Sanding Arbors

Russell Cues

Russell Cues

Maverick Cue Builder
Silver Member
whammo57 said:
A sanding mandrel??? If you can't cut you shafts and butts to size, there is something wrong with you, your methods, or your tooling. Some CB's cut to .840 + or - a few thou. Whatever you like.



How about a "finish mandrel" for $3.....

I made my own because I just dont want to spend several hundred dollars for a carbide sanding mandrel. (not because I don't like them... I am just cheap)

Go to Lowes hardware department and look in the drawers that hold hardware special items. Buy a steel spacer that is 1in OD and 3/4 in ID and 2 inches long. Price... $1.51

Go on Ebay and buy a 1in delrin rod 1 foot long. Price... about $10

Turn about 2 1/2 inches of the delrin to about .750in. Keep trying to put the spacer on the delrin. When it will just go on about 1/2in but sticks, put it on the floor and hammer the delrin fully into the spacer. It must be tight and forget about gluing it.... not much sticks to delrin. Cut the delrin off and put the spacer in the lathe and face off both ends.



Put the delrin/steel spacer in the lathe and turn about 1in of the OD to .850in (or what ever size your finish joint is). YOU WILL NEED CARBIDE TOOLS. HSS will not cut it. I turned it in my Hightower lathe. I could take only .005in or less per cut.

When you have it turned to the right size and BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OUT OF THE CHUCK, drill and tap the delrin center for a pin just like a cue butt. I use 5/16-18 but use any size you like.

When you have a cue butt or shaft cut and sanded to size, put on the finish mandrel and build you finish to larger than the mandrel and sand it down to size.

It works for a butt like it is and will work for a shaft if you screw a short pin into it.

OK.... for the nay sayers....

Is it pretty? No its crude and ugly.

Does it work? You bet your ass it works for about $3.

Is it accurate? Not as accurate as a precision ground carbide sanding mandrel but it doesn't cost $400 either.

How long will it last? I don't know.... maybe 20-30 cues.. try not to sand on it very much and it will last longer. I slice most of the finish off with a razor blade. When it wears out, I will spend another $3 and spend 1/2 hour making another one.

Because the delrin center is somewhat flexible, you probably should not use it for machining butts or shafts.

Kim
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!!!!!! Really!!!!!!!! I can respect someone being inovative I have had to be along the way but, to say there must be something wrong with someones cutting methods, or they cant cut a shaft to size is narrow. Very narrow. I have cut shafts within 5 thousands of finish and sanded, they dont line up the same as using a precision carbide sanding mandrel !! I can respect that not everyone can just fork over $400 or so for a set but it should be something to work towards, to improve, to stay the same level doesn't bring improvement.

Once you do decide to get a set of carbide sanding mandrels, and you see just how well your joints and shafts line up, then come talk about the homemade jig.
 
Blue Hog ridr

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
You newbys have no clue how lucky you are to have Prather, Atlas, Brianna and other such places to purchase cue specific tooling! There weren't any books or DVD's telling you how to build a cue back then either!
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Actually Sherm, you have no idea how many times I've considered this and counted my blessings for exactly that and all the posts in this forum.

I know sometimes it seems like a thankless job, helping others.
I believe thats why when you ask a question and someone with more experience helps you out, that its imperative that the OP openly express their gratitude. I think most people are pretty respectful but sometimes people forget to say those two words. Thank you!
 
macguy

macguy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
whammo57 said:
Arnot,

Well thanks for the bashing....it doesn't look good on you.... I expected better....

I assure you that the joint is perfect when I finish it.... and I use the best materials and methods. I build a solid cue that hits and plays well. Granted I am not up to your artistic standards but you don't need to belittle me. You don't need to discredit me just because I use a cheap sanding mandrel.

Kim
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Nothing wrong with what you made but they will change in size with use. You will have to keep replacing them. That is the reason for carbide
 
will8834

will8834

Adcock Cues
Silver Member
I used the steel for several years and they worked ok, but had to be replaced alot. We have the option of buying the carbide ones for $220. At this price point it is hard not to change to carbide.
 
scdiveteam

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
Blue Hog ridr said:
Actually Sherm, you have no idea how many times I've considered this and counted my blessings for exactly that and all the posts in this forum.

I know sometimes it seems like a thankless job, helping others.
I believe thats why when you ask a question and someone with more experience helps you out, that its imperative that the OP openly express their gratitude. I think most people are pretty respectful but sometimes people forget to say those two words. Thank you!
Click to expand...


Hi,

"The game is the same, the players are new".

It never hurts to share experience because it is reciprocal.

I agree, "Thank You" is common courtesy and goes a long way, besides you may make a friend or two along the way.

Rick Geschrey
 
F

fugdbdt

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
will8834 said:
I used the steel for several years and they worked ok, but had to be replaced alot. We have the option of buying the carbide ones for $220. At this price point it is hard not to change to carbide.
Click to expand...



Off the shelf... is there actually any difference between the accuracy of the carbide vs the stainless ones? Also has anyone ever had your mandrels case hardened? Although stainless isnt one of the best materials to case harden, it's been done. It actually only hardens about .010 deep but it sure makes a difference. When i get a part back, it allways has a piece of bailing wire attached ... probably to hang it with. And that piece of wire is as hard as a drill bit. Im sure this has allready been tried by someone. But if not, it will only cost me about $20 bucks to try.
 
M

masonh

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Off the shelf... is there actually any difference between the accuracy of the carbide vs the stainless ones?
Click to expand...


there shouldn't be.made by the same person,they should be the same.the tool steel wears faster but it's still imperceptible with the amount of cues i make.between Alex and myself,we made 60 cues or so last year and ours didn't get any smaller.

i might go for the carbide if they were only $200 as i think that is about what they are worth tops.i just can't force myself to pay the $400+ that seems to be the going rate.

if i was using a pole sander for the final sand and making lots of cues and making them all the same diameter then yes i would spring for it,but i don't and i won't.

i also like to make my real heavy,strong,dense forearms at about .820" and the maple or weaker woods up to .835" so i would need too many sets of them anyway.

for the finish work i really don't see the tool steel wearing down ever.i start with 1200 grit and i just don't see it affecting the diameter of the steel.
 
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