting pin, ivory joint, G10 joint pin and a maple shaft.

How about a cocobolo with various combinations of the above. How about Bloodwood or other woods with various combinations. Would any of those create better "playability"?

And while we're at it let's take a maple forearm cored with .750 purpleheart and a cored maple handle with a .750 maple core with a G10 connecting pin, black phenolic collar and a stainless joint pin and maple shaft.

Let's also try out a Ebony forearm cored with a .750 maple core, and maple handle cored with purpleheart connected with a aluminum connecting pin, stag collar, 5/16-14 pin and maple shaft.

How about Ebony forearm cored with a .750 maple core, and maple handle cored with purpleheart connected with a titanium connecting pin, ivory collar, 5/16-14 pin and maple shaft.

And while we're at it let's take a maple forearm cored with .625 purpleheart and a cored maple handle with a .625 maple core with a G10 connecting pin, black phenolic collar and a stainless joint pin and maple shaft.

Let's take a maple forearm with a maple handle joined with a G10 connecting pin, stainless 5/16-18 joint pin, black phenolic collar and a maple shaft.

In fact, let's add 100 more combinations and then answer the question, which wood produces the best "playability"? You can probably make a balsa wood forearm, connect it with more favorable components and make the cue have better "playability" than the plain maple with a phenolic collar or should it be an ivory collar or should it be a stag collar or maybe a impregnated cocobolo collar. But to do that you'd have to test all those combinations with various other combinations and in the hands of myself, Hightower, Charlie, Fred, Sam and Pete. With so many possible combinations and so many different human beings, there can never be a definitive answer.

So why the heck did I type all this up? Because I'm amazed how a topic which can never have a definitive answer gets tossed around for days. There is no definitive answer to this age old question. Personally, it's an exercise in futility better known as mental masturbation.

And that's my 2.

And BTW... maple form Northern New York will be different from maple in Wisconsin and maple in Maine or the upper peninsula of Michigan. Exactly what maple are you using to make the comparison? :-) It could go on for a month.



Last edited by Joe Barringer; 10-27-2015 at 07:02 AM.
  
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10-27-2015, 10:42 AM

There is never a definitive answer to ANY question unless it is a fact or statistic. There are many topics and discussions going on that people find useful and you want to say that you dont approve of it. From this information I can narrow down to what type of cue I would want so I am able to have more insight when I get a custom cue created.

Im not angry or annoyed im curious what is your actual point.
  
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hit. - 10-27-2015, 03:56 PM

I believe that curly maple has a harder hit than birdseye maple. I deducted that from testing shafts made from both.


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10-30-2015, 05:58 AM

Assuming the cue is made by someone with the requisite skill and experience, this is what I have gleaned from the wisdom shared on this forum (and my own experience): a combination of maple, one of the various rosewoods, and/or purpleheart is a very good place to start.

Of course there are other woods to explore, but these are staples of many great playing cues.


Tom
  
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whammo57
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10-30-2015, 07:08 AM

You must also take into account the weight of various woods ebony rose woods Purple Heart can make you very heavy when you don't really desire it

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10-30-2015, 10:04 AM

Fish2 asked for opinions so no one can be wrong in replying to his question.

Occasionally someone attempts to "impress' us with their definitive answer but answers are like a certain part of our anatomy-everybody has one.

As to your question of me some posts back, Fish2, I like a maple(your choice of straight grain, curly, birdseye or mix of these), a purpleheart core, and then full cut points, not inlays of ebony or brazilian rosewood. A straight grain maple grip and the joined parts cut to the taper of your cuemaker.

The result is a fine looking cue that, IMO, plays well if the cuemaker does his part.
  
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JoeyInCali
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10-30-2015, 10:46 AM

Laminated bamboo can't be beat .
  
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Catamount
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11-01-2015, 05:08 AM

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Originally Posted by JoeyInCali View Post
Laminated bamboo can't be beat .
Tell us more. I've read good things about bamboo.


Tom
  
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11-01-2015, 06:50 AM

Since it was not mentioned directly, I like a nice piece of East Indian Rosewood as a front. I see quite a bit of weight variation in EIR and prefer it on the heavier side.

