I'm just about ready to have my table setup and I've decided that I'm going to have all the rubber replaced. The table is a Connelly Avondale and the existing factory cushions are something called ICON by Connelly. One of the installers quoted me a price using championship cushions and if I wanted the ICON rubber, it would be about $100 more. Any feedback on these two cushions or any others I should be considering would be appreciated.
Getting new cushions. Need opinions.
- Thread starter Joe Mags
- Start date
You want the best and don't mind paying for it - Klematch / Kleber or Artemis cushions. Either are available from Ken at Classic Billiards. If you tell Ken what manufacturer and model of table, he'll confirm if the table takes K55 or K66 profile on the cushions you order.
Why stop there, might as well include Northern k-55 profile snooker cushions too.
Joe,
What is your long term goal? Are you going to try to "Diamondize" your table? Do you just want to make your table "playable"? Perhaps extra challenging? If you are undecided as to your goal, make that decision first, then choose the materials next.
East Ridge Billiards converted two of our twelve GC V Tournament Edition tables to Artemis rail rubbers with 4 3/8" pockets. Most of our customers preferred the original Super Speed rubbers with the 5 1/4" pockets. Which player are you?
Lyn
Wow, lots to think about. I've looked at the brands mentioned so far and I think the really high end stuff is just too much. I'm just an intermediate player at best and the table will see a lot of use by my sons and their friends (teens). I do like quality in all things and don't want anything that's junk. It's a really good table and I'm putting 860 cloth on it with Aramith Tournament balls, so I'm trying not to half ass it with the rubber. I guess I'm looking for something in keeping with the whole affair without breaking the bank.
If that's the case, Championship tour edition or Championship pro-am cushion rubbers should suffice. Just make sure they are replaced with the same profile cushion rubber as what was originally on the table, which, on a Connelly, I'm pretty sure was K66. I would also order a set of the black neoprene facings, which are better than the cheap pocket facings most pool table manufacturers use.
Lastly, I would confirm that the mechanic you're hiring to do the work on your table is experienced in replacing cushion rubbers, and in installing Simonis cloth, as it needs to be done right. Don't just make the assumption that they know how to do it right.
There he is! RKC, you might wanna let everyone know the details about using the higher end cushions on just any old table.
I do know this: most manufacturer's uses their own degree of angle on the sub rails. Just because it says k-55/ k-66 does not mean it will play correctly with different cushions. Look how long it took to make the Artemis play right on the Diamond tables!!!( RKC made that happen).
Since you know the manufacturer is Connelly and that they use their ICON cushions, putting anything else on there that is k-66 is not going to make a huge difference. Connelly most likely designed/ tested the cushions in cahoots with their tables.
Making sure your mechanic knows how to install/cut the cushions right (141 corners &102 sides), install/ shape the 60 durometer neoprene facings right( RKC says 1/4" is the largest with out making the pocket play wonky, I agree totally), leveling the table and stretching the Simonis correctly. These are the most important parts. Just my 2 cents. Good luck to you!
Trent from Toledo
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The following is from the Connelly website. They do not even know what they are using.
They refer to both K-55 and K-66. I have a Connelly table and so do a couple of other friends. In all our instances their ICON cushions started going hard in just 2 to 3 years. They were new tables at the time. I replaced them myself with Artemis K-66 and one of my friends' with Artemis K-66 and I and he have been happy since.
THE EXCLUSIVE RAPID RAIL
The revolutionary Rapid Rail reflects our commitment to constantly improve our design through innovation. It combines engineering and superior materials to provide awesome ball response. Each individual rail is laid out and drilled to proportionally accept four rail bolts instead of the industry standard three. The additional rail bolts provide a more consistent rail tension for more consistent play. When integrated a K-55 cushion, imported from England's finest ISO 9001 rubber manufacturer and available only through Connelly, the result is a precise and true ball response which actually even sounds better. The Rapid Rail is a standard feature on all Connelly models.
Four bolts per rail
Four 3/8" rail bolts in each rail results in a much tighter rail for superior ball response and quieter play.
The Cushion
Quite simply the best playing cushion made today. The cushion is a natural rubber formulation with the perfect touch of materials technology. It is a full profile K-66 cushion featuring canvas backing and a response-enhancing compression groove. Solid poplar rail bottom designed in tandem with our cushion to offer the best in precise and consistent play.
Premium rail hardware
Connelly policy is no wimpy hardware. Self-locking dome tooth washers and t-nut fasteners insure your rail system will remain tight and responsive for many years.
[/quote]. The additional rail bolts provide a more consistent rail tension for more consistent play. When integrated a K-55 cushion, imported from England's
It is a full profile K-66 cushion featuring canvas backing and a response-enhancing.[/QUOTE]
Still confused....k66 or k55?
It is a full profile K-66 cushion featuring canvas backing and a response-enhancing.[/QUOTE]
Still confused....k66 or k55?
[/quote]. The additional rail bolts provide a more consistent rail tension for more consistent play. When integrated a K-55 cushion, imported from England's
It is a full profile K-66 cushion featuring canvas backing and a response-enhancing.[/QUOTE]
Still confused....k66 or k55? And the t-nut system for bolting the rails on a pool table is the worst system ever!!!
It is a full profile K-66 cushion featuring canvas backing and a response-enhancing.[/QUOTE]
Still confused....k66 or k55? And the t-nut system for bolting the rails on a pool table is the worst system ever!!!
I think the lesson here is DO NOT BUY A Conelly table?? I did not do any research on Connelly because I do not work on anything other than Brunswick & Diamond tables, but, I do stand behind the things I said
Sounds like we have some actual data on what to use now, better than guessing! Good luck!
Trent from Toledo
. The additional rail bolts provide a more consistent rail tension for more consistent play. When integrated a K-55 cushion, imported from England's
It is a full profile K-66 cushion featuring canvas backing and a response-enhancing.[/QUOTE]
Still confused....k66 or k55?[/QUOTE]
Yes, it is confusing...lol. My cushions happened to be K-66 profile. Other posts on here have indicated that they had a K-55 profile installed. Additionally, it has been reported that there have been different rail heights, anywhere from 1 1/2" upto 1 5/8". Obviously this can affect the playability depending on the subrail angle and type of cushion installed. On my table, they are just over 1 1/2". Nose of the cushion is at 1 3/8" to 1/32" under that depending on which rail it is installed. Plays pretty good with the Artemis all things considered. I also put 60 durometer 3/16" neoprene facings on. That dropped the pocket opening to 4 5/8". This was 9 or 10 years ago before Valley/Dynamo took over Connelly.
It is a full profile K-66 cushion featuring canvas backing and a response-enhancing.[/QUOTE]
Still confused....k66 or k55?[/QUOTE]
Yes, it is confusing...lol. My cushions happened to be K-66 profile. Other posts on here have indicated that they had a K-55 profile installed. Additionally, it has been reported that there have been different rail heights, anywhere from 1 1/2" upto 1 5/8". Obviously this can affect the playability depending on the subrail angle and type of cushion installed. On my table, they are just over 1 1/2". Nose of the cushion is at 1 3/8" to 1/32" under that depending on which rail it is installed. Plays pretty good with the Artemis all things considered. I also put 60 durometer 3/16" neoprene facings on. That dropped the pocket opening to 4 5/8". This was 9 or 10 years ago before Valley/Dynamo took over Connelly.
I think the lesson here is DO NOT BUY A Conelly table?? I did not do any research on Connelly because I do not work on anything other than Brunswick & Diamond tables, but, I do stand behind the things I said
Good luck!
Trent from Toledo
Actually, I may not necessarily agree with that statement. I feel it still plays better than Olhausen, and the Brunswick HOME style tables are nothing to write home about. In my opinion, the upper end Connelly tables (Plateau and Ultimate series) were beefier and better constructed than the Brunswick home style tables. That is why I chose Connelly over Brunswick at that time when I purchased my table new. I just wish I knew more about cushion and subrail angles back then before I discovered this forum. Brunswick has had issues with inconsistencies with the rubber and rails on their tables in the past as well. This probably does not apply to their commercial tables. Again, just my opinions. I cannot wait until my new Diamond Professional gets here in a couple of months.
Lots of good info here. Thanks to everyone so far. So, my take aways at this point are: Stay away from the Connelly ICON. Artemis is awesome but really expensive. I'd probably be happy with Championship for my purposes... Can anyone elaborate on the difference between the championship tour and the pro am? Also, is there another I should consider that would fall somewhere between the championship and the Artemis?
*I’m not a mechanic...
Just curious why do you want to replace the cushions. I did not see a reason in any of your posts. Did they go bad? If so, how old is the table? Thanks
Just curious why do you want to replace the cushions. I did not see a reason in any of your posts. Did they go bad? If so, how old is the table? Thanks
I just bought the table. It's pre-owned and almost twelve years old. I just don't want to worry about it.
I agree. If the cushions still feel OK, you may be better off just keeping them for now, regardless of the age of the table. If you can take your fingertip and press in the nose of the cushion roughly 1/6" to 1/4" consistently, every inch or two on every rail, and if you don't feel they are loose by trying to wiggle them from the underside, I see no reason to have them replaced either. If however, you feel some hard areas where you can't compress the cushion nose with your fingertip, then I'd suggest replacing.