Step by Step, with photos, easy and safe shaft cleaning

TATE

AzB Gold Mensch
Silver Member
After playing (bad) at Hollywood Billiards, I had a shaft full of red stuff. I wanted to wash it off - check out the before and after pics.

Magic Eraser is melamine foam that cleans at the cellular level. The substance gets stuff out while being minimally abrasive. It is roughly the equivalent of 1500 grit paper. It's unique cell structure reaches deep into the pores.

The photos below show why red chalk is a disaster. My playing shaft looked like that after just one day. Contrast that to the blue chalk shaft top and to the right, which had not been cleaned in years. I had already tried to wipe the red off and that didn't work, so here's how I did it.

1) Wet a magic eraser, squeeze out the excess water so it's just damp, and rub the shafts down until they were clean. You can wash out the eraser like a sponge.

2) Let the shafts dry (about 15 minutes). The water will raise the wood grain.

3) Use 1500 to 2000 grit sand paper (dry) to remove the grain.

4) Use a paper shopping bag or parchment paper* to burnish the shafts. Follow with a soft cloth or paper towel.

This is a minimally invasive cleaning technique which will not wear your shafts down while still getting all the grease, oil, chalk and residue off. The shafts stay clean a long time because the technique raises, removes, and seals the loose wood fibers, which otherwise will be raised by the sweat in your hands.

Check out the final photo - they are smooth as glass and look like new.

Chris

* Parchment Paper (bakery release paper) is used for baking and is on store shelves near the aluminum foil. It is contains polymer compounds that rub off on the wood and help seal it and make it very smooth.
 

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ridewiththewind

♥ Hippie Hustler ♥
Silver Member
After playing (bad) at Hollywood Billiards, I had a shaft full of red stuff. I wanted to wash it off - check out the before and after pics.

Magic Eraser is melamine foam that cleans at the cellular level. The substance gets stuff out while being minimally abrasive. It is roughly the equivalent of 1500 grit paper. It's unique cell structure reaches deep into the pores.

The photos below show why red chalk is a disaster. My playing shaft looked like that after just one day. Contrast that to the blue chalk shaft top and to the right, which had not been cleaned in years. I had already tried to wipe the red off and that didn't work, so here's how I did it.

1) Wet a magic eraser, squeeze out the excess water so it's just damp, and rub the shafts down until they were clean. You can wash out the eraser like a sponge.

2) Let the shafts dry (about 15 minutes). The water will raise the wood grain.

3) Use 1500 to 2000 grit sand paper (dry) to remove the grain.

4) Use a paper shopping bag to burnish the shafts. Follow with a soft cloth or paper towel.

This is a minimally invasive cleaning technique which will not wear your shafts down while still getting all the grease, oil, chalk and residue off.

Check out the final photo - they are smooth as glass and look like new.

Chris

Excellent post, Chris! Pretty much exactly as I do it.

The only difference for me is that after using the Magic Eraser, I wipe the excess moisture off with a microfiber towel, let dry about 10 minutes (in an upright position...between couch cushions works), and then I wipe lightly with denatured or a 91% alcohol, and let dry another 10 minutes or so. I feel that the alcohol helps to evaporate any excess moisture still possibly trapped inside the wood grain.

Everything else after that is exactly the same.


There is an interesting side effect to this method. I have noticed that those tiny little dingers that you can feel but hardly see, tend to disappear...kinda like killin' two birds with one stone, so to speak.

I would also add one caution...make sure you use only the Original version of the Magic Eraser!! Avoid the other versions offered, as they are either too abrasive, or some now contain added cleansers.

Lisa
 

Mike in MN

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It should also be noted that the Magic Eraser should be kept away from your cue tip. Nice info here, though. I use a nearly-identical process. :thumbup:
 

SCCues

< Searing Twins
Silver Member
This is great info and it can be done by anyone. Thanks for the tip on shaft cleaning.......

James
 

nelldrake

Waterskier/pool addict
Silver Member
Great info, Everyone.

Thanks for all your input. This has been very helpful. I learn a lot from these posts.
 

