Shifting the pot line

VelvetBulldozer said:

To give background, I use a similar sighting system to what Lee Brett is teaching here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYRygaWcJp8

Traditionally, you draw a line (pot line) from the center of the pocket through the object ball. The contact point is where that line crosses the back of the object ball. I find that step really easy, even if you are bad at visualization.

The tricky part is aligning yourself to that line, because if you align yourself to cross that contract point, you are going to miss the shot, unless it is straight or within 5 degrees.

Usually, this is where double to distance system comes into work. Because if you take the distance from the center of the object ball to the contact point and double it outside of the ball, you will get the point of intersection between the poting line and aiming line which is also the center of the ghost ball.

What I've found more useful is to parallel shift the pot line to the outside. Meaning if you aim to the left, you shift the pot line to the right, and if you aim to the right, you shift the line to the left. That way the line gives you a new contact point, where you can directly align your aiming line, which I've found to be easier and more consistent. Probably the easier way is to start outside of center pocket (like you will attempt to cheat it) but draw the line through the ball and not through the center.

Has anyone experimented with something similar?

Click to expand...

First, it is the cue that needs aligning, and not to the line to the pocket, but to the line to CB will take to the OB.

Place two balls touching each other. Doubling the distance between one ball center and contact point results in a full ball width. Looking at the two balls that are touching each other......is the center of one ball to the contact point a full ball width?

The center of the CB at OB contact is always 1/2 ball width from the contact point of the two balls.

Try this........draw two circles, A and B, with the edges touching. Draw a line through the center of each. This is the potting line as you call it.

A is the OB. B is the CB.

Now, draw another circle, C, such the the edge of the circle is touching another spot on circle A. Circle C represents the another CB, but contacting circle A at a different point than circle B.

Draw a line through the center of circle C and circle A.

Notice that the change in potting line rotates at circle A center.

The actual potting line starts at the centers of circles B and C.

The end of the point of the potting line moves in the opposite direction of where circle C is placed. If circle C is placed to the right of circle B, the potting line end point moves left of circle B potting line end point.

How much the potting line end point moves is determined by distance from pocket.

VelvetBulldozer said:

To give background, I use a similar sighting system to what Lee Brett is teaching here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYRygaWcJp8

Traditionally, you draw a line (pot line) from the center of the pocket through the object ball. The contact point is where that line crosses the back of the object ball. I find that step really easy, even if you are bad at visualization.

The tricky part is aligning yourself to that line, because if you align yourself to cross that contract point, you are going to miss the shot, unless it is straight or within 5 degrees.

Usually, this is where double to distance system comes into work. Because if you take the distance from the center of the object ball to the contact point and double it outside of the ball, you will get the point of intersection between the poting line and aiming line which is also the center of the ghost ball.

What I've found more useful is to parallel shift the pot line to the outside. Meaning if you aim to the left, you shift the pot line to the right, and if you aim to the right, you shift the line to the left. That way the line gives you a new contact point, where you can directly align your aiming line, which I've found to be easier and more consistent. Probably the easier way is to start outside of center pocket (like you will attempt to cheat it) but draw the line through the ball and not through the center.

Has anyone experimented with something similar?

Click to expand...

I have put in bold two statements that stand out. Good post by the way.

I also find it tricky to align my stroke offset from the contact point just right.

The part where you say you get a new point to aim directly at, well.....that's what I suggest to do regardless of what aiming you use. By visualizing an aim point on the ob, a point that you can line straight up with, you give your brain more visual data for the shot, which allows more accurate recall when needed. It's for this reason alone that I think fractional aiming is easier and quicker to grasp than any other method. But to each their own. What's easy for you might be difficult for me, or vice versa.

Parallel Aiming

VelvetBulldozer said:

To give background, I use a similar sighting system to what Lee Brett is teaching here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYRygaWcJp8

Traditionally, you draw a line (pot line) from the center of the pocket through the object ball. The contact point is where that line crosses the back of the object ball. I find that step really easy, even if you are bad at visualization.

The tricky part is aligning yourself to that line, because if you align yourself to cross that contract point, you are going to miss the shot, unless it is straight or within 5 degrees.

