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GaryB
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11-04-2015, 02:00 AM

I guarantee you that Joey is not getting up off any of his Pernambuco. I have begged, cried and everything else I can dream up only to be ignored. He treats each piece as if it was gold bullion. Oh well, thankfully he has a lot of other beautiful woods.
  
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11-04-2015, 08:53 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cueman View Post
If red oak plays good for shaft wood, it would still fall short in the smoothness category.
I seal mine with thin super glue until nice and smooth and finish off with shaft sealer. Comes out like glass.


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11-04-2015, 08:57 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Barringer View Post
Who said it was wood? It is grass and unstable as well as being difficult to use. But hey, I'm satisfied with the 100 of so hardwoods out there that I don't need to go looking for trouble.
It is NOT unstable and works like any wood. I have made a 1/2 dozen cues with it and get very positive feedback. Like all my handle wood I core with PH.


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11-04-2015, 10:04 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by QMAKER View Post
It is NOT unstable and works like any wood. I have made a 1/2 dozen cues with it and get very positive feedback. Like all my handle wood I core with PH.
OK, whatever you say.
  
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11-04-2015, 10:33 AM

Bocote has my vote.
  
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03-31-2016, 09:25 AM

How does cocobolo play? Fairly firm?
  
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04-01-2016, 04:18 PM

Anyone? Did I ask a stupid question?
  
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04-02-2016, 06:02 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Barringer View Post
This thread poses a very interesting question. Since we need more components than just wood to feel "playability", one then has to ask: what combination produces the best "playability"? Of course we have to also discuss who's playability because my "playability" is much different than your "playability" which is different than Hightower's "playability" or the next guys "playability".

Granted maple has been used for over a century and in many opinions produces the 'best' hitting cue. I think that's a stretch. Then, please define "best". I think it's the 'best' solely because it's the most available and the least expensive. But let us not discuss that statement and focus more upon the question of the thread.

Let's take a maple forearm with a maple handle joined with a steel connecting pin, stainless 3/8-10 joint pin, black phenolic collar and a maple shaft.

Let's also take a ebony forearm with a maple handle joined with a G10 connecting pin, ivory joint, G10 joint pin and a maple shaft.

How about a cocobolo with various combinations of the above. How about Bloodwood or other woods with various combinations. Would any of those create better "playability"?

And while we're at it let's take a maple forearm cored with .750 purpleheart and a cored maple handle with a .750 maple core with a G10 connecting pin, black phenolic collar and a stainless joint pin and maple shaft.

Let's also try out a Ebony forearm cored with a .750 maple core, and maple handle cored with purpleheart connected with a aluminum connecting pin, stag collar, 5/16-14 pin and maple shaft.

How about Ebony forearm cored with a .750 maple core, and maple handle cored with purpleheart connected with a titanium connecting pin, ivory collar, 5/16-14 pin and maple shaft.

And while we're at it let's take a maple forearm cored with .625 purpleheart and a cored maple handle with a .625 maple core with a G10 connecting pin, black phenolic collar and a stainless joint pin and maple shaft.

Let's take a maple forearm with a maple handle joined with a G10 connecting pin, stainless 5/16-18 joint pin, black phenolic collar and a maple shaft.

In fact, let's add 100 more combinations and then answer the question, which wood produces the best "playability"? You can probably make a balsa wood forearm, connect it with more favorable components and make the cue have better "playability" than the plain maple with a phenolic collar or should it be an ivory collar or should it be a stag collar or maybe a impregnated cocobolo collar. But to do that you'd have to test all those combinations with various other combinations and in the hands of myself, Hightower, Charlie, Fred, Sam and Pete. With so many possible combinations and so many different human beings, there can never be a definitive answer.

So why the heck did I type all this up? Because I'm amazed how a topic which can never have a definitive answer gets tossed around for days. There is no definitive answer to this age old question. Personally, it's an exercise in futility better known as mental masturbation.

And that's my 2.

And BTW... maple form Northern New York will be different from maple in Wisconsin and maple in Maine or the upper peninsula of Michigan. Exactly what maple are you using to make the comparison? :-) It could go on for a month.