Fatboy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I couldnt believe how bad I played at H-Wood, the red wasnt a factor. I got lazy and soft on big pockets, Something is going funny with my stroke, I need to rebuild my game rom step one.

Anyways it was great to see you Chris, and thanks for this thead that red is like cancer it keeps growing. Its amazing how much pigment is in that chalk, you would think it would cost more. Its super bright red when you look at a piece with some wear its darker on a unused piece, it gets brighter with use like its expanding-hence my cancer analogy.


Again greatto see you and great thread!!!!

kindest regards,

eric P :)


PS: YOU DID A BRILLIANT JOB, BUT DONT YOU THINK THAT IF YOU DID THAT EVERYTIME YOU PLAYED POOL THAT YOUR SHAFTS WOULD BE TOOTHPICKS SOONER THAN LATER? (SERIOUS QUESTION) opps sorry for caps. Also imagine if you played a 6 hour session what they woukd look like, and its not feasable to clean a shaft after every session. Raising the grain and making it smooth again does take a little off, do that 200 days/year and I think the shafts would be history. Do you think so??? Again sorry for the caps. :eek: I chalk and bridge left handed so its real bad for me, the carpet in there will be red in 6 months, it has a blue tint now since it was first installed.


Oh one more thing I know a guy Jeff hired and his name is Billy I know him 5 years, he dosent know about pool, he will learn but he is one hell of a manager and runs a great ship, he worked for a friend of mine for a few years. Jeff really got a great guy in there to run the place. So good things will happen. I wish Billy worked for me.
 
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ctyhntr

RIP Kelly
Silver Member
From what I read in the other threads about the red table/red chalk combo, this will be appreciated by many as a public service announcement.
 

TATE

AzB Gold Mensch
Silver Member
I couldnt believe how bad I played at H-Wood, the red wasnt a factor. I got lazy and soft on big pockets, Something is going funny with my stroke, I need to rebuild my game rom step one.

Anyways it was great to see you Chris, and thanks for this thead that red is like cancer it keeps growing. Its amazing how much pigment is in that chalk, you would think it would cost more. Its super bright red when you look at a piece with some wear its darker on a unused piece, it gets brighter with use like its expanding-hence my cancer analogy.


Again greatto see you and great thread!!!!

kindest regards,

eric P :)


PS: YOU DID A BRILLIANT JOB, BUT DONT YOU THINK THAT IF YOU DID THAT EVERYTIME YOU PLAYED POOL THAT YOUR SHAFTS WOULD BE TOOTHPICKS SOONER THAN LATER? (SERIOUS QUESTION) opps sorry for caps. Also imagine if you played a 6 hour session what they woukd look like, and its not feasable to clean a shaft after every session. Raising the grain and making it smooth again does take a little off, do that 200 days/year and I think the shafts would be history. Do you think so??? Again sorry for the caps. :eek:

The red chalk is like cancer remark is hilarious! I tried to wash that crap off all day.

If I played at Hollywood a lot, I would bring a damp cloth with me and wipe down everything. Maybe they shoiuld switch over to tan chalk (seriously).

On another note, I'm glad you played in the tourney - hopefully your back is doing better, I'm glad I played too, although disappointingly so, it gives us goals and something to look forward to. None of us play enough to be consistently competitive anyway. It's fun being around those pros too and seeing old friends - it was a very nice atmosphere.

My buddy and I were worried about coming home because it looked like we were were smeared with lipstick and we weren't sure our wives would buy the red chalk story!

I only advocate cleaning the shaft when necessary (like when it stained pink!) but I think it would take a long time for the Magic Eraser or 2000 grit paper to wear out a shaft. I don't know if you ever felt a Magic Eraser but it's like a sponge and 2000 grit paper feels like a sheet of paper. That red chalk is really nasty, but surprisingly, the Magic Eraser got all that stuff off with just a few swipes.

