Tighter pockets
- Thread starter Sedog
- Start date
That cheap? I'm basically saying that it would be nice to have more than 3 reputable table mechanics around the US. I do all the table work I can on my personal table and that's because I can't afford labor costs. I wish I could pay glen or mark for their services because they are true experts in their profession and their work is truly amazing. My work will never ever come close to theirs and I accept that. I still enjoy my table because I love pool and happy just to be able to play.
Total for me to Fed Ex rails from Wi to Ohio was $160.00 total round trip, I could not drive them there for that. I made small wooden crates lined with insulation (styrofoam) to ship my Gold Crown rails, 2 boxes, 3 rails per crate. That included insurance for $5k
Wait a minute, you mean I can actually try to hit the center of my pocket pretending like my pockets were less than 4 1/2"????:rotflmao1::rotflmao1::rotflmao1:
It is just not easy for some people to think logically is it??
I guess I'm all alone in saying that although not ideal -- I don't mind playing on shimmed pockets. Guys played on shimmed tables for years before extending the subrails became all the rage. I've played on tables that had shims stacked on top of each other and that's obviously not ideal but you can get just about any table down to 4.5" corners by just using a thicker facing.
If you want to go the economical route just try the thickest facing you can find. Even a properly -- subrail extended Diamond will have fairly large facings put on them.
If you want to go the economical route just try the thickest facing you can find. Even a properly -- subrail extended Diamond will have fairly large facings put on them.
If your playing 1P those shimmed pockets play like shit, you can't bank off them. Makes a huge difference. Also you play more banks with tighter pockets
I had one shimmed. My triple shimmed Olhausen was still 4 3/4 LOL. Those things were buckets!
Imagine my surprise when I had Ernesto take it down to 4" about 10 years ago - I wanted to quit the game at first. Instead of shooting in the general direction of the pocket, it took a while for me to realize you actually had to aim if you wanted to make a ball!
Once you get used to a table done this way, when you go back to playing on shims you see a huge difference.
I recently bought an older Gold Crown. The table is st least 50 years old and had original rubber that didn't seem too bad but had pretty big 5" pockets.
I too wanted tighter pockets and went back and forth in my mind trying to decide how to go about it. Stay with the old rubber and just shim (cheapest, not best), change the rubber and shim (a half measure in my mind, more expensive but still not good) or just pony up and get it done right the first time. I wanted 4.5" pockets and I want the table to play very well. I don't need a table to help me rattle balls.
Getting the rails done correctly is pricey but I've paid more for a cue so why cheap out on the table? I sent them to Mark Gregory about a week ago. When the table goes back together it will be done right and I'll have years of enjoyment on a challenging but fair table.
I too wanted tighter pockets and went back and forth in my mind trying to decide how to go about it. Stay with the old rubber and just shim (cheapest, not best), change the rubber and shim (a half measure in my mind, more expensive but still not good) or just pony up and get it done right the first time. I wanted 4.5" pockets and I want the table to play very well. I don't need a table to help me rattle balls.
Getting the rails done correctly is pricey but I've paid more for a cue so why cheap out on the table? I sent them to Mark Gregory about a week ago. When the table goes back together it will be done right and I'll have years of enjoyment on a challenging but fair table.
Rookie....
Stop mocking me and get back on THE TABLE 4 1/8 or 5' do it!!!!:thumbup:
But a shite attitude (he does make a decent g&t though)
Eassssssssy Captain !!!
After reading through this thread I have a question.
Whats the difference between shims and pocket facings?
r/DCP
Whats the difference between shims and pocket facings?
r/DCP
Nothing. They are the same thing.
When you stack pocket facings on top of each other to change the pocket opening it is called shimming, and most folks say it is done with shims, even though you are using pocket facings.
Confusing isn't it.
When you stack pocket facings on top of each other to change the pocket opening it is called shimming, and most folks say it is done with shims, even though you are using pocket facings.
Confusing isn't it.
They're the same thing, when someone refers to pockets being triple shimmer, that just means 3 facings have been inserted on both sides of the corner pockets. Sub rail extensions is just exactly what it implies....extending the sub rail with the same type material the sub rail is made from....wood, in which after having done so there's one ONE facing material applied to the end of the rail.....one facing not thicker than 1/4"
Beat me to it buddy:thumbup:
I had a sub - rail extension done on my GC IV. The corners are 4 - 3/8. I love 'em - although I sometimes think MAYBE I should have made them 4 - 1/2. I KNOW I'd not be a happy camper if they were 4 - 1/4!
But here's the real question for you, did you have the inconsistent pocket miter angles corrected when you had that done or did you just extend the angles that were already cut to begin with?
RKC,,,,you really need to make sets of these and sell them to billiard mechanics.....
...4.5 inch corners and appropriate side dimensions.
To be world legal at snooker, this template has to fit....
This was an eye opening when RKC redid my table. Every pocket was different which is why the pockets played inconsistently and this was the work done by Brunswick at the factory.
So much for qc by Brunswick.
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