This post is out of line. IMO

The original poster asked about woods! We all have used house cues and sneaky Pete's.
All things the same, I grab the ebony and Brazilian rosewood house cues or sneaky Pete's before all others. I like east Indian rosewood equally as well!

This above is my full splice opinion on woods.

Regarding traditional construction, I despise maple handles that are "light", it mess up the balance! IMO

I like ebony and east Indian rosewood fronts and traditional maple only! Other woods are oily or too light or don't have the resonance qualities that work well with maple shafts! IMO

My answer to this question is ebony, east Indian rosewood and maple.

I would also focus on balance point and stay away from steel joints that disrupts the resonance of each ball strike.

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Last edited by Kid Dynomite; 04-02-2016 at 07:47 AM.
  
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04-02-2016, 04:38 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwing4114 View Post
Do you find the cue spins more or hits straighter on your Mac forearm cues compared to the maple forearm?

Rhino - that is the set up I was looking at it re assuring to hear that it plays good. Cored all the way through?
I would be satisfied with a cored front.
  
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06-28-2016, 05:25 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe barringer View Post
this thread poses a very interesting question. Since we need more components than just wood to feel "playability", one then has to ask: What combination produces the best "playability"? Of course we have to also discuss who's playability because my "playability" is much different than your "playability" which is different than hightower's "playability" or the next guys "playability".

Granted maple has been used for over a century and in many opinions produces the 'best' hitting cue. I think that's a stretch. Then, please define "best". I think it's the 'best' solely because it's the most available and the least expensive. But let us not discuss that statement and focus more upon the question of the thread.

Let's take a maple forearm with a maple handle joined with a steel connecting pin, stainless 3/8-10 joint pin, black phenolic collar and a maple shaft.

Let's also take a ebony forearm with a maple handle joined with a g10 connecting pin, ivory joint, g10 joint pin and a maple shaft.

How about a cocobolo with various combinations of the above. How about bloodwood or other woods with various combinations. Would any of those create better "playability"?

And while we're at it let's take a maple forearm cored with .750 purpleheart and a cored maple handle with a .750 maple core with a g10 connecting pin, black phenolic collar and a stainless joint pin and maple shaft.

Let's also try out a ebony forearm cored with a .750 maple core, and maple handle cored with purpleheart connected with a aluminum connecting pin, stag collar, 5/16-14 pin and maple shaft.

How about ebony forearm cored with a .750 maple core, and maple handle cored with purpleheart connected with a titanium connecting pin, ivory collar, 5/16-14 pin and maple shaft.

And while we're at it let's take a maple forearm cored with .625 purpleheart and a cored maple handle with a .625 maple core with a g10 connecting pin, black phenolic collar and a stainless joint pin and maple shaft.

Let's take a maple forearm with a maple handle joined with a g10 connecting pin, stainless 5/16-18 joint pin, black phenolic collar and a maple shaft.

In fact, let's add 100 more combinations and then answer the question, which wood produces the best "playability"? You can probably make a balsa wood forearm, connect it with more favorable components and make the cue have better "playability" than the plain maple with a phenolic collar or should it be an ivory collar or should it be a stag collar or maybe a impregnated cocobolo collar. But to do that you'd have to test all those combinations with various other combinations and in the hands of myself, hightower, charlie, fred, sam and pete. With so many possible combinations and so many different human beings, there can never be a definitive answer.

So why the heck did i type all this up? Because i'm amazed how a topic which can never have a definitive answer gets tossed around for days. There is no definitive answer to this age old question. Personally, it's an exercise in futility better known as mental masturbation.

And that's my 2.

And btw... Maple form northern new york will be different from maple in wisconsin and maple in maine or the upper peninsula of michigan. Exactly what maple are you using to make the comparison? :-) it could go on for a month.


^^^^ what he said ^^^^ !!!
  
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10-08-2019, 01:37 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cueman View Post
Maple is not a tone wood like Ebony and has a duller sound, but has a much more lively hit. Do these cues have stainless joints? Do you feel the sound of the cue makes it play better? I have built many Ebony forearm cues and they do not move the cue ball as easily as Maple except on follow shots. They also cause more misses when applying English.
That is really interesting.
  
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