I usually just use epoxy but maybe some of the more experienced crowd can tell me. Can you spray automotive clear over deft sanding sealer in place of an epoxy....I know the sanding sealer is a laquer so.......anyone
Clear Coating over sanding sealer??
- Thread starter ComptonCustomCues
- Start date
Hi,
I am sure you can but their may be fisheyes in your finish result. Epoxy being an adhesive will give you a much better seal bond as a substrate for your clear coat. I use 3 coats of G5 applied 3 minutes apart for a monolithic coating and even then I can get the clear coat to suck in in a tiny area from time to time after sanding flat and smooth. When this happens I just sand the little area and touch some clear to the spot with a tooth pick, then let cure before wet sanding.
Deft generally makes the wood darken or tint as a sanding sealer. I use it or shellac on some woods and when the darker tint appearance is about 90 % sanded off, I start sanding using 100 psi air with light vertical strokes especially around the veneers or wood inlays. The tints is a tell tale for your prep sand. When the tint or Deft overburden sands off there is still surface penetration but you have to be very careful with the light sanding strokes with air to prevent bleeding in the delicate areas.
Do a test piece and let everyone know your out come.
Good Luck.
Rick Geschrey
I am sure you can but their may be fisheyes in your finish result. Epoxy being an adhesive will give you a much better seal bond as a substrate for your clear coat. I use 3 coats of G5 applied 3 minutes apart for a monolithic coating and even then I can get the clear coat to suck in in a tiny area from time to time after sanding flat and smooth. When this happens I just sand the little area and touch some clear to the spot with a tooth pick, then let cure before wet sanding.
Deft generally makes the wood darken or tint as a sanding sealer. I use it or shellac on some woods and when the darker tint appearance is about 90 % sanded off, I start sanding using 100 psi air with light vertical strokes especially around the veneers or wood inlays. The tints is a tell tale for your prep sand. When the tint or Deft overburden sands off there is still surface penetration but you have to be very careful with the light sanding strokes with air to prevent bleeding in the delicate areas.
Do a test piece and let everyone know your out come.
Good Luck.
Rick Geschrey
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I really hate useing epoxy...lol...I have used ca with good results. I'm kind of wondering if the deft would take an effect in the long run even if the clear turns out good. 5 to 10 years down the road the clear might not be as solid as it would with epoxy. I think I will have to try it on a test cue and then play with it for awhile....really abuse it to see the results.
You shouldn't
I usually just use epoxy but maybe some of the more experienced crowd can tell me. Can you spray automotive clear over deft sanding sealer in place of an epoxy....I know the sanding sealer is a laquer so.......anyone
I don't see why not, I like lacquer. I would test it on a piece of scrap first so see what kind of color tone you get. It tends to darken the wood a little. What I like about lacquer is some of the new finishes are so clear that over many woods the wood looks like plastic or something. I like wood that has some tone to it sort of what you are used to seeing in older finishes. It also brings out all the character of many woods like BEM and woods with a lot of figure. They take on a look or being three dimensional and have depth. But always test on scrap to be sure you like what you see.
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I don't believe that anyone can build a cue which will withstand abuse.
I don't think car finish adheres to lacquer nearly as well as it adheres to epoxy or bare non-acidic wood.
Car finishes are volatile. It might eat through that lacquer.
I could be wrong.
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Hi,
That's what stain is for.
When you bang the cue with the lacquer as the base under the clear coat, I think it will dent a lot easier and deeper than multi coats of epoxy which has a higher ductility and tensile strength than the wood itself per unit volume. The epoxy is like case harding the wood. The lacquer is gonna be pretty whimpy, JMO.
Rick Geschrey
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When I made my other comment I was not really thinking. I was referring to the use of padding lacquer to enhance and bring out the beauty of the wood, not something you would buy in a spray can at Home Depot. I am sorry I was on the way out and made my comment to quickly.
deft sanding sealer is what I use. But I think I'll try it on a cue then test it for awhile. In the meantime I'll keep useing epoxy
:clapping:
ah yes, remember weedhopper,
"if it aint broke, don't fix it" :thumbup:
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It should be fine but the epoxy will fill the pores much better, thus using less clearcoat.
As a side note, I do not like using CA as a base coat when using an auto clearcoat. It is too hard and the clearcoat doesn't get a good bite. I've seen some where the bond was so weak I could blow the clearcoat off with an air hose.
As a side note, I do not like using CA as a base coat when using an auto clearcoat. It is too hard and the clearcoat doesn't get a good bite. I've seen some where the bond was so weak I could blow the clearcoat off with an air hose.
hdgis1
New member
I usually just use epoxy but maybe some of the more experienced crowd can tell me. Can you spray automotive clear over deft sanding sealer in place of an epoxy....I know the sanding sealer is a laquer so.......anyone
John - Nice meeting you tonight at Woodcraft. Are you using adhesive style epoxy or a product like MirrorCOat for your finish? You might try West Systems ClearCoat as a sealer/
Chris
It was nice to meet you as well. I have switched to west system epoxy sealer with nason clear. It is the nuts. I couldn't stand paying the kind of prices for west system till I tried it. Great stuff