There’s a new tool called “Cue Straightener” haven’t you heard of it?
Just kidding
Best
Fatboy
My Brunswick Conversions by CuesDirectly
- Thread starter TATE
- Start date
There’s a new tool called “Cue Straightener” haven’t you heard of it?
Just kidding
Best
Fatboy
There’s a new tool called “Cue Straightener” haven’t you heard of it?
Just kidding
Best
Fatboy
I'll see if David can comment!
Chris
On the way out the door right now but it's simple, I start with a board stretcher from Home Despot.
In reality, they are simple because they get a complete new turning between centers, the Hoppe cues were very thick at the bottom to compensate.
Enjoy, Dave.
Those conversions are super nice! Hats off to the cue maker:smile:
Despite his remark, that does take knowledge and skill. Many cue maker's don't like to work with them or want to short splice them with a new handle - David works with what you've got. I absolutely didn't want a wrap, plus he kept the original weight stamp on the Titleist - love it!
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Those cues came out fantastic. Great designs, great execution.
Good morning, another wonderful day. Sorry to have been a smartass and not doing a good job of explaining things but my wife was standing at the door with that look, 33 years of that look meant I better get going.
Any cue you ever held, any cue anyone ever held is warped but that does not mean you can tell with the human eye, it only means you need better equipment to measure it. Cue makers measure by the thousands of an inch, we don't need to measure by the millionths of an inch or by the Atom itself. When between centers, the Purpleheart cue was exactly .029" off. With both ends inserted into centers on my lathe, I use a Dial Indicator at middle of the cue to measure how far off it is.
Twenty nine thousands of one inch is easy to make up on an old Hoppe cue because the bottom of the cue is very thick, around 1.40" or so.
When finished, the bottom of the cue will be 1.25", that means that we cut the outside of the cue straight between centers.
Is it straight at that time? As straight as any cue can be, just don't measure by the millionths of an inch. Much like a pool table, there is nothing level about a pool table, it's only level to specs needed, just look at the +/- in the specs.
Another note about these old cues, their weights. Nothing but a solid piece of lead, no problem there but it's how they put them in that was the problem. Just by looking at them my best guess is the weights were put in with a hand held power drill with no attempt at being straight into the bottom of the cue. Their inability to center the weight properly would often lead to cues that were heavy on one side. You will know when you roll one across the table, it will always come to rest at the same spot.
A special Thanks to Tate, he was right to ask for a better explanation, ride on. Any other questions will be well respected, Thanks again, Dave.
I love the flat faced joint with the big pin. I think that is a great way to connect the two pieces. I'm wondering if that is a Micarta joint or ?
I've asked David to comment on this - not sure of what material he used.
Here are the reproduction decals I applied. I will still shoot a thin coat of clear acrylic over them. These are exact reproductions of the originals we lost due to the refinish. These are very high quality reproductions by Classic Billiards. I put them on any restored or converted cue. It adds a touch of class, color and history.
https://www.classicbilliards.net/antique-parts-accessories/decals/catagory/pool-cue-decals.html
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RandomPocket
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Those are very pretty!
I’d love to get my hands on a quality conversion like that some day!
Nice job!!
I’d love to get my hands on a quality conversion like that some day!
Nice job!!
Those decals look real nice, I want dozens, will be looking at them.
The joint material is Juma, made me happy to see that Jay liked them, he's a highly respected member of the Billiards community. Thanks Jay, in fact, Thanks and Greenies to all posters to this thread on this fine day.
Thanks again to Tate and the fantastic AZBilliards, the only place online I like to make comments.
I'm surprised how much those cues were taken down. The Purpleheart (4th from the right) looks like originally it had a wrap. Now the finished cue is wrapless. That's quite a lot of material that came off and under that wrap was the rest of the points and a beautiful handle. All most a shame it had a wrap in the first place.
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That one was pretty hefty. I have Hoppe pro's that are easliy thick enough to remove the wrap channel as well.
On the purpleheart cue, there is a small line in the finished cue on one side of the wrap groove in the front. It shows in the pictures. David didn't want to turn it down too much so he left it there.