Chris
 

Quesports

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Red Chalk

I in no way mean to hijack this thread when I describe my red chalk story. A gentlemen calls me to refinish his deck so I head over and notice the deck is brand new pressure treated lumber. There are red chalk lines at the exact location of all the deck screws. He wants me to pressure wash his deck to remove the red chalk lines. I then asked him who replaced all the deck boards and he proudly says he did it himself. Then I asked if he had the chalk that he had used which he produced for me. Then I pointed out to him on the back of the container it says it is permanent chalk not recomended for wood and not to be used on any surface that will not be painted. He had wanted his deck sealed with a clear sealer so he could see the wood grain. I then explained how I was going to have to strip his new deck and pressure wash then seal. ALL HE HAD TO DO WAS READ THE INSTRUCTIONS to avoid a costly repair.. Red chalk good for masons not so much for clear sealed wood...
 

cuetechasaurus

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Chris, can using rubbing alcohol instead of water harm your shafts? I've been using the Magic Eraser for years when my shafts get super dirty, but I use rubbing alcohol because it dries faster. I always thought there was a chance of warping your shafts if you just use water, but I've never been sure.
 

TATE

AzB Gold Mensch
Silver Member
Chris, can using rubbing alcohol instead of water harm your shafts? I've been using the Magic Eraser for years when my shafts get super dirty, but I use rubbing alcohol because it dries faster. I always thought there was a chance of warping your shafts if you just use water, but I've never been sure.

Nat,

The reason why people use rubbing alchol instead of water is because water raises the surface wood grain whereas alchohol doesn't, plus as you say the alchohol dries faster.

When water is used, it's wiped on and off so it doesn't penetrate into the core of the shaft just barely into the surface and it too dries in a few minutes. I've never tried alcohol with a Magic Eraser but I don't see why it would be a problem.

However, raising and sanding off the grain with water is actually a benefit to the pool player. Once the grain is raised and sanded, you are removing fibers that swell with moisture, so the the tendancy is for the fibers not to raise again. This means sweat from your hands won't roughen up the shaft as easily.

These steps are not only meant to clean the shaft, but they are meant to burnish and seal the wood to keep it smooth.

Chris
 
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jimmyc

Registered
Very good information; thanks. The question goes back to the Bible (Exodus, I think): how to get the shaft clean without ending up with a toothpick.
 

CocoboloCowboy

Cowboys are my hero's
Silver Member
I do not want to Hi Jack this thread either, but I use Cue Wax on my Shafts, it SEAL EM. Plus keep the Sweat & Dirt off of the Shafts.. It is just a Good Quality CARNUBA WAX.
 

TATE

AzB Gold Mensch
Silver Member
I do not want to Hi Jack this thread either, but I use Cue Wax on my Shafts, it SEAL EM. Plus keep the Sweat & Dirt off of the Shafts.. It is just a Good Quality CARNUBA WAX.

Hi Cowboy,

Carnuba wax definitely protects and seals the shaft, but some players don't like the feel, myself included.

Chris
 

pocketpared

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If you let your shafts dry overnight...

If you let your shafts dry overnight you can eliminate step 3, the sandpaper, and go directly to burnishing. Shaft still comes out like glass.

ps if your shafts are sealed the old fashioned way with a mixture of shellac and mineral oil, alcohol will dissolve the shellac and remove this.
 
Last edited:

TATE

AzB Gold Mensch
Silver Member
If you let your shafts dry overnight you can eliminate step 3, the sandpaper, and go directly to burnishing. Shaft still comes out like glass.

ps if your shafts are sealed the old fashioned way with a mixture of shellac and mineral oil, alcohol will dissolve the shellac and remove this.

Good information. The bare wood finish is, unfortunately, too open to staining anyway.

I have often wondered if we could come up with an easy finish sealing technique that is not sticky and doesn't involve wax. Maybe repeat coats of sanding sealer and pumice would do the trick, or something like that.

If a shaft could be properly sealed (and still feel good when bridging) it would be so much easier to clean.

Chris
 

ridewiththewind

&#9829; Hippie Hustler &#9829;
Silver Member
Chris, can using rubbing alcohol instead of water harm your shafts? I've been using the Magic Eraser for years when my shafts get super dirty, but I use rubbing alcohol because it dries faster. I always thought there was a chance of warping your shafts if you just use water, but I've never been sure.

I have tried it both ways, using water and using just alcohol...and oddly, I found the ME more effective when using water. Just my personal experience...I cannot abide a sticky shaft either.

Lisa
 
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