Solarez Problem

JC

JC

Coos Cues
So I decided to give Solarez another look and broke out the lamp and the resin.

I thought everything was going great. Looked promising. layed it on top of zinsner shellac sanding sealer. After I went through all the grits and polished it the result was absolutely gorgeous. Until I noticed some little tiny pin holes here and there. Stood out now because they are full of polish compound. Not a lot but of course one is way too many. They really stand out against black.

Should I be sanding between coats? Could it be because the product is old? Been sitting here a couple of years. It cures just as expected with my solacure lamp.

And then I decided to try the "I can't believe it's not lacquer" and the only thing I can't believe about it so far is it won't cure. Contacted Wahoo and they blamed the wood so I layed a coat on top of cured poly resin on a test piece to see what would happen. Three hours out in the direct sunlight and it still feels rubbery to the touch. That was after a half hour under the lamp made it dry enough to move outside only. And you're supposed to sand this between coats? The grain filler i got with it cured in about 2 minutes. Wahoo also suggested my lamp lacked power even though it's exactly what they recommend. And it cures all their other products. The sun is not lacking power though.

I hate to give up on these products if I'm right on the brink of success.

Any experience that might help me? I'm getting low on sand paper.

Thanks,
 
GBCues

GBCues

Damn, still .002 TIR!
Gold Member
Silver Member
JC,
The white spots you are seeing are micro-bubbles that then turn white when they fill with sanding dust. These bubbles can be introduced if the Solarez is stirred too vigorously (like with some kind of power mixer) or if it is shaken. Apparently, there is a component that floats to the top and that must be thoroughly stirred in with a popsicle stick or other stirring stick.
Some have had good results using a hair dryer or heat gun to pop the bubbles after it is laid out on the cue but before you hit it with the UV.
I warm my stick and Solarez to 85 F or even a little higher to help it flow out easier. It gets much thinner that way.
But maybe you knew all this already, if so, ignore.
Gary
 
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Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
What Gary said, plus let it slow rotate for at least 10 minutes before curing...that gives time for bubbles to rise and the surfacing agent to do it's thing.Should be rotated in a warm enclosure, around 80 - 85 degrees keeps it thinner and flows out better and lets the bubbles rise easier. What kind of wood was it and how many coats of shellac was applied? It was a NO wax formula, correct? It is possible if not sealed well, that micro bubbles will form from the cuewood releasing air...
Dave
 
whammo57

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
Dave38 said:
What Gary said, plus let it slow rotate for at least 10 minutes before curing...that gives time for bubbles to rise and the surfacing agent to do it's thing.Should be rotated in a warm enclosure, around 80 - 85 degrees keeps it thinner and flows out better and lets the bubbles rise easier. What kind of wood was it and how many coats of shellac was applied? It was a NO wax formula, correct? It is possible if not sealed well, that micro bubbles will form from the cuewood releasing air...
Dave
Click to expand...

I agree with the wood out gassing...... that is why I always totally seal with an epoxy base coat before applying Solarez.............. the worst woods I have seen for bubbling are black palm and purple heart......... and never sand Solarez between coats........

Kim
 
JC

JC

Coos Cues
Thanks for the tips guys. Kim thank you for the videos, lots of good tidbits there. Glad I'm not the only one who the low odor stuff wouldn't harden for. If you talk to wahoo they act like it's just me. Wish I would have bought it from Amazon instead of directly from wahoo the return wouldn't be an argument.

I ordered a new quart of poly finish. I think among other things the stuff I have has been sitting here too long. Bought it open bottle along with the lamp about two years ago from a member here. It seems way thicker than what Kim is using in his video. If I tried applying it with a glove it would rip it right off my hand.


Padauk is a bad gasser too. Even some stitch rings I made out of it spits out air.

Getting my new batch on Friday and hope to report good results on Monday!
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
I use the vinyl ester grain sealer they sell...you apply it and cure it right away. That seals the wood before air can cause the bubbles. For wood like padauk, zebrawood, etc, multiple coats are needed to get a flat surface after sanding it down, but I haven't had bubbles. I haven't had a problem with the new formula yet. I haven't tried the Not lacquer yet, but have seen some good results from a guitar maker using it. Who have you talked to at Wahoo? I usually have talked with Gary, the owner, he is the one that actually makes the formulations.
FYI, I use a 4 bulb config for curing, have not had it not harden except when using Cocobolo, not realizing it was coco...the oils just kept pouring out of it. Even the vinyl ester sealer wouldn't harden.
Dave
 
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Snooker Theory

Snooker Theory

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Likely just ignore my post, but I have done tons of repairs on surfboards using solarez, its a different solarez than what goes on cues(thanks again Dave for teling me the right product for cues) everything is of course different and likely nothing translates over to cue making. But I followed advice similar to this thread when I was having trouble sealing up and epoxy board and getting a lot of bubbles. Probably worthless to you as a cuemaker but here it is if you are bored. http://forum.realsurf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18220
https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1932/macle32a.pdf
 
D

deanoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU
from your favorite customer when he pays

Dean

warm regards ole timer
 
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