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Dufferin Conersion One piece to Sneaky Pete
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mikemosconi
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Dufferin Conersion One piece to Sneaky Pete - 09-17-2019, 02:32 AM

I have posted in "ask the cue maker" for technical opinions- but would also like some player opinions on this: Doing a conversion of a 19 0z Old red leaf one piece Dufferin with a straight and perfect 12.75MM shaft. Cue has already been cut in half- see photos.

My first choice on the joint for this true sneaky pete-no collars- is a 3/8 10 pin in butt and wood threads with no brass insert in shaft.

Question is will cue play as solid with this 3/8 10 set-up as it would with a smaller pin such as 5/16 in butt with a brass insert in the shaft.

Second question is - any reason why the pin should be in the shaft as opposed to in the butt end? I have seen this set- up on some conversions and wondered why?

Presently own a Stenback sneaky with 3/8 10 pin in butt and wood threads in shaft and have no issues with the cue=plays solid. Appreciate for your experienced based opinions!
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09-17-2019, 03:05 AM

Do it whichever way you prefer...but don't break with it, with no collars.
  
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09-17-2019, 04:56 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemosconi View Post
I have posted in "ask the cue maker" for technical opinions- but would also like some player opinions on this: Doing a conversion of a 19 0z Old red leaf one piece Dufferin with a straight and perfect 12.75MM shaft. Cue has already been cut in half- see photos.

My first choice on the joint for this true sneaky pete-no collars- is a 3/8 10 pin in butt and wood threads with no brass insert in shaft.

Question is will cue play as solid with this 3/8 10 set-up as it would with a smaller pin such as 5/16 in butt with a brass insert in the shaft.

Second question is - any reason why the pin should be in the shaft as opposed to in the butt end? I have seen this set- up on some conversions and wondered why?

Presently own a Stenback sneaky with 3/8 10 pin in butt and wood threads in shaft and have no issues with the cue=plays solid. Appreciate for your experienced based opinions!

The early Dufferin sneaky petes had the pin in the shaft.
I thought it was inefficient because if you want multiple shafts....you need a pin for every one.


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09-17-2019, 11:16 AM

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Originally Posted by pt109 View Post
The early Dufferin sneaky petes had the pin in the shaft.
I thought it was inefficient because if you want multiple shafts....you need a pin for every one.
Thanks! I do actually have two 3/8 10 shafts from other cues that i may want to try with the Dufferin- so a good reason for me to stick with pin in the butt end of cue.
  
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09-17-2019, 11:23 AM

3/8x10 or 11 pin in the butt and do a phenolic insert in the shaft, no point in muddying it up with collars....


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09-17-2019, 11:31 AM

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Originally Posted by $TAKE HOR$E View Post
3/8x10 or 11 pin in the butt and do a phenolic insert in the shaft, no point in muddying it up with collars....
Thanks- this seems to be the answer I am getting from the most knowledgeable- 3/8 10 pin with phenolic shaft insert- that will be my choice!
  
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09-17-2019, 12:15 PM

I'm all for someone doing thing their own way. I did this very project, but my buddy the CueMaker, Guido Orlandi did it for me. He inserted his SUPERIOR joining system into the cue.

In most of the metal & wood machining industry, around the world, a joint called "the Morse Taper is used, to join the cutting tool to the tool holder, so that concentricity & center line alignment is at perfection or near perfection. That is Guido's Conical Joint. People that have his Cues, love them & folks that try them, love them too.

Here are some pics...
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09-17-2019, 12:33 PM

Love the cork.

That joint looks a lot like one seen years ago (longoni?).
  
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09-17-2019, 12:40 PM

Yes, it is similar to that old joint. Guido & I designed this Joint & it is much more stable, than the Layani or Lambros Joint was. The joint is similar to a Morse Taper, which has been used in Industry, for decades,




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09-17-2019, 12:44 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ceebee View Post
Yes, it is similar to that old joint. Guido & I designed this Joint & it is much more stable, than the Layani or Longoni Joint was. The joint is similar to a Morse Taper, which has been used in Industry, for decades,
Neato burrito.

Further, it is my understanding that that joint is so secure, it actually does not need the threaded pin inside it.
  
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09-17-2019, 12:55 PM

The Morse Taper, i.e. Conical Joint does not always use a threaded fastener, to hold it in place, but commonly does have a secondary center thread, to insure it's secure. In Industry.there are lots of OSHA Rules

On my Lathe, you just shove it in there & get started. But it's just not quite the same... I love my GUIDO Cue, I have put away all my fancy cues. It feels like an outstanding one piece Cue




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