Usually, this is where double to distance system comes into work. Because if you take the distance from the center of the object ball to the contact point and double it outside of the ball, you will get the point of intersection between the poting line and aiming line which is also the center of the ghost ball.

What I've found more useful is to parallel shift the pot line to the outside. Meaning if you aim to the left, you shift the pot line to the right, and if you aim to the right, you shift the line to the left. That way the line gives you a new contact point, where you can directly align your aiming line, which I've found to be easier and more consistent. Probably the easier way is to start outside of center pocket (like you will attempt to cheat it) but draw the line through the ball and not through the center.

Has anyone experimented with something similar?

Click to expand...

Let’s start with some facts.
The pocket center contact point on the object ball is the farthest point on the object ball from the target location.
The nature of spheres is that only one relative point on the cue ball equator can contact that exact point.
A center hit cue ball travels in a predictable straight line.
A line drawn from contact point to contact point is also straight.
To travel on that straight line the center ball path must travel parallel to the contact point to contact point line.
That center ball parallel travel line passes through the ghost ball center.

I do the following:
I locate the desired target line to the pocket and contact point on the object ball.
I shift that line parallel to the cue ball center and note where the parallel line through the ball exits the ball on the farthest point opposite the center ball line entry point on the ball face.
Hovering my cue to hold that exit point, I pivot the cue from that point until the cue line is pointed at the object ball contact point.
This creates the contact point to contact point line.
Shifting the line parallel to the cue ball center now points through the ghost ball center.

Players who get down and discover that they need to cut the ball a little more often simply pivot the cue slightly thinking they are adjusting the contact point by the amount of the shift. If they realize they are no longer pointing through center ball due to the pivot away and now pivot the bridge and cue back to center ball, an adjustment has been made. However, the bridge pivot point is not where the adjustment needs to come from. The front of the cue ball contact needs to align to the object ball contact point. However, the bridge pivot point sets the contact point through the cue ball center. They can’t make the cue ball hit the imagined contact point through center ball contact from that fixed bridge location. Both contact points must be adjusted, the front of the cue ball contact point and the desired adjusted contact point.

The process of starting the setup from a basic ball to ball line then adjusting while getting down sets many players on a starting fat contact line. Doing a pivot to adjust subconsciously by the body understanding the line won’t work Is usually a visual adjustment to a point slightly left or right to cut the ball more, that amounts to a two dimensional adjustment, to a three dimensional problem. It fails to adjust the cue ball contact point. The result once again is that a straight cueing action through center ball still contacts the object ball too fat.

Without the parallel shift from the new contact point needed on the cue ball, the old contact point can’t actually contact the adjusted desired object ball contact point. The curvature of the ball makes it so the desired contact point is around the ball’s edge, an impossible contact. The attempt results in a fat hit.

A word of caution to those who use fractional aiming is that it is a two dimensional system. Unless they start while standing on the fractional contact line they run the risk of the same issue if adjusting while down.

VelvetBulldozer said:

To give background, I use a similar sighting system to what Lee Brett is teaching here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYRygaWcJp8

Traditionally, you draw a line (pot line) from the center of the pocket through the object ball. The contact point is where that line crosses the back of the object ball. I find that step really easy, even if you are bad at visualization.

The tricky part is aligning yourself to that line, because if you align yourself to cross that contract point, you are going to miss the shot, unless it is straight or within 5 degrees.

Usually, this is where double to distance system comes into work. Because if you take the distance from the center of the object ball to the contact point and double it outside of the ball, you will get the point of intersection between the poting line and aiming line which is also the center of the ghost ball.

What I've found more useful is to parallel shift the pot line to the outside. Meaning if you aim to the left, you shift the pot line to the right, and if you aim to the right, you shift the line to the left. That way the line gives you a new contact point, where you can directly align your aiming line, which I've found to be easier and more consistent. Probably the easier way is to start outside of center pocket (like you will attempt to cheat it) but draw the line through the ball and not through the center.

Has anyone experimented with something similar?

Click to expand...

Are you talking about one of these common methods?

Basic Aiming Methods Illustrated

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