Alan
  
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11-01-2015, 11:30 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Catamount View Post
Tell us more. I've read good things about bamboo.
I've made several cues with laminated and cored bamboo handles. The owners felt like they played exceptionally nice. I have an article on my website about the attributes of bamboo. Here is a transcript of the article:
"A few words about bamboo: I have long been interested in bamboo as a material to use in cues since my frequent trips to Asia showed me the strength of bamboo used for scaffolding in buildings that were 30 stories and more high. My interest peaked when my grand sons told me they were now using bamboo to make baseball bats. Evidently the ball just flies off the bat, much like it does with aluminum bats. Further research revealed that bamboo has a tensile strength of 28,000 pound per square inch as compared to steel at 23,000 psi. Those figures are for raw bamboo, not laminated which increases the tensile strength many fold. The best bamboo to use for baseball bats (and pool cues) is called "Tonkin" which comes from Guangdong Providence in China. This is the same species that is used to make flyrods. I was fortunate enough to find a company that made laminates from Tonkin in a 3/4" thickness. By glueing two laminates together I had a 1 1/2" turning square. Further research into bamboo baseball bats revealed that the top-of-the-line baseball bats were cored. That fit my cue making philosophy perfectly because I full length core all my cues, usually with purple heart. The result is a unique cue that has the attributes of a cored bamboo baseball bat. These are strength with just the right amount of flex, the lovely feel and look of bamboo and the "hit" which can be described as "lively". Try one of my hybrid bamboo cues--you will not be disappointed".

I am building one for a customer now with a segmented bamboo handle.

Bob
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Last edited by QMAKER; 11-01-2015 at 06:12 PM.
  
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11-01-2015, 10:33 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by QMAKER View Post
I've made several cues with laminated and cored bamboo handles. The owners felt like they played exceptionally nice. I have an article on my website about the attributes of bamboo. Here is a transcript of the article:
"A few words about bamboo: I have long been interested in bamboo as a material to use in cues since my frequent trips to Asia showed me the strength of bamboo used for scaffolding in buildings that were 30 stories and more high. My interest peaked when my grand sons told me they were now using bamboo to make baseball bats. Evidently the ball just flies off the bat, much like it does with aluminum bats. Further research revealed that bamboo has a tensile strength of 28,000 pound per square inch as compared to steel at 23,000 psi. Those figures are for raw bamboo, not laminated which increases the tensile strength many fold. The best bamboo to use for baseball bats (and pool cues) is called "Tonkin" which comes from Guangdong Providence in China. This is the same species that is used to make flyrods. I was fortunate enough to find a company that made laminates from Tonkin in a 3/4" thickness. By glueing two laminates together I had a 1 1/2" turning square. Further research into bamboo baseball bats revealed that the top-of-the-line baseball bats were cored. That fit my cue making philosophy perfectly because I full length core all my cues, usually with purple heart. The result is a unique cue that has the attributes of a cored bamboo baseball bat. These are strength with just the right amount of flex, the lovely feel and look of bamboo and the "hit" which can be described as "lively". Try one of my hybrid bamboo cues--you will not be disappointed".

I am building one for a customer now with a segmented bamboo handle.

Bob
The top contribution to the playing of a cue is the shaft as far as wood goes. Have you used this laminated bamboo for shafts yet?
  
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11-02-2015, 08:29 AM

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Originally Posted by cueman View Post
The top contribution to the playing of a cue is the shaft as far as wood goes. Have you used this laminated bamboo for shafts yet?
I agree with the shaft being a major contributor to the playing uniqueness of the cue. However, over the years I have began to think that the butt has more to do with it than
we had given it credit for in the past. With all due respect being given to the shaft the butt plays a significant part in the equation. When your trying to get that last 5, 10 or 15%
more of performance out of the cue there is not much "tweaking: left to be done with the shaft but the butt opens up a whole new frontier with wood combinations, pin materials,
joint materials and construction methods. Just my thoughts on the subject,

I played around with it several years ago with bamboo shafts but when you get down to 13mm it looses its stiffness and gets to whippy. In order to get the most out of it it needs to be in compression. That is trapped between a solid forearm and a threaded but cap and sleeve. People like it for a handle sleeve when coupled with BRW, BKW, PH and Walnut which it what I have used it with. I might try it with a cored forearm/butt sleeve in the future.


************************************************** **********************************
"Do yourself a Favor and BUY a BREAK CUE from Bob Flynn
at DENALI" Samsarakid24

"Best breaker on the planet", Henchmen 3

" Denali made by Bob Flynn. The best $700 I ever spent on a cue", POCONO



Bob Flynn/Denali Pool Cues
[url]www.denalicues.com
denalicues@ca.rr.com
626-705-0340 cell/text

Last edited by QMAKER; 11-02-2015 at 08:48 AM.
  
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