lead tape on cue

evergruven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
watching kazakis vs. earl 2018 i9o and danny d just said
"there's a guy behind kazakis that I think fell asleep..I hope he's not dead"
and may danny outlive us all:grin:

so I want to switch up the balance point on a cue I've got
I know lead tape has been proffered as a tool
but I've never used the stuff
any tips on what to get/application?
 

bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
In tennis it’s common to use lead tape to alter balance point and swing weights (not relevant to cues I don’t think but maybe )
Depending if you are moving the weight forward or backwards you would need to be careful where you put it
So it doesn’t get in the way
If you go to tennis sites you will find lead tape to buy
 

evergruven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
In tennis it’s common to use lead tape to alter balance point and swing weights (not relevant to cues I don’t think but maybe )
Depending if you are moving the weight forward or backwards you would need to be careful where you put it
So it doesn’t get in the way
If you go to tennis sites you will find lead tape to buy

thanks larry I like that..
I'm a tennis fool too
I like my tennis racket weight in the back
near my hand, coz I generate my own pace
but I know some players like the tape up top
it's kinda like hitting with a heavier cue
you get a little more behind the ball
but in pool I like the balance point in front more
figure messin wit some tape is better(cheaper)
than buying a brand new cue ^_^
 

Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
For a fun experiment try wrapping a piece around the ferrule and shooting some side spin shots that way. You'll have a new appreciation for the importance of "shaft end mass" to the amount of squirt your shaft generates.

pj
chgo
 

evergruven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
wow, so I just tried foil tape on my cue

cue is
18.8oz.
56" long
balance point is 40 inches from tip (rear-weighted)

I used 1 oz. tape, loosely attached and tried moving it around
to my surprise, the balance point only moved ~1/3 inch forward
moving the tape up every six inches all the way to the tip!
crazy..I never would have thought that 1 oz.
would be so meaningless

I guess this means once a balance point is fixed (and there's no weight bolt to remove)
that's pretty much that- ?*



*in pics, pen shows where og balance point is
and tape movement
 

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Straightpool_99

I see dead balls
Silver Member
Hmm...I always thought an even weight distrubution was the most important thing in a cue. I've had several cues with different balance points, and it didn't impact my playing much. But I had a cue that had a huge weight bolt in it, because the rest was so light. That was very distracting. So I guess if you wanted to add weight without messing up the weight distribution you could spiral some lead tape the lenght of the cue.

If you wanted the weight forward, you could add some washers at the joint, maybe. May have to go heavier than you allready tried. I would be better to have your cue repairman add some weight to the shaft, though.
 
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straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I used to favor a forward balance and grip; kept the front from floating for one thing. Now I just hold the cues long and my previous 'requirements' seem like a crock.

There's also a good reason for a back weighted cue and long grip. You have less lateral distortion causing, leverage.
 

evergruven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hmm...I always thought an even weight distrubution was the most important thing in a cue. I've had several cues with different balance points, and it didn't impact my playing much. But I had a cue that had a huge weight bolt in it, because the rest was so light. That was very distracting. So I guess if you wanted to add weight without messing up the weight distribution you could spiral some lead tape the lenght of the cue.

If you wanted the weight forward, you could add some washers at the joint, maybe. May have to go heavier than you allready tried. I would be better to have your cue repairman add some weight to the shaft, though.

I've said it before, and as time goes on
I only feel more confident that for *me*
(and I do suspect others, even if they don't know it)
weight distribution is the single most important cue aspect
I've done some research at home that's telling me that
regardless of cue weight or length
if the cue is balanced a certain way
I can play the way I like
I've got some other ideas and numbers on this
but for now

so I got this billiards cue- I like it but I bought it on the net (cheap tho)
and of course as soon as I got it, I realized it wasn't going to work balance-wise
I tried to sell it (60 shipped if anybody wants- haven't chalked it) with no luck
said screw it (literally, wood joint too) and am trying to see if it can go at all
but after this experiment, I don't see how
the tape I used was spread out weight-wise
maybe more focused weight would help?
weight is weight tho in this case, right?
I don't want to mess with the joint
not sure it would help anyway
I'm just messing with it
not a big deal
interesting tho

yall poolers chime in, let me know what chall thank~
 

evergruven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I used to favor a forward balance and grip; kept the front from floating for one thing. Now I just hold the cues long and my previous 'requirements' seem like a crock.

There's also a good reason for a back weighted cue and long grip. You have less lateral distortion causing, leverage.

'preciate the anecdotal evidence
but if I peel my grip hand back
my bridge hand moves back with it
me, I lose control which is already in short supply
I don't think I can do it main
 

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
'preciate the anecdotal evidence
but if I peel my grip hand back
my bridge hand moves back with it
me, I lose control which is already in short supply
I don't think I can do it main

You use a short cue. Is it for pool or caroms?

FWIW there isn't that much lost in a real long bridge unless you stroke the entire 15, 16 inches. Use a normal length stroke with a 14" bridge and you can hit just as well and be far enough away to frame the object ball and cue ball.
 

evergruven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You use a short cue. Is it for pool or caroms?

FWIW there isn't that much lost in a real long bridge unless you stroke the entire 15, 16 inches. Use a normal length stroke with a 14" bridge and you can hit just as well and be far enough away to frame the object ball and cue ball.

it's a billiards cue, but I've literally not even shot with it
I got it in the mail, didn't like the balance, tried to sell it, failed
so now I'm here:thumbup:

I do like several of its features tho-
12mm tip, conical taper, wood joint
and since we're on the subject
I've wondered to myself
and now out loud
all other things equal
would it matter if my cue was just..shorter?
I gave up on the nba long ago, don't need the extra length
obviously tough to stretch with, but otherwise ?
feel free to chime in on that one too
always appreciate more poolpinions-
 

garczar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
In tennis it’s common to use lead tape to alter balance point and swing weights (not relevant to cues I don’t think but maybe )
Depending if you are moving the weight forward or backwards you would need to be careful where you put it
So it doesn’t get in the way
If you go to tennis sites you will find lead tape to buy
Golf shops sell it also. I wouldn't use it. I use it on golf clubs and its real sticky. Might be hard to get off a nice cue. Not a good idea imo.
 
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