So, when my forearm is cut to about 0.950 I join it to my handle section by fitting a tenon and using a screw. From what I gather, most cue makers wait to join their forearm to handle nearer to the finished diameters. I need to ask why.
What if the A-joint is done much earlier? If you still allow time between cuts (like a one-piece), does it increase the risk of warp?
Next, I was wondering if the tenon is really necessary. Has anyone just gone wood-to-wood between the forearm and handle and just used epoxy and a strong screw? Dumb questions?
Hi,
Great question, here is what I have learned concerning the A-Joint connection, which I feel in the most critical operation in cue making.
On my CNC Floating point cues (not veneer point cues) I assemble the complete cue using a one piece solid core that is 3/4" and stepped to 5/8" at the A-Joint (12" back from the front) to the pin. I thread and epoxy a weight bolt behind the joint pin for weight purposes and it gives my cue a more forward balance by about and additional 2 inches. I like that feature of extra forward balance.
Before I assemble these cues I turn the forearm, handle, butt sleeve and 1 3/8" with the pin installed right after the first clean up cut taper pass between centers. The joint collar,decor rings and the butt cap are also glued and pressed during the assembly.
After the cue receives the forward weight bolt and the pin installation. I hog the initial taper down to about .900 at the joint collar and cut all my pockets and install all of the inlays. All of my tapering cuts are done between centers with the pin installed.
I hang the cue for at least a week and then take about 10 light passes on my butt tapering saw machine over the next week or so. I have never experienced a warping problem and I use gorilla glue for joining my laminated dowels to the cored parts.
Most of the wood has been hanging in my shop for a long time before it gets picked for a cue. I have never had any problems whatsoever!
I join my point cues with an 18" laminated dowel forming a tenon with a 7/8" exposure out of the cored handle. I epoxy this tenon with an a-joint screw and buzz ring. We also install an extra weight bolt behind the pin for the forward weighting on some lighter forearm materials. My joint dimension is usually at about .875 at this time.
I think most people assemble at a smaller forearm dimension because they don't want any point run out during the final tapering cuts after assembly. I install my pin before I cut my point grooves when my joint size is .925 and my points stay perfect when I tapper cut the forearm down to .875.
If you don't assemble the cue just right with perfect facing and the proper tolerances for gluing the A-Joint you can get a tiny wobble at the a-joint that can make your points move a hair when you taper down to your finial dimension.
If you assemble at .950 and get a little wobble, your points may go way off on you.
After assembling the A-Jpint if I get a hair of wobble at .875, a point or 2 may move 3/16" or so but there's not a problem sanding them back that small amount to match with some 220 grit before sealing the cue.
Again for plain Janes or floating point CNC cues assembling at .950 or higher does not present any problems as you don't have to worry about points moving!!
Rick G
