I still don't...

Billiard Architect

Billiard Architect

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Showing off... Here is what heaven looks like! My first Dufferin conversion. Cut down and took the finish off.

Oh and to that shop teacher that yelled at me on the first day of shop class. "F U! No that lathe was not mine! I now own my own and YES I still don't know what I am doing!"

Message_1592066573969.jpg
20200613_132713.jpg
20200613_140032.jpg
 
triley41395

triley41395

You'll shoot your eye out
Silver Member
Make sure you post a few pics. as you continue and when complete. Looks great so far.
 
TATE

TATE

AzB Gold Mensch
Silver Member
Wow, that's a pretty heavy duty lathe. Cool project.

In a future restoration, I would also consider stripping the finish chemically first, to preserve as much cue as possible, although I would certainly avoid the Dufferin logo.
 
Last edited:
ideologist

ideologist

I don't never exaggerate
Silver Member
TATE said:
Wow, that's a pretty heavy duty lathe. Cool project.

In a future restoration, I would also consider stripping the finish chemically first, to preserve as much cue as possible, although I would certainly avoid the Dufferin logo.
Click to expand...

The Dufferin cues are very thick, a stout taper. They will need a taper pass to be close to modern size
 
TATE

TATE

AzB Gold Mensch
Silver Member
ideologist said:
The Dufferin cues are very thick, a stout taper. They will need a taper pass to be close to modern size
Click to expand...

Yeah I meant for other kinds of cue restorations. A lot of cue refinishers just slap a cue on the lathe and start sanding away, without considering the possibility of chemically stripping followed by light sanding to retain the dimensions. Also, dings can be raised through heat/steam so the entire cue can retain the original surfaces.
 
Billiard Architect

Billiard Architect

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
TATE said:
Yeah I meant for other kinds of cue restorations. A lot of cue refinishers just slap a cue on the lathe and start sanding away, without considering the possibility of chemically stripping followed by light sanding to retain the dimensions. Also, dings can be raised through heat/steam so the entire cue can retain the original surfaces.
Click to expand...

This one had a couple of minor dings I was able to raise with just wet sanding. It does have a surface crack. I will dimension it out next weekend and see where I am sitting. I am still waiting for my 5/16 14 tap. They sent the 7/16 14 but failed to ship the 5/16. :rolleyes: Hopefully soon.
 
Billiard Architect

Billiard Architect

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
ideologist said:
The Dufferin cues are very thick, a stout taper. They will need a taper pass to be close to modern size
Click to expand...

I am going to do my measurements next week after putting it through hell this weekend. See where I sit with my existing 5/16 14 shafts. This was more for getting joint practice. I have 3 Dufferins to play with. This is going to be my no frills butt. I may step up the next one with some round inlays for fun. Just learning for now. I do have a Titlist that I will be working up to. I will see how comfortable I am with it by the third Dufferin.
 
Billiard Architect

Billiard Architect

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
TATE said:
Wow, that's a pretty heavy duty lathe. Cool project.

In a future restoration, I would also consider stripping the finish chemically first, to preserve as much cue as possible, although I would certainly avoid the Dufferin logo.
Click to expand...

I thought of that. Just learning now what is possible. These cues I got from pool halls that had them sitting in the back room. Either got them for free or paid less than 5 bucks for them. Working my way up to my Titlist.
 
S

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I do have a Titlist that I will be working up to.
Click to expand...

When you go to refinish, try alcohol on it.
If that does not cut it, try lacquer thinner.
BBC used french polish (shellac) in early cues. It can be removed, or even renvated, with alcohol. The process is a little tough without experience because the alcohol evaporates so fast. But keeping it wet and using a nubby towel can make fast progress. Grey scotch brite with a rag over it, even faster but can catch & pull splinters.

LOL... We called him "Lefty"
Click to expand...

We had to call ours "Crafty". He wrote books on trowel trades, but his brother was already world famous as Lefty Kreh.

smt
 
pt109

pt109

WO double hemlock
Silver Member
Johnny "V" said:
I thought of that. Just learning now what is possible. These cues I got from pool halls that had them sitting in the back room. Either got them for free or paid less than 5 bucks for them. Working my way up to my Titlist.
Click to expand...

Keep your eye out for old Dufferins with Purple Heart or ebony butts...
...they made a fair amount...Dufferin bought exotic wood by the ship load,
...I even managed to get bocote and yellow heart on cues where I couldn’t have got the
the block of butt wood for that price.

Depending on the age, there will be three different thicknesses and qualities of finish...
...the oldest ones have very thick finish, then some months of bad ones that crack, then
the most have a good finish...some sort of high tech process.
 
DaveK

DaveK

Still crazy after all these years
Silver Member
jimmyco said:
Nice!

But I bet ol' Nine Fingers had your best interests in mind.
Click to expand...

A lot of metal shop folks won't allow wood on their lathes. I believe that sawdust is both abrasive and gets everywhere, so the issue is wear on the ways. (this assumes the shop was a metal shop of course :D)

Dave <-- turns wood on his 10 x 20 metal lathe whenever needed ... and cleans up all dust with a vacuum (never compressed air) when done
 
S

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Agree with Dave.

I've been to a number of foundry pattern shop auctions (& scads of machine shop auctions).

The metal working machinery in the woodworking pattern shops is always the most worn, rounded edges, sloppy ways, rocking spindles. Even machine dials gradually erased.

Re-scraped the ways on a number of my machines (made them like new geometry & accuracy), but am old enough will still use them sometimes for wood. With trepidation & a vacuum cleaner.

Sanding on lathes is about the worst. Just creating a constant lap out of the slides.
But what do you do if you want to make cues?
:)

smt
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top