Wtf?
You post some irrelevant shit about wax and boats and we let your ignorance slide...again.
Perhaps you are unable to follow, but here you go:
1. How do I get grimy shit off a cuetec?
B: Clorox wipes.
You- wax. Boat wax.
:slap:
Which Wax To Use on Shafts???
- Thread starter subdude1974
- Start date
Wtf?
You post some irrelevant shit about wax and boats and we let your ignorance slide...again.
Perhaps you are unable to follow, but here you go:
1. How do I get grimy shit off a cuetec?
B: Clorox wipes.
You- wax. Boat wax.
:slap:
My response about the boat was simply to answer you saying that wax is inappropriate for synthetic materials. Well, you were wrong and came with your usual smart-ass answer. So, just who's ignorant here?
The one who takes things out of context and then defends his position as relevant.
Before waxing, be sure the shaft is cleaned. "DENATURED" alcohol is your best friend. Gets all that blue chalk right off the shaft. I have some in a small spray bottle. Just spray some on a tissue and wipe down the shaft. Only takes about 1 minute.
Once the shaft is cleaned, apply wax, let dry and buff off.
There have been many suggestions for good cue wax already mentioned.
You don't need a lathe to clean a shaft.
Is the wax for "sealing" or just to be smooth (like Cue Silk)???
Wax will help seal the surface, but only for a short while if the shaft is being played with. The big benefit is how nice the cue glides through your fingers.
2 to 3 wax applications of Renaissance keeps the shaft feeling like satin between your fingers.
Just let the wax dry for 10-15 mins before removing with a soft cloth and rub briskly to remove.
The shaft will become more resistant to discoloring & dirt buildup & moisture from sweaty hands.
Just let the wax dry for 10-15 mins before removing with a soft cloth and rub briskly to remove.
The shaft will become more resistant to discoloring & dirt buildup & moisture from sweaty hands.
I use a polish designed for polyester finishes. It's an acrylic polymer, works great. If my cue shaft is dirty, I wash my hands, take the damp paper towel and run it over the cue and it brings it right back to where it was after just cleaning it.
I've used it for many years with no ill effects.
I've used it for many years with no ill effects.
DO NOT let Renaissance Wax dry for ANY length of time or even more than a few seconds before buffing. This is the recommendation by the manufacturer and eludes to that on the can itself stating it dries and becomes hard instantly.
Renaissance Wax bonds and builds up on porous surfaces so you definitely do not want to let it sit for more than a few seconds before you buff it off.. Just use "long strokes and thin coats"
...You can repeat the process if you desire but leaving it sit on surfaces to "cake" is not recommended at all.
Renaissance Wax bonds and builds up on porous surfaces so you definitely do not want to let it sit for more than a few seconds before you buff it off.. Just use "long strokes and thin coats"
...You can repeat the process if you desire but leaving it sit on surfaces to "cake" is not recommended at all.
Hold On Now Just a Moment......Wax On & Wax Off
That is one man’s interpretation........the mfr info on the can and pamphlet state it dries instantly and also
mentions that repeated use of the wax adds to the luster and there’s no loss of clarity from repeated use.
There isn’t mention or inference that the wax needs to be removed promptly or allowing it to remain for a
longer period of time is any way harmful or otherwise deleterious to the wood in any way whatsoever. If
there were any risk of damage or improper use of the product Involved failing to quickly remove or buff the
wax after application, the manufacturer would have stated this lucidly on the label or instructions. So like
I earlier wrote, this was one man’s interpretation but I have 16 cue shafts that testify to what I explained, in
addition to what Renaissance Wax actually states....but this my interpretation but it is bolstered by evidence.
That is one man’s interpretation........the mfr info on the can and pamphlet state it dries instantly and also
mentions that repeated use of the wax adds to the luster and there’s no loss of clarity from repeated use.
There isn’t mention or inference that the wax needs to be removed promptly or allowing it to remain for a
longer period of time is any way harmful or otherwise deleterious to the wood in any way whatsoever. If
there were any risk of damage or improper use of the product Involved failing to quickly remove or buff the
wax after application, the manufacturer would have stated this lucidly on the label or instructions. So like
I earlier wrote, this was one man’s interpretation but I have 16 cue shafts that testify to what I explained, in
addition to what Renaissance Wax actually states....but this my interpretation but it is bolstered by evidence.
My suggestions are derived from conversations with the manufacturer's US distributer AND experience using the product... How you interpret is irrelevant AND misinformed and may mislead others who'd like to use the product for the best results.
It is not a question of interpretation........if the mfr was concerned about the length of time that Renaissance Wax stayed
on the surface of a piece of wood, furniture or even a pool cue shaft, the mfr would have disclosed or mentioned this fact.
The instructions are “silent” and omit any and all mention of that even being a consideration for proper use let alone any misuse.
The OP stated this was a recommendation from the mfr which is totally false and misleads the reader into thinking it was factual.
You can let the wax to stay on the shaft for awhile since if the mfr isn’t concerned when you do this, you shouldn’t be either.....Nuf Ced.
If there was any risk caused by from allowing Rennaisssance Wax to remain on the surface longer, the mfr would have spelled it out.
The good news is the feel of your cue shaft will improve regardless of which approach you decide to use when applying Renaissance Wax.
My experience & the condition of my cues’ shafts confirm allowing the wax sit for awhile has worked really well for me but it’s your choice.
on the surface of a piece of wood, furniture or even a pool cue shaft, the mfr would have disclosed or mentioned this fact.
The instructions are “silent” and omit any and all mention of that even being a consideration for proper use let alone any misuse.
The OP stated this was a recommendation from the mfr which is totally false and misleads the reader into thinking it was factual.
You can let the wax to stay on the shaft for awhile since if the mfr isn’t concerned when you do this, you shouldn’t be either.....Nuf Ced.
If there was any risk caused by from allowing Rennaisssance Wax to remain on the surface longer, the mfr would have spelled it out.
The good news is the feel of your cue shaft will improve regardless of which approach you decide to use when applying Renaissance Wax.
My experience & the condition of my cues’ shafts confirm allowing the wax sit for awhile has worked really well for me but it’s your choice.
Renaissance Wax..................
Home site if anyone wants to contact: https://picreator.co.uk/about-us/
Home site if anyone wants to contact: https://picreator.co.uk/about-us/
After cleaning, I seal a shaft with a sanding sealer (Rapid Pad by Mohawk Industries but there are many other good ones), then after fine sanding/burnishing, I use the carnuaba wax as the last step. Sure there are many ways to skin a cat lol...
SKINS Please send me a PM in regards to your cue rendering work. I am interested, but cannot send you a PM
cheap and expensive
The Butchers bowling alley wax is very good and cheap, a big tub will cost around ten to fifteen bucks down at the hardware store. I had to order some, took less than a week to come in. Enough wax to pass down to your children's children if you are just using it on cue sticks.
Renaissance Wax is one of the most expensive of the "cheap" waxes. Reading the information on it and Butchers reveals that they are pretty similar. It is going up rapidly in price with popularity. It's primary claim to fame is that museums and restorers like it.
It has been years and I have slept many times since then but I once researched waxes. Yikes! Some go for over a hundred dollars an ounce!
Tip chalk is abrasive and slow motion or stop motion video reveals a huge cloud of it every time a ball is hit with a freshly chalked tip. Getting all of this grit on your cue shaft is going to require regular attention to the shaft if you are really finicky. Butchers took care of my cues and everything else around the place, still looks likely to outlast me, if I ever find it after the hurricane washed me away. I still have it, the mystery is where!
One warning about bowling alley waxes, lanes are waxed with a slippery wax and one that grabs down towards the pins. got to know which is which!
Hu
The Butchers bowling alley wax is very good and cheap, a big tub will cost around ten to fifteen bucks down at the hardware store. I had to order some, took less than a week to come in. Enough wax to pass down to your children's children if you are just using it on cue sticks.
Renaissance Wax is one of the most expensive of the "cheap" waxes. Reading the information on it and Butchers reveals that they are pretty similar. It is going up rapidly in price with popularity. It's primary claim to fame is that museums and restorers like it.
It has been years and I have slept many times since then but I once researched waxes. Yikes! Some go for over a hundred dollars an ounce!
Tip chalk is abrasive and slow motion or stop motion video reveals a huge cloud of it every time a ball is hit with a freshly chalked tip. Getting all of this grit on your cue shaft is going to require regular attention to the shaft if you are really finicky. Butchers took care of my cues and everything else around the place, still looks likely to outlast me, if I ever find it after the hurricane washed me away. I still have it, the mystery is where!
One warning about bowling alley waxes, lanes are waxed with a slippery wax and one that grabs down towards the pins. got to know which is which!
Hu
Rest assured, I will be sure to do that and it’s done without your permission or approval.
Meanwhile, everyone can just read the label & do what they want but leaving it on is okay.
Meanwhile, everyone can just read the label & do what they want but leaving it on is okay.
DO NOT let Renaissance Wax dry for ANY length of time or even more than a few seconds before buffing. This is the recommendation by the manufacturer and eludes to that on the can itself stating it dries and becomes hard instantly.
Renaissance Wax bonds and builds up on porous surfaces so you definitely do not want to let it sit for more than a few seconds before you buff it off.. Just use "long strokes and thin coats"
I could not agree more!! I used Renaissance wax on a new dining room table and treated it like Johnson’s Paste Wax. What a mistake! Mineral spirits and elbow grease to remove it. Actually thought I damaged the wood. Please follow instructions on label for that product.
Good Stuff