Properly "Diamondizing" my Brunswick Ventura

stix_n_stones

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Properly "Diamondizing" my Brunswick Ventura ***Completed with pics***

First off I want to thank all of the knowledgeable mechanics that post in this forum. I have learned a ton of valuable info reading through all of this, I only wish I had found it a long time ago.

OK, my situation is this. I own a Brunswick Ventura 9' table purchased new in 2001. I am going to tackle a subrail extension to tighten up the pockets and have a couple of questions I'm hoping to have answered by Glen (RKC) or one of the other guru's here.

First off my corner pockets now measure 5-1/4" point to point at the front of the pocket facing and 4-1/4" point to point at the back of pocket facing (deeper in the pocket). When I am finished I would like 4-1/2" corner pockets and 5" sides. If I extend the subrail using the factory subrail angle I will end up with 4-1/2" at front and 3-1/2" at the rear which seems really small. I'm thinking I should probably change the subrail angle but need some advice on what that should be to still have the table play great. Reading one of RKC's previous posts 141 degrees was used on a GC3, I'm not sure if that angle would work for me too?

Second, much easier question. Are my rails the k-55 profile? I would like to know prior to taking the rail apart so I can order the material ahead of time and not be without a table for too long:)

Last, is contacting Brian at Diamond still the best way to get my hands on Artemis cushions and 3/16" neoprene facings?

If there is any further information required to properly answer these questions just let me know. Thanks for all your help!
Steve
 
Last edited:

stix_n_stones

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I measured my current subrail corner pocket angle to be 145 degrees if this helps answer my previous question.
 

TableTek

New member
Silver Member
Ventura table

I recently acquired a Ventura that is in excellent condition with one problem. The frame sides took moisture damage and are slightly twisted outward, thus the legs are "bow legged". I will be making a new thread for this, so let me know if you have seen any other repairs for this. Also, I have a second set of Ventura rails that might be of use if you want to get a set with subrail extensions with the option of going back if you prefer the buckets. Let me know if I can be of use.
Rob
215-622-8899
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
First off I want to thank all of the knowledgeable mechanics that post in this forum. I have learned a ton of valuable info reading through all of this, I only wish I had found it a long time ago.

OK, my situation is this. I own a Brunswick Ventura 9' table purchased new in 2001. I am going to tackle a subrail extension to tighten up the pockets and have a couple of questions I'm hoping to have answered by Glen (RKC) or one of the other guru's here.

First off my corner pockets now measure 5-1/4" point to point at the front of the pocket facing and 4-1/4" point to point at the back of pocket facing (deeper in the pocket). When I am finished I would like 4-1/2" corner pockets and 5" sides. If I extend the subrail using the factory subrail angle I will end up with 4-1/2" at front and 3-1/2" at the rear which seems really small. I'm thinking I should probably change the subrail angle but need some advice on what that should be to still have the table play great. Reading one of RKC's previous posts 141 degrees was used on a GC3, I'm not sure if that angle would work for me too?

Second, much easier question. Are my rails the k-55 profile? I would like to know prior to taking the rail apart so I can order the material ahead of time and not be without a table for too long:)

Last, is contacting Brian at Diamond still the best way to get my hands on Artemis cushions and 3/16" neoprene facings?

If there is any further information required to properly answer these questions just let me know. Thanks for all your help!
Steve

The 141 degree angle helps to deflect the object balls deeper into the back of the pocket, therefore cutting down the pocket rejections. The wider the angle, the more the rejects, the closer to parallel, the easier the pockets, so 141 degrees is about as perfect as you can get without going to easy, or to hard:grin:

Glen
 

stix_n_stones

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Subrail extension completed (with pics)

Well, my subrail extension is complete. Thanks to those who gave me advice and made previous posts to help me along with the process. I have never done any kind of work on a table before this and am really happy with the results. My table now plays so good with the buckets gone and proper pocket dimensions. Those of you considering doing this yourself. It is a lot of work but if you are patient and have some decent woodworking skills it is definitely possible. It probably took me ten times longer than it would a mechanic but is very rewarding when completed properly.

Before:
Before.jpg


Subrail extended:
Subrail.jpg


Facing attached (Side pocket)
FacingSide.jpg


Facing attached (Corner pocket)
FacingCorner.jpg


After:
After.jpg
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Well, my subrail extension is complete. Thanks to those who gave me advice and made previous posts to help me along with the process. I have never done any kind of work on a table before this and am really happy with the results. My table now plays so good with the buckets gone and proper pocket dimensions. Those of you considering doing this yourself. It is a lot of work but if you are patient and have some decent woodworking skills it is definitely possible. It probably took me ten times longer than it would a mechanic but is very rewarding when completed properly.

Before:
Before.jpg


Subrail extended:
Subrail.jpg


Facing attached (Side pocket)
FacingSide.jpg


Facing attached (Corner pocket)
FacingCorner.jpg


After:
After.jpg

That's what learning from others is all about:grin:
 

rjtcobra

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Well, my subrail extension is complete. Thanks to those who gave me advice and made previous posts to help me along with the process. I have never done any kind of work on a table before this and am really happy with the results. My table now plays so good with the buckets gone and proper pocket dimensions. Those of you considering doing this yourself. It is a lot of work but if you are patient and have some decent woodworking skills it is definitely possible. It probably took me ten times longer than it would a mechanic but is very rewarding when completed properly.

Before:
Before.jpg


Subrail extended:
Subrail.jpg


Facing attached (Side pocket)
FacingSide.jpg


Facing attached (Corner pocket)
FacingCorner.jpg


After:
After.jpg

Looks great, what size corner and sides did you end up with, and at what angle? Also, what cloth did you use? I've got RKC coming to the house in about 3 weeks to do the same, making my Ashbee 9 footer to the Brunswick Gold Crown V Tournament edition rails. Can't wait!

Thanks,
Ryan
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
Josh at Club Billiards did all the work on my GCI, turned out fantastic.



(club billiards) Dayton - Josh Ebert 937-609-2049 (References & Pictures)
 
Top