Cutting sharp points in a cue blank

Shooter1

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Can someone please post a link to a video showing how to cut the sharp points in a cue blank when building a cue. I don't mean the points that have a slight rounded tip like my Schon I got in '96 which I suspect is done with a very small round milling bit of some sort. I'm looking to learn how the sharp points are done like on my old '80's Palmer or my Willie Hoppe replica. I honestly don't know how you would do this unless you did it by hand. Just trying to educate myself here.
Thanks.
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You may want to post this in the "Ask The Cuemaker" section of the forum. It will probably yield more responses.
 

Bob Jewett

AZB Osmium Member
Staff member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I've been told that it's also possible to make a pocket type of inlay with sharp points using a CNC machine and then some hand work. It seems like it would be easier to make the points come out perfectly even that way.
 
I've been told that it's also possible to make a pocket type of inlay with sharp points using a CNC machine and then some hand work. It seems like it would be easier to make the points come out perfectly even that way.

Yes, possible, but any trained eye should be able to tell the difference very easily.

I can't imagine why anyone would do that, or cnc points, they are more labor intensive than half-splice points.
 

Shooter1

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
90deg v-bit running at an angle to the axis of the butt. Put 90deg piece of wood in it. Turn smooth. Easy peasy.

OK I get it now. I watched both videos and it makes sense. On my Hoppe replica the ends of the points are not totally uniform in terms of length, close but definitely not equal so I thought I'd ask. I can only assume building them like my '96 SL6 Schon with the rounded points is easier/less labor intensive than cutting the sharp points? The sharp points look so much nicer in my opinion. That Bob Dzuricky builds some beautiful stuff.
Thanks
 

Bob Jewett

AZB Osmium Member
Staff member
Gold Member
Silver Member
OK I get it now. I watched both videos and it makes sense. On my Hoppe replica the ends of the points are not totally uniform in terms of length, close but definitely not equal so I thought I'd ask. I can only assume building them like my '96 SL6 Schon with the rounded points is easier/less labor intensive than cutting the sharp points? The sharp points look so much nicer in my opinion. That Bob Dzuricky builds some beautiful stuff.
Thanks
With splicing, you don't cut sharp points, exactly. You just end up with a sharp appearance due to the shallow angle between the 90-V-groove and the taper of the forearm.

To get the points perfectly matched requires the noses of the V-grooves to be exactly the same depth and the final turn of the forearm to be exactly centered with respect to the V-grooves. The demo video does this automatically if the lathe is accurate. I have heard that it is possible to fix points that are not quite right by re-centering the forearm before the final turn.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
With splicing, you don't cut sharp points, exactly. You just end up with a sharp appearance due to the shallow angle between the 90-V-groove and the taper of the forearm.

To get the points perfectly matched requires the noses of the V-grooves to be exactly the same depth and the final turn of the forearm to be exactly centered with respect to the V-grooves. The demo video does this automatically if the lathe is accurate. I have heard that it is possible to fix points that are not quite right by re-centering the forearm before the final turn.


Like this?? Well close anyway! :grin:

IMG_20181112_232722.jpg
 

Bob Jewett

AZB Osmium Member
Staff member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Like this?? Well close anyway! :grin:
DooD! Your lathe must have a helluva wobble to get points that far off:grin:. Nice design, though.

Has anyone seriously done a non-circular cross section butt? I've seen triangular shafts.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
DooD! Your lathe must have a helluva wobble to get points that far off:grin:. Nice design, though.

Has anyone seriously done a non-circular cross section butt? I've seen triangular shafts.


I think I actually have one. It's an old cue and almost feels square because of the design. I'll look.
 
OK I get it now. I watched both videos and it makes sense. On my Hoppe replica the ends of the points are not totally uniform in terms of length, close but definitely not equal so I thought I'd ask. I can only assume building them like my '96 SL6 Schon with the rounded points is easier/less labor intensive than cutting the sharp points? The sharp points look so much nicer in my opinion. That Bob Dzuricky builds some beautiful stuff.
Thanks

I don't know. If you are Schon and making a billion cues, the cnc is quicker...easier is questionable.

If you are Bob Dz, cnc is slower, more expensive, and harder to get the look of sharp points.
 

Chili Palmer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
With splicing, you don't cut sharp points, exactly. You just end up with a sharp appearance due to the shallow angle between the 90-V-groove and the taper of the forearm.

To get the points perfectly matched requires the noses of the V-grooves to be exactly the same depth and the final turn of the forearm to be exactly centered with respect to the V-grooves. The demo video does this automatically if the lathe is accurate. I have heard that it is possible to fix points that are not quite right by re-centering the forearm before the final turn.

I would imagine that any play in the tracks/guides/whatever the router is attached to, would play a crucial role in getting the initial grooves even. My Dzuricky seems spot on, my older Huebler is off a little, maybe less than 1/16th of inch?

OK I get it now. I watched both videos and it makes sense. On my Hoppe replica the ends of the points are not totally uniform in terms of length, close but definitely not equal so I thought I'd ask. I can only assume building them like my '96 SL6 Schon with the rounded points is easier/less labor intensive than cutting the sharp points? The sharp points look so much nicer in my opinion. That Bob Dzuricky builds some beautiful stuff.
Thanks

Yes, he does.
 

skins

Likes to draw
Silver Member
Yes, possible, but any trained eye should be able to tell the difference very easily.

I can't imagine why anyone would do that, or cnc points, they are more labor intensive than half-splice points.

Not true... Just the opposite.

Any competent maker can do flat bottom, hand knifed (or other) sharp tipped points that most if not all trained eyes COULDN'T be able to tell the difference...
